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Scott Bonesteel

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Posts posted by Scott Bonesteel

  1. Check the firewall for a data plate on the driver's side. HC prefix is a 33, KC is 34. If it says KCL, then it was a long chassis 34. From the looks of that hood and what can be seen of the frame, it might be a bigger truck chassis, which used the same cab. Data plate would have a different prefix.

  2. I actually had a very similar piece a few years ago. Almost exact, except the angel was in a slightly different position. Mine was a mass, memorial service for fallen pilots in WW1. I believe it dated 1916. If I had to place a educated guess, I would say yours was probably cut down to accommodate a frame. There are people who could authenticate this further but they are a bit pricey. It does look authentic to me, just from the pictures shown.

    Interesting. It is not a repro, clearly an original lithograph on very thin paper, mounted forever ago. I put it in the current frame and mats but did not cut it down from the way I found it, in a very narrow, obviously period frame and glass. No lettering on it anywhere. Again, I just love the image and the colors are like new, must have been away from the light forever. Thanks for the info!

  3. Tom--

    OK, keeping in mind that I have my fuel and brake lines run inside of the frame rails for safety, my 34 PE convertible frame is otherwise completely original. Starting from the center of the X-member and running back to the frame rail, each side has 6 holes but they are different from side to side. The 'port' side (driver side here in the states) holes are 3", 3 1/2", 3", 3", 3", 2 1/2", front to back. The 'starboard' (passenger side here in the states) holes are 3", 3", 3", 2", 2", 2 1/2", front to back. As you can see from the attached photos, the 2" holes are where the frame has a notch for the exhaust pipe clearance. I am not sure why there is one hole bigger on the other side, this is actually the first time I have noticed that. Looks like your passenger side does not have the notch for the exhaust pipe. Checked my 34 PE sedan and 34 Dodge DRXX coupe and they both have this notch. Hope this helps. SMB

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  4. The number on the firewall is the body number which is different from the serial number which should be on the door post. And both are different from the engine number which is on the block just above the generator.

    But in this case the body number answers the question: Your car body PD2745CC is the 1745th Convertible Coupe of the PD engineering code to be built. (They used sequential numbers for each body style starting with 1001.) PD is one of the engineering codes for Plymouths built in 1933, the one sold under the name of "Deluxe Six". So your car, at least the body, is a '33. That tubular front axle is also characteristic of the '33 models as well as the shape of the front fenders so it is very likely a '33 frame too.

    In addition, side splash aprons with the access hole at the rear, 33 not 34; passenger door with no hole for the lock below the handle, 33 not 34; wheels, hood, fenders all 33 not 34. Nice looking 33 though.

  5. I think that catch and lock assembly is the most complicated part on the entire 34 Mopar line. I have rebuilt window frames on the 34 PE Plymouths I have and I am almost glad that my 34 Dodge coupe is a DRXX without the vent windows. Real pain. Be very careful with re-installing them in the window frames because they are held in with those through-body rivets and the pot metal of which the assembly is made is very prone to cracking (although from the pictures, yours look fairly solid). Continuing to enjoy your progress and envious of your skill set.

  6. I saw it as well. Have been playing with 33-34 Mopars for years and this is a nice one. Looks like it has all of the window garnishes (which are becoming impossible to find) and is a good solid car. No more room in my garage but somebody should grab this one. Note that while the listing was corrected to a 1934 in the body of the listing, the heading had it as a 1933.

  7. Tom--There is a wood stringer mounted underneath the body that sits on top of the frame, with small rectangular spacers of body webbing at the body bolts. Wood is made of full 1 1/2" thick stock (4 cm to y'all) and has a taper at the front and various cutouts to match with the bottom of the body contour. The three attached photos are of the stringer in place underneath my PE convertible, looking from about mid-body towards the rear of the car (just the one wood stringer, not the plywood you can see, that is on top of my body dolly). The other two photos are of a single stringer out of the car. These are available from a couple of people in the states, I think most easily from an outfit called the House of Tops in our Pacific northwest. SMB

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  8. Thanks for your replies, Scott your entry higher up the thread makes much more sense now, do you feel that it might be easier to find 35/36 rims and hub caps as I have neither. I do have a surplus of 33's but they are wrong for the 34 project, think there could be 3 spare once I've sorted the 6 I need for the PD. Thanks again.
    I think it would be easier to find 35-36 rims, which are also 16". The center recessed area on the 34's doesn't easily drain water as does the 35-6 rims so when you do find 34 rims, they are more frequently rusted out than the 35-6. My experience is that the 35-6 wheels and caps are easier to find, no question about that. I think the rims may have been marketed to other commercial uses as well, for example I remember in the 1970s all of the local commercial skylight companies had them on their light trucks/trailers. As I indicated in my other posts, with the exception of the stripe on the cap being closer to the center on the 35-6 than on the 34, they look basically the same. I will shoot you later today a photo of my 34 convertible, which I have 35-6 rims on with 35-6 caps, simply because of my experience with 34 rims cracking and bending. If you really wanted to sneak up on people, run 35-6 rims, 35-6 caps and re-skin the caps with 34 skins. Haven't tried it (yet) but I bet it would work. You would have to look REALLY close to tell they are 35-6 rims (there is a VERY small indented recess visible on the 35-6 with the caps on that is there to allow one to insert a screwdriver or other tool into to pry off the cap that is not on the 34s).
  9. I think I have confused myself with the correct wheel rims for a PE can you please confirm which is correct, I only ask because in a recent post on the Dodge forum oval hole artilleries were offered for sale.

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]300343[/ATTACH]16" x 4" hub 5 holes 4 1/2" PCD [ATTACH=CONFIG]300344[/ATTACH]

    Appreciate your comments, I will be needing 5x at some time, thanks

    Wheel on the left is a 35-36 Plymouth. Wheel on the right is a 35 Dodge. The Plymouth wheel you have a photo of is missing the clips to hold the 35-36 style hubcaps on. The 34 artillery wheel center is actually two pieces sandwiched together, whereas the 35-36 is a single piece. My experience with the 34 rims is that they are prone to bend and also often crack around the lug holes. You could run 35-36 rims and with the caps on you cannot tell the difference except that the stripe on the 35 caps is closer to the center than on the 34. Attached photo is a 34 wheel without the cap on it. As you can see, the 34 hubcap snaps into a hole in the outer piece of the wheel center, via clips on the hubcap. As above, the 35-36 wheels have the clips on the wheel itself. Also attached is an original factory blueprint of a 34 hubcap so you can see how the clips are on the cap itself.

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  10. Does the vacuum hose get split along it's length and wrapped around the metal shaft or does the metal shaft get removed somehow to slide the vacuum hose on?

    It has been a very long time since I did mine but I do recall I did not split the hose, just drove the shaft out with a punch. If it slips when you put it back in, you can probably carefully crimp the bracket until it grips or hit the end of the shaft with a prick punch, which should expand it enough to lock it in place. Or, epoxy it in place.

  11. I have never seen any protection used on the brake line going through these two formed holes. Quarter inch line is pretty stiff so if you locate the line in the center of the hole, it probably won't move. On the gas line on the passenger side (which is also run down the outside of the frame rail--not a good idea if you ask me) spring wrap is used to protect the line up by where it might be hit by stones thrown up by the front tires. I suppose that could be used on the couple of inches of brake line that runs through the frame or use my usual favorite, a short piece of gas or vacuum hose, slipped over the line and positioned right in the hole.

  12. OK, I have to remember my brain is getting old... . All of the above is correct except the front brake line when it comes off of the master cylinder does NOT go inside the frame rail, it just snakes through the engine compartment directly to the T mounted on the driver side angle brace, coming into the center hole. The front hole goes to the passenger side and the rear hole on the T goes to the driver side, as described above. All of the rest of the above is correct. Attached are some photos from the original installation on my 34 DRXX coupe, which is identical to the 34 PE, at least according to the parts book and according to the 3 34PEs I have owned. The photos show the engine compartment routing, the front T on the frame angle brace, the run down the outside of the driver side frame rail (looking forward) and the bracket at the rear cross-member where the hose to the rear end attaches. The illustrations are from the 34 Plymouth Maintenance Manual. Hope all of this helps.

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  13. The 34s all have wood stringers under the body and on top of the frame rails. There are small rubber-impregnated fibre rectangular pads under each of the body bolts, between the wood and the frame rails. These rubber pads are also under the front bolts (where there is no stringer) and under the rear couple of bolts (from the top of the wheel well back) where there also is no wood stringer. Rubber is about two inches wide and about 3 1/2 inches long.

  14. '34 PE brake lines are all 1/4". I have some photos of the original installation that I will pull up and shoot your way with some cuts from the '34 Plym service manual. Brake lines were 'T'd' off the front of the master cylinder and then run inside the frame rail a short way and then outside of the frame rails via the blister-type hole in the outside frame rail. The line is clipped to the outside of the rail and then re-enters the inside of the frame rail by the front mount for the rear spring, through a similar blister hole in the outside frame rail. It then runs through the inside of the frame back to the rear cross-member, where it drops down to the rear end via a hose. There is a steel strap bracket attached to the rear cross-member that serves as an attachment point for the hose. On the front, the line runs through the inside of the frame rail and exits up by the steering box where it goes into the brass T mounted on the inside of the frame angle brace running from the side rail to the front cross-member. From there, one line runs back into the inside of the frame (between the angle brace and the driver side frame rail), where it ties into the inside of the brass hose bracket that protrudes through the outside frame rail and provides the connection point for the driver side front brake hose. Going back to the T, the other line runs along the inside edge of the front cross member (attached with two clips) and over to the brass hose bracket for the passenger side hose, a mirror image of the driver side.

  15. ok so there are two rollers. One you can't remove and one you can. the one you can sits up in the air when mounted and covered by the garnish mould or is it mounted inside the opening and all you see is the screw heads and a bit of the roller.

    They probably used the vaccum rubber hose in the old days. Great suggestion.

    Exactly. Roller attaches with sheet metal screws on TOP of the inside door panel, with the roller and shaft hanging down. See attached the one on my 34 PE (with the vacuum hose!).post-89602-143143001472_thumb.jpg

  16. I has a brainstorm after reading your posts about reflective insides of the tail light. I was working on my low voltage outdoor lighting and replacing Dichroic Halogen globes with LED and the spotlights have a reflective cone I have to remove to the LED's will fit.

    I got this cone and ground the opening with my Dremel tool and it seems to fit well. I may have to shave a bit off the rim when it goes inside the housing but overall looks ok.

    Also picked up the front window frames from the electroplater yesterday. I have two roller buffers that seem to align up with the holes in the frame. Can anyone confirm that these attach to the front door window frames ??

    Had a little visitor on our deck handrail. The Kookaburra's are looking for food.

    Cheers

    Ian

    Looks like those reflectors will work great! Certainly better than my old Christmas lights ones, although those worked pretty well. On the roller, that does not attach to the frames, it attaches to the door itself, outside of the window frame, and serves as a roller against the vertical divider between the vent window and the main window. When I get home tonight I will shoot you a picture of the installation. SMB

  17. Dave--I don't think those brackets are for a 34 sedan. The rack and some of the brackets are correct but below the first set of arms that bracket would require two penetrations on each side through the gas tank apron. On my 34 PE sedan (and all of the other 34 Plymouth sedans, 2-dr and 4-dr, the bracket is a big casting for each side with a vertical post that bolts through the bottom to the two 'ears' mounted on the rear of the rear cross member--the same ears where the 34 rear spare tire bracket is bolted up through the bottom (which is different than the 33 spare bracket, which is bolted directly to the rear cross-member, the bolts running horizontally, back to front, instead of up through the bottom). There is then a 'V' bracket of two adjustable rods that run from those vertical posts up to the small bracket up further on top of the rear cross member, at the same point where the single support shaft bolts for the rear spare. See the attached photos of my 34 PE sedan rack, showing the brackets (sorry for all the sawdust all over everything, I had just been running my saw in the garage... .) The other photo is of a spare rack I have with a set of the posts.

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  18. On the 34 DRXX have been collecting pieces and parts (water pump, brake parts, etc.) before I take a run at getting it back on the road. Managed to find a set of headlight lenses and reflectors (it had an ugly sealed beam conversion on it when I bought it, thankfully they didn't damage the shells when they installed it) and now it looks much better up front. Tied up right now getting the engine and trans back in the finished chassis on my PE convertible right now, so that has taken precedence. Plus, as you know, I still have to go to work! Good to hear from you, hope all is well with you and CN.

  19. It is amazing how much just a little bit will help brighten those tail lights. Here in the states, Ron Francis and other suppliers have what they call 'bright bulbs' that put out significantly more CP than the originals, even with 6 volts. I originally put tin foil in mine on my 34 PE sedan and then got some of those reflectors that used to be put behind Christmas lights and used them for years. Finally painted the insides with reflective silver paint. Easy to see now. SMB

  20. Dave--Take a look at my response to Aadams90 in response to his question in the thread 33/34 roadster, from about a week ago. Set forth the differences there with a couple of pictures. Plymouth in 33 and 34 did not make a roadster in the states and called its cabriolet-type car a 'convertible coupe' as ply33 notes. See attached pages from the 34 Plymouth sales brochure.

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