[Another "Holy Grail" car heading to Auction, 1962 Ferrari GTO.]

8 hours ago, Gunsmoke said:

I see on Hemmings daily feed that a rare event is about to occur, a 1962 Ferrari GTO is set to head to the auction block in November, and not just any such car (of 36 produced), but the only Scuderia Ferrari Factory raced one of these cars. For over 30 years I've had a 1/18" diecast model of this car that may be my favorite car of all time, and I expect the car will challenge the record books when the hammer falls. $100M, more, less?  

My tastes run more towards early to mid-1930s cars, which for the most part are much more affordable.  However, say what you want, that is one sexy SOB.

[1934 Plymouth Dodge Chrysler Convertible Coupe Window Channels]

Have reached the stage where I am installing the roll up window frames on my 34 Plymouth PE convertible coupe.  As many of you know, these convertibles have the typical 34 Mopar 'dual function' window frames where the window rolls up and down with the regulator handle and the wind wing operates with a separate knob.  When a lever is thrown on the frame, the entire assembly, including the vent, rolls down into the door.  On the closed cars, the edge of the window frame assembly is formed to fit into standard window felts.  However, the convertibles have a frame that is squared off and has rollers that run on some sort of window channels.  My 34 PE was removed from a ditch and while it had most of the rare, convertible only parts, the window channels inside of the doors had been removed.  I anticipate that they were some sort of square metal channel that would accept the frame as it rolls down into the door but I question whether it was coated with something to reduce what I anticipate would be a metallic noise of the metal (although they appear to be bronze) rollers running on them.  A photo of a 34 PE window frame assembly is attached hereto.

 

Somebody out there must have a 34 Mopar convertible that has these channels in place and can shoot me a photo or two of what they look like.  I have the skills to fabricate but would like to know generally how they are constructed.  It also goes without saying that if anybody has a spare set, I would be interested in purchasing.  Thanks for your help.

[41 Dodge Flat6 dual exhaust/ split headers ?]

Try searching for Fenton split headers, made for these Mopar flatheads at one time.

[Running lights as blinkers]

As discussed on a recent, similar forum exchange, what I believe works best is to use period fog lamps for front running lights/turn signals.  My 34 Plymouth PE sedan runs 1937 Super units with yellow bulbs behind yellow stock lenses--very bright and easy to see.

[looking for a source of rubber exhaust hanger strap material]

8 hours ago, Str8-8-Dave said:

Ebay

 

1 2x2 Anti Vibration Noise Reducing Pad Heavy Duty Rubber Washing Machine Gyms 685650082752 | eBay

Dave, thanks for this reference.  This is a perfect match for the original body-to-frame rail mounting pads on my various Mopars.  

[Lost brakes, almost crashed the Cord!]

Where you 'stop' is before you run into anything... .  My modification to my Plymouth is just as you describe, can be returned to stock with a couple of wrenches.

[Lost brakes, almost crashed the Cord!]

Thank goodness you were able to avoid what would have been a catastrophe, both for vehicle damage and for potential personal injury.  One 'solution' that has not been mentioned is what Detroit came up with some time ago, that being a dual master cylinder for hydraulic brakes, i.e., a separate hydraulic line system for the front and rear.  I understand we all try to keep our vehicles as original as possible but I believe this is akin to seat belts, turn signals, etc., as a crucial safety feature.  This can be done with minimal changes to the vehicle. On my '34 Plymouth I kept the original pedal cluster, pedal and push rod and made a 2-bolt to 3-bolt adaptor plate to run a dual master in the exact location as the original, single master cylinder.  The line coming off of the original master usually has a T-fitting, splitting the fluid between the front and the rear.  Using that connection point, simply split the lines so they are fed with the dual master and you have a braking system that will still be there sufficiently to stop the vehicle even if a hose/line/fitting/wheel cylinder on one end or the other completely blows out.  When selecting a new dual master, make sure you have one that was designed for drum/drum systems instead of drum/disc systems for best performance, keeping in mind also master cylinder bore size to provide sufficient fluid/hydraulic 'leverage' to your wheel cylinders.

[Garage Music?]

Lots of different types, from rock n roll to classical, but my favorite is still 'The Best of Sam and Dave'.  Just the right mix of mellow and R&B to keep me working.

['41 Willys: Why Are They So Expensive?]

See, e.g. Stone Woods & Cook.  Google that if you are looking for Willys coupes.

[Drag link springs???]

Keep in mind that the reason the 34 may be the 'exception' as stated by ply33 is that the 34 is the only one that has the short drag link, connecting to the 'center steer' arm, different from other Plymouths and Dodges.

[Post a picture of your father or grandfathers car..]

Probably a less controversial car/war story, photo of my dad's 41 Buick Super with my mother in the picture, proud of the new, two-tone paint job she had done while my dad was away in the army in 1951.  

[Widow maker - broken fan blades]

On 7/10/2023 at 1:09 PM, Xander Wildeisen said:

I had a 429 in my 1977 F250. Kept breaking fan belts. Long story short, put on the fourth belt. With hood open and increasing RPMs you could see the belt wanting to walk it’s self off. Looking down at the harmonic balancer. The outer  part was separated from the inner hub. And with increased speed, it would move forward and rip off the belt. Caught it about half way off, and shut down the engine. I am sure the outer part of the balancer would go right through the hood.

Separating harmonic balancers are common on Chevy 6s of the early 1960s.  I had a '65 Chevy 194 that I could not get timed correctly. Set the timing mark repeatedly with a timing light and it still ran poorly.  Finally, I ran across a thread somewhere on the web where torn balancers were being discussed, so I simply timed the car 'by ear' and rpm and it ran great--although the timing mark was way off.  Eventually changed out the balancer/dampner and no more problems.  Throwing a fan blade was no problem because I was running only an electric, radiator mounted fan controlled by a temperature relay and the car never overheated.

[The addition of auxiliary tail lamps - yes or no?]

As Paul Dobbin has succinctly put it, if you don't drive them, you might as well collect clocks.  I understand that some of us have a 1919 Raremobile or a 30s, one-off high dollar model wherein originality is the only consideration and driving them in real traffic an infrequent if not rare event.  I drive my cars, in particular my 1934 Plymouth PE sedan.  No one is ever going to mistake it for a concourse restoration but at least to me I think it looks pretty good.  The original look is in no way destroyed or diminished by the way I have protected myself on the road:  1937 vintage Super 7 fog lights on the front that have been wired for running lights and turn signals.  The original, two-filament tail lights, both of them (extra tail light was an available option), I have wired for brake and turn signals.  Only 'non period' addition is a slim, third brake light, mounted on the lower edge of the rear window, which I have powered with an additional hydraulic switch mounted on the rear end junction block for the rear hydraulic brake lines--which gives a very bright brake light and provides a backup brake light if the original hydraulic switch (powering the regular tail/brake lights) were to fail.  Stayed away from the 'billet' types that do look anachronistic an went for one that, while modern, is the least obtrusive.  On my 34 convertible, still in the works, I am using a period 'STOP' light for a third brake light, which looks more appropriate.  Bottom line, take a little time, use period lights if available, and you can get turn signals and brake lights that give us drivers at least a little more of an edge against some of the blockhead drivers that are out there, particularly here in Southern California. 

[Which way do we go. double fronted cars]

I may swing by the Catalina Lounge and see if they have any photos of it there.  I think it has changed hands a couple of times over the years so perhaps not.  Worth a shot.  If nothing else, an excuse to stop into one of the local 'dive bars'.  SMB

[Which way do we go. double fronted cars]

That's right, it was orange.  Wonder where it went to?

[Which way do we go. double fronted cars]

For years there was a two-front-end 1950 Pontiac Catalina parked alongside the Catalina Lounge in San Diego/Point Loma, disappeared sometime in the late 1970s/early 1980s.  Wish I had a photo of it, perhaps Keiser or somebody else with some San Diego history can locate one.

[Anyone know what this is?]

OK, ever since I was a youngster (which was a long time ago) I have had an interest in machinery, much of which was pursued at the knee of my grandfather.  Often times when watching him work on machinery and I would ask 'What is that for?', his response would be "Something to make da_n fools ask questions, and it's working like a charm.'  In any event and despite that experience, I have a pretty good grasp of machinery and its history. This item totally baffles me and, it appears since it has been viewed over 600 times, I am not alone.  Kudos to whomever is finally able to identify it.  At this point my best guess would be a 1920s, steampunk-style attempt to reverse engineer some piece of equipment that was found at a 1920s Area 51 crash site.  Good luck on this one folks.

[For Sale: 1969 Oldsmobile Toronado - Flamingo Silver with Burgundy, "Special Order originally owned by Mary Kay Distributor" - Stanwood, WA - Not Mine - 7/25 & 6/25 Reduced]

Despite the multiple modifications, I actually like the looks of the car--late 60s--early 70s cruizer at its best.  One comment, while a subsequent owner may have removed it, I have NEVER seen a Mary Kay salesperson's car without the "Mary Kay" decal in the back window.

[Antique Car Off Roading Crazyness]

OK, I almost added this to the 'Great Day for a Ride in the Country' string.  This popped up on YouTube, group of crazies from up in Keiser's neighborhood (Oregon) having way too much fun 'off roading' their Model Ts, Model A and '21 Studebaker who then get caught in a torrential downpour and need to get rescued/towed out.  Again, guys having waaay too much fun.

[1934 Plymouth hood & fender scoops]

Certainly a 34 Plymouth PE hood, the scoops are not 34 Plymouth, look more like 36 Dodge.

[Wanted 1934 plymouth door lock cylinder]

PM sent.  SMB

[Wanted 1934 plymouth door lock cylinder]

Busy at work this week, will check Saturday and get back to you.  SMB

[Wanted 1934 plymouth door lock cylinder]

This may not be in thehandleman's ballpark as the 34 Plymouth, unlike the 33 which has the lock in the handle, has a separate lock assembly that goes directly into the door panel.  Hard item to find, almost as hard as the stainless bezel that goes around the lock assembly.  I will dig through my parts and may have the lock assembly but not the bezel, give me a couple of days.  

[1930's Headlight Stands]

1935 Plymouth, not 34.

[American(?) phaeton in Thailand]

Agree that the trunk rack doesn't look like 34 Dodge, badge area at the top is too big and round, I would think it would show the Dodge wings if it was a Dodge rack.  Chrysler logo would be, I believe, an oval shaped badge, what I can see here looks almost round and bigger, similar to a Lincoln grille badge.  Interesting, need some Chrysler pros to weigh in.  Wheels do look more like Dodge to me than at least what I have seen on 34 Chryslers.  Can't blow the photo up with enough resolution to read the hubcap.