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Scott Bonesteel

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Posts posted by Scott Bonesteel

  1. OK, every once in awhile something strikes me, this time it was the bidding and sale of a pair of 34 PE Plymouth convertible coupe window frames.  These are the fairly rare ones with the integral vent windows and the mechanism for the 'dual operation', with and without the vents.  Granted, this is only the second set I have seen (bought the first set for my PE) and they are probably impossible to fabricate, but by the time the dust settled, with each part being in a separate auction, the total for the door channels, top window frames and lower window channels was just short of $6000.00.  Somebody must have a bottomless restoration budget.  Wow.

    34pewindow frame.jpg

    34pewindow channel.jpg

  2. To some extent I agree with GregLaR that either fog or running lights look odd/overkill on a simple Plymouth--which is true, IMHO, of any car that is 'over-accessorized', a look that a friend of mine used to describe as a car that drove through Pep Boys with a magnet attached.  Despite this, I have always run Super 7 Fog Lamps on my 34 PE Plymouth (photo attached) as it has a fairly fancy look anyway, 4-dr sedan with dual sidemounts and trunk rack.  I simply wired them with dual filament bulbs and use them as running lights/turn signals, which, again IMHO, look period and better than modern turn signals mounted on the bumper/bumper brackets.  I have a set of similar lamps that are going to go on my 34 PE Plymouth convertible when completed, again to serve the purpose of turn signals.  They don't help to see the road better but certainly help others know when I am planning on turning.


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  3. Tom, keep in mind that a 35 ship won't fit a 34 shell.  Look similar but lots of differences.  Biggest difference is that the front of the 35 fits into the stainless trim on the sides of the grille, while the 34--even on the later series with the stainless trim around the grille--sits up above, independent of the grille trim.  Maybe you just want a shelf ornament, but thought I would point that out.

  4. Lot of good points raised by the comments.  Having run both stock brakes and a front disc conversion, there is no question that there are numerous ways that a front disc conversion can go wrong and it is much more complicated than it seems:  wheel clearance on the disc calipers; need for a combination valve and residual pressure valves; master cylinder sizing; room for the vacuum booster, etc.  I have found that, despite all the trouble, a disc conversion, if done right, stops better.  However, most stock hydraulic brake systems (bounced my Model A with mechanical brakes off the curb numerous times to slow it down, but I am sure the clevis connections were worn out...) work just fine.  A good middle ground, that avoids the 'non-stock'/future sales issues is to simply replace the stock master cylinder, which is typically a single reservoir, with a dual master cylinder designed for a drum/drum combination.  Depending upon the subject vehicle, it may bolt right up to the cylinder mount or a simple adaptor plate can be machined to change a 3-bolt to a 2-bolt mount.  Make sure the cylinder size and plunger depth are correct and you can split the front and rear brake systems for an added safety factor--requires splitting the brake lines but (1) you would probably be replacing them anyway, and (2) easy to return to stock.  As the above comments point out, make sure the remainder of the system is in good shape--properly adjusted, good non-fluid soaked shoes, leak free--and the stock brake system should work fine on most vehicles. 

  5. You have my sympathies.  I am 6'3", 285# and, thankfully,  my 34 PE Plymouth has an adjustable seat.  When I installed it, I 'cheated' it back about 1".  Also, the seat frame has multiple holes in which to install the seat tracks so it can be adjusted backwards and forwards.  I suppose the alternative is what is somewhat bluntly known as a 'fatman' steering wheel... .


  6. OK, it took me more than a day or two but here are some photos of a 34 or an 'early 35' KC  pickup (express) suicide door (the one with the Dr. Pepper logo), side by side with a 33 Dodge sedan door, which also fits the 33-34-early 35 KCL panels.  You can see the unique upper rear corner of the express doors which are rounded instead of squared off.  As best I can tell, the hinge configuration and spacing is the same.  Hinges are located, centerline, at 7 1/2" and 38" from the lower rear corner of the door.  SMB 







  7. OK, I think we have proof that this is an 'aftermarket' change.  Your photo of the top, driver side hinge (where you can see the screw and bracket from the rear view mirror) shows that the 'shroud' around the hinge is on backwards.  That shroud should be on the front side of the hinge, with the 'open' side of the hinge to the rear.  See my express door photo on a prior post and the black 34 PE convertible photographed below--different body style but the hinge shroud configuration is the same, clearest picture I could pull out of my files on short notice.


  8. Interesting.  I would pull one of the door panels to look at the inside of the belt line at the front of the door where the door handle hole is on the normal suicide doors.  I doubt that anyone would go to the trouble to metal finish the inside of the belt line even if they filled the handle hole.

    Attached is a photo of the upper rear corner of a passenger side suicide door actually off of an express (rounded corner, unlike the passenger doors, commercial sedan and commercial panel doors, which are squared off.  Gives you some idea of where the upper hinge would be on a standard suicide door.


  9. OK, I also just noticed this:  Your sheet lists a build date of March 35--which does not match what the parts books show for the serial number runs.  Again, the more you know... .    ;-)   SMB

  10. OK, I have a fairly extensive collection of 34-35 KC and KCL materials that I have put together over the years to assist in the restoration of my late 34 KCL panel.  These include the "Dodge Parts List 1934 and 1935 Model Series, Trucks Built from January 1934 to June 1935", issued June 15, 1935 (Publication D-3416), as well as the "Dodge Trucks Parts List 1935 Model Series, Trucks Built After June 1935", issued September 1, 1935 (Publication D-3553).  These list serial numbers starting January 1934 at 8023001, with those built after June 1935 beginning at 8048701, this latter series including your express.

    The instrument panel change to the 3 round gauges came at 8045676.

    The earlier parts book (up to June 1935) lists a "Roof assembly--complete" for the KC cab, Part #546588, but nothing for any other type of top or any reference to anything but the early type, 'suicide doors'.  The June 1935 and later book shows a completely new cab number beginning at 8057966, with the new, front-hinged doors and nothing regarding a roof insert of any type.  Looks like there is a gap here, which is where your express falls.

    I think I have just about every piece of advertising that covers the trucks and commercial cars in this 34-35 time frame and I have never seen a truck like yours, i.e., old style cab with roof insert but fitted with the new, front-hinged doors.  The 3/1/35 Ross Roy comparative book on Dodge trucks and commercial cars shows the old series truck and notes its 'French-type top insert'.  However, I have a 7/35 folder with individual sheets on the various Dodge trucks, including the express, showing the new express with the front-hinged doors. (It is unclear from the document, but it may be an export document, although it is in English).  Same with a large, folding color brochure (Publication K-30 from 5/35) that shows the earlier doors on the commercial sedan, panel and various other vehicles--with the express being the only one with the new style cab and doors.  Again, nothing, including the larger series trucks, with the old style cab and the new style doors.

    My best guesses are (1)some sort of factory prototype or transitional model, (2)some sort of export model--although my parts books do call out export parts, or (3)somebody's handiwork, post-manufacturing, although I think that would be obvious upon examination of the A and B pillars of the truck at the door jambs.

    Interesting mystery.  The more you know the less you realize you know... .  SMB 

  11. Couple of quick questions before I hit my parts books:  Do you have the '34 style dash with the squared off instrument cluster in the center?  Or is it of the 3 round gauge type?  What does your firewall data plate say, if it is there?

  12. If you are in San Diego (as I am), sign up for the event in Vista, first Sunday in August.  About 300 cars show up and they close up the old downtown streets.  While they call it the Vista 'Rod Run', lots of restored and lightly modified cars show up.  Good family event and opportunity to swap stories with owners.  Contact the Vista Village Association to sign up.  I will have your 33's cousin, my 34 PE four-door sedan, with side mounts, in attendance and would be glad to talk Mopar with you.  SMB



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  13. Folks above are correct:  The front doors on the truck cabs 'taper in' at the bottom, so the lower hinge is longer.  The parts book for the 34 truck, KC cab (which, as far as the doors are concerned, is the same as the 33 HC, which is NOT true of the passenger car doors between those two years), lists different numbers for the two hinges:  399073 for the upper hinge assembly (right side) and 399079 for the lower hinge assembly (right side).  Note that it also appears that there were some changes to the upper hinge assembly number, depending upon when the cab was made.  SMB

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  14. Cover is for a rear spare only, 1934, I believe.  That year the tire valve door came both ways, both horizontal and vertical.  Hubcap is a 34, the 35 and 36 cap was more domed and had the stripe closer to the center of the cap.  All of the 35s I have seen over the years had a single bolt in the center to hold the cover to the mount.  The 34 has the 2-piece cover, with the center 'extension' piece that sticks out.  I know there is a difference in the width of the chrome strip around the outside of the cover but have never determined which is correct for a 34.  The strip on 34 side mount covers is certainly the wider type.  Nice cover.

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  15. OK, not sure where you are located but my ultimate source for keys and locks and all things related is ABC Lock, Key and Lawnmower Repair Shop on 30th in San Diego, CA.  Old time lock and key shop that has been there forever and has, I believe, everything (bent 30s Omega keys, Ford decklid keys that formed the handle, etc., etc.)  See attached photo, this is the smaller of the walls they have covered with stock.  Good luck.  SMB

    ABC LOCK KEY.jpg

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  16. Agree with JayG's comment about UHaul not being willing to rent the trailers if the tow vehicle doesn't have the power/brakes to handle the towed load, which is just good sense for all concerned.  I have towed all of my 34 Mopars at one time or another on UHaul car trailers without problem.  You might figure out what weighs about the same as your 36 but is more recent vintage because they have in the past asked me what I was towing and their book doesn't go back into the 30s.  I also always bring a couple of extra tie-down straps with a ratchet.  While they have front wheel straps and chains for the rear end, a little extra security helps.  When I towed my 34 Dodge coupe a couple of years ago  I used the straps to  pull the rear down tight, which kept it from working on the Dodge suspension (since it is already on the trailer suspension) and the tow, down twisty Pacific Coast Highway in Northern California, was a lot smoother.  Final note:  they have stopped putting winches on the front of these trailers, even the hand-crank type, so make sure you have some extra bodies to push your truck up on the trailer if it is not running.  Bottom line, UHaul has always been an easy, efficient way to get my cars around when they needed to be trailered. 




  17. Tom--The shocks in your photographs, #s 1460 K3E and 1460 J3E, are listed in my parts book as fitting a 33 PC.  For the PD they show a similar number but K4E and J4E.  SMB

  18. Tom--Just in case it might help in the search, my parts book shows "Vendor No. 1441A1G" for the Right rear and "Vendor No. 1441B1G" for the Left rear.  I assume those are the Delco Lovejoy numbers because they use that type of number/letter designation and there is no Mopar number--which would typically be a 6XXXXX type number.  Note that the PF and PG use the same shock as one another but it is NOT the same as the number for the PE, which is not surprising because the PE has a bigger frame than the PF and PG--6" versus 5" if I remember correctly.  SMB

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