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Scott Bonesteel

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Posts posted by Scott Bonesteel

  1. OK, I know I must be missing something obvious here but this one has me stumped.  Looks like 34-36 sedan, single pane rear window, headlights out, but several odd features:  big body belt line, tail lights that look like a later Hudson, both front and rear doors hinged off the B-pillar (suicide fronts), no real rain gutter and doors that run right up into the roof.  This was a two-page spread in this month's (September 2016)  Smithsonian magazine, an article about migrants from the south into the north in the mid-30s.  No caption or identification in the article


  2. 4 hours ago, ply33 said:

    Always seems a shame to plate the whole radiator grill shell and them paint over all be the little raised bead. . . I think the '34 models dealt with that by having a chrome trim piece that attached to the shell.


    Looking great, keep up the good work!

    They did make that change in 34 but only after a fairly significant run done the same way, painting most of the already plated shell.  The change over to the stainless, 4 piece trim (ever try to find the little piece on the bottom?? Near impossible...) also brought about a change in the grille from 37 bars to 35 bars.  In any event, I have always imagined what it would be like to have been in that meeting with the accountants:  "You mean you guys have been plating the whole shell and then painting over most of it?  That has got to stop!!".  Car looking great as always, keep up the nice work.

  3. My memory was correct for once:  Open the vent to 90 degrees and you should be able to see the two screws on the bottom of the frame at the pivot.  Take those out and then rotate the screw plate until it is parallel to the main frame.  You can then just push the bottom of the vent frame out and the top pivot will just drop out.

  4. With those brackets looks like 34 Sedan, matches the one I have on my four door PE exactly.  Not quite sure what that long bar is however.  In addition, there are usually a couple of arms running up forward to the frame as an additional support.  Can't see the brackets clear enough to tell exactly if it is 33 or 34.  Don't think those brackets fit a 32.  While I usually get in trouble for this phrase, I have to say 'Nice rack!".

  5. There actually is a pair of vent window rubbers on ebay right now.  A little pricey but think about how hard it is to make them.  These have been around for years, and I have had the set in my 34 PE sedan for 25 years and they still work/look great.  I think that is the best way to go.  Let me look at mine, I forget exactly how they came out, I know there are two screws that hold the pivot together at the bottom, top just pops out.






  6. In the past I have bought replacement springs for both my 34 PE (rear leafs) and 34 Dodge KCL (front and rear leafs) from Eaton Detroit Springs and they were excellent, perfect match, right rates, etc. A little pricey if I recall but great quality. Don't know if they are still around, it has been awhile since I dealt with them. I seem to recall they had original specs for most old carleaf springs.

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  7. Tom--

    Not much progress on the Dodge coupe, just collecting a few missing parts for the eventual tune up/brake job/etc.  I know is needed before putting it back on the road.  My father is aging and I am pledging to get my 34 PE convertible completed while he can still enjoy it with me, so any spare time I have had has gone into that one, finishing up the frame plumbing, etc.  Still working for a living so that leaves me not a lot of time, but like most of us I do what I can.  Glad to see yours are still progressing.  SMB

  8. Scott:

    Very good info. Can you post pictures? When I get back home (volunteer fire repair @ the Butte fire) I'll post what we have. 

    Thanks for your time.



    These fires are really bad this year. A hole town was consumed by fire. Pray for our fir fighters and victims.

    Dave--Would be glad to post whatever I can that would be helpful.  If there is one particular item in my long winded post about HCL/KCL wheels that someone would like posted, let me know.  Here is a 34-35 with the tapered end bumper and just a random pic of a Commercial Panel that, like Lucky Strike Green, has 'gone to war'.  Looks like the military, as would be appropriate, preferred 'artillery' wheels.  For any other photos I will have to wait for the weekend because of work this week.  Take care with those fires up there Dave. 



  9. OK, went through my literature collection on the 33-first series 35 Dodge Commercial Sedans and Panels.  I think the safest assumptions about wheels are as follows:  33 had wires but others were optional; 34 had wires but others were optional; first series 35 had artillery wheels.  I base those assumptions on mainly the following three Dodge sales brochures, but this information is consistent with other sales literature I have: 


    --January 1933 Form No. CI, Commercial Sedan sales brochure.  Doesn't list type of wheels for the standard 5.75/17 tires but clearly they were wires.  Lists "EXTRA EQUIPMENT" as including "600/16 Air Wheel tires with wire, wood or chromium-spoke steel wheels."  While I don't have any literature from 1933 that shows pictures of the "chromium-spoke steel wheels", they are pictured on several Commercial Panels with that description in a January 1934 Form K-6 'Dependable Trucks for Department Stores' advertising brochure and they are clearly steel artillery wheels.  I don't have any sales or other literature for HCL Commercial Panels.  I certainly have never seen any and would love to know if they ever existed.


    --April 1934 KC/KCL Form K-8 Commercial Sedan and Panel sales brochure.  Lists standard wheels for the standard 5.75/17 tires as "wire wheels".  Lists "EXTRA EQUIPMENT" as including "600/16 Airwheel tires with wire or chromium-spoke steel wheels".  A somewhat earlier brochure from March 1934 directed at 'Laundries and Dry Cleaners' shows numerous Commercial Panels, all of them with wire wheels.


    --May 1935 KC/KCL Form K-30 Commercial Sedan and Panel sales brochure.  Same "EXTRA EQUIPMENT" as in 1934 but only steel artillery wheels listed as standard.  The Ross Roy Handbook from March 1, 1935 lists for the KCL Panel "five demountable steel artillery wheels"  with the available option of "20-inch steel disc wheels" for "greater road clearance".


    My best guess on the customer's mystery Panel is that it is a 34 KCL or first series 35 KCL, but that is not based on the wheels.  You can just see at the far left edge of the photo the end of the rear bumper and the tip is of the narrowed type found on 34 and 35s, as opposed to the squared off end certainly found on 33 HCLs.  Per the March 1934 'Laundries' brochure listed above, which has on the cover page one of the extremely few photos that show a rear bumper on a KCL Panel, square end bumpers were still around in March 34.  In the customer's photo, far right side, you can see a small portion of the front bumper and it looks, at least to me, to be the 34-35 type bumper, which I think is just slightly narrower than the earlier square end models.  Finally, there simply were many more 34 and 35 KCLs than there ever were of 33 HCLs, so pure numbers indicate KCL rather than HCL.  My $2.95 worth of two cents... .  SMB

  10. I would agree with Dave, not the bigger 1 ton.  The splash aprons on the 1 tons are significantly higher and the truck sits higher.  Fenders across the 33-early 35 are the same.  As to wheels, as above, those are all over the board and I have seen original photos/Dodge advertising with all types, including artillery wheels with 34-style caps on these.  Having researched these for years, this is either a 33 HCL, a 34 KCL or early/'first series' 35 KCL.  The only way to really tell would be to get the serial number (HCL or KCL prefix) or a photo of the dash.  33 HCL and a large number of 34 KCLs have the 33 Dodge car type dash, a single contained unit, squared off ends, located in the center of the dash.  In late 34 the parts books show a production change to what I would call a '35-36' type of dash, with the three individual round gauges located roughly in a triangle in the center of the dash.  This was continued throughout the remainder of 34 and through the 35 KCLs that are 'first series', i.e., with suicide doors.  There is a variance in even those, some having a glove box and some without.  I have not been able to determine what significance, if any, there is to that variance.  Although the truck production numbers are not particularly clear in providing an exact 'year break' in the serial numbers on the KCLs, 34 versus 35, my KCL panel looks like it is a late 34 with the second type dash with round gauges and a glove box.  Attached photos show my KCL (awaiting me finishing my 34 PE...) and photos of the two different types of dashes.  If the customer can recall (at his/her young age) what the dash looked like or can find another photo, then you might be able to dial it in more closely.  Finding ANY of these is not easy.  Have fun! 





  11. I also have in the past used Liquid Wrench with great success.  However, if you have an old can of it lying around, you might want to read about what is in the stuff.  Good product but not something you want to get on or in you.  Couldn't figure out how to paste it but there is a very informative court decision just published from the court in Alameda County, California, David Johnson v. United States Steel Corporation.  It discusses the presence of benzene in Liquid Wrench and how long term exposure (plaintiff tore down engines for a living) can lead to cancers such a leukemia.  Obviously many of the things we all work with in our hobby (asbestos brake linings, etc.) can be harmful and some good common sense is probably sufficient.  However, being informed also doesn't hurt.  Again, I couldn't figure out how to paste a pdf on this site but if you Google the case name you should be able to pull up a copy of the decision.  SMB--OK, figured out how to paste it, see attached

    9-3-15 Johnson v. U.S. Steel Corp. No. A142485.pdf

  12. Numbers don't show in my part books but that is not a surprise.  First and third photos are of a 34 Dodge, Passenger side, with horn wire hole.  Fourth photo is of a 34 Plymouth, also passenger side, without the outside horn wire hole, so could be a PE, PF or PG.  Fifth photo looks like a 33-34-first series 35 Dodge truck or perhaps a 33 passenger car.  Neither of the numbers show in any of my Plymouth or Dodge parts books but they are definitely in the right numerical range for 34 Mopars.

  13. Nice sidemount cover. I would think this was 33 due to the brass trim instead of nickel on the emblem and the stamp you can see on the 4th photo indicating it is for a 525-17 spare. I have a matching one if anybody is interested in putting together a full set. Would have to move the emblem as they are both driver side but that is no big deal. Photo attached.


  14. If it was me, I would slide a wood block between the brace and the inner door panel, drill 2 quarter inch holes in the inner door panel, take the wood block out and clamp it up and plug weld the two of them together with my MIG.  Probably the closest to a spot weld and won't give you another bump in the door panel to transmit through the upholstery.

  15. Ok, Steve as a follow-up to the above, I went through and looked at my spare set and at the one in my 34 PE sedan (which is the same as the one in Chris' photo above, with the riveted edges), my 34 PE convertible (which is the one shown in the earlier photos I posted above) and the ones on my 34 Dodge DRXX coupe. The PE sedan is an early model (about the 200th unit out of the Los Angeles plant) so I would assume it is the closest to your 33 PD. It does have a tapered wood block but it was toast when I got the sedan so I replaced it and as installed I can't get a measurement on it. The PE convertible and the DRXX both have a slightly different unit (as shown in my earlier pictures) with a square track unit and a flat block underneath as opposed to tapered. In any event, the dimensions are as follows: WOOD BLOCK, 1 1/8" wide, full 1/4" thick, 12 1/2" long, oak. Holes are for 5/16 NC bolts on 11 3/8" centers. TRACKS: 2" wide, 15/16" thick, 12 1/4" long. If you are mounting up your seat I assume you would have something about 1 3/16" thick, bolted to the bottom of the seat frame. You can see the different handles here, the black cast one (similar to Chris' broken one) on the riveted early unit, the nickel knob on the 34 PE (both my spare and the one in my convertible) and the 'ring' type in the 34 DRXX. The DRXX is the latest one, note the connecting link has been turned perpendicular to the floor, while all of the others are parallel to the floor. SMB






  16. Chris--Maybe this will help.  These pictures are from the inside passenger door of a 33 Plymouth convertible coupe, the one that provided the window frames I sent you.  The top is connected with two round-head screws as shown in your diagram.  Although the inside door panel has been cut away, you can see the remnants of what looks like two rivets, one on each of the outside ribs of the supporting piece, that look like they were installed about 1/2" above where the cut is, at the door panel bead.  Looking for the inside door panel but can't seem to find it.  SMB





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