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Scott Bonesteel

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Posts posted by Scott Bonesteel

  1. I also have in the past used Liquid Wrench with great success.  However, if you have an old can of it lying around, you might want to read about what is in the stuff.  Good product but not something you want to get on or in you.  Couldn't figure out how to paste it but there is a very informative court decision just published from the court in Alameda County, California, David Johnson v. United States Steel Corporation.  It discusses the presence of benzene in Liquid Wrench and how long term exposure (plaintiff tore down engines for a living) can lead to cancers such a leukemia.  Obviously many of the things we all work with in our hobby (asbestos brake linings, etc.) can be harmful and some good common sense is probably sufficient.  However, being informed also doesn't hurt.  Again, I couldn't figure out how to paste a pdf on this site but if you Google the case name you should be able to pull up a copy of the decision.  SMB--OK, figured out how to paste it, see attached

    9-3-15 Johnson v. U.S. Steel Corp. No. A142485.pdf

  2. Numbers don't show in my part books but that is not a surprise.  First and third photos are of a 34 Dodge, Passenger side, with horn wire hole.  Fourth photo is of a 34 Plymouth, also passenger side, without the outside horn wire hole, so could be a PE, PF or PG.  Fifth photo looks like a 33-34-first series 35 Dodge truck or perhaps a 33 passenger car.  Neither of the numbers show in any of my Plymouth or Dodge parts books but they are definitely in the right numerical range for 34 Mopars.

  3. Nice sidemount cover. I would think this was 33 due to the brass trim instead of nickel on the emblem and the stamp you can see on the 4th photo indicating it is for a 525-17 spare. I have a matching one if anybody is interested in putting together a full set. Would have to move the emblem as they are both driver side but that is no big deal. Photo attached.


  4. If it was me, I would slide a wood block between the brace and the inner door panel, drill 2 quarter inch holes in the inner door panel, take the wood block out and clamp it up and plug weld the two of them together with my MIG.  Probably the closest to a spot weld and won't give you another bump in the door panel to transmit through the upholstery.

  5. Ok, Steve as a follow-up to the above, I went through and looked at my spare set and at the one in my 34 PE sedan (which is the same as the one in Chris' photo above, with the riveted edges), my 34 PE convertible (which is the one shown in the earlier photos I posted above) and the ones on my 34 Dodge DRXX coupe. The PE sedan is an early model (about the 200th unit out of the Los Angeles plant) so I would assume it is the closest to your 33 PD. It does have a tapered wood block but it was toast when I got the sedan so I replaced it and as installed I can't get a measurement on it. The PE convertible and the DRXX both have a slightly different unit (as shown in my earlier pictures) with a square track unit and a flat block underneath as opposed to tapered. In any event, the dimensions are as follows: WOOD BLOCK, 1 1/8" wide, full 1/4" thick, 12 1/2" long, oak. Holes are for 5/16 NC bolts on 11 3/8" centers. TRACKS: 2" wide, 15/16" thick, 12 1/4" long. If you are mounting up your seat I assume you would have something about 1 3/16" thick, bolted to the bottom of the seat frame. You can see the different handles here, the black cast one (similar to Chris' broken one) on the riveted early unit, the nickel knob on the 34 PE (both my spare and the one in my convertible) and the 'ring' type in the 34 DRXX. The DRXX is the latest one, note the connecting link has been turned perpendicular to the floor, while all of the others are parallel to the floor. SMB






  6. Chris--Maybe this will help.  These pictures are from the inside passenger door of a 33 Plymouth convertible coupe, the one that provided the window frames I sent you.  The top is connected with two round-head screws as shown in your diagram.  Although the inside door panel has been cut away, you can see the remnants of what looks like two rivets, one on each of the outside ribs of the supporting piece, that look like they were installed about 1/2" above where the cut is, at the door panel bead.  Looking for the inside door panel but can't seem to find it.  SMB





  7. KCL is right, what you see in the photos that looks like sheet metal is actually a thick felt strip that is tacked to the plywood and folded over the corner where it drops into the sheet metal floor to stop squeaks and probably wind-proof the seam.  Will send you some measurements and close up photos this weekend.  SMB

  8. Then again, I have to think back to when I bought my first 34 Plymouth, a 34 PE 4-door sedan, in 1973.  Nobody wanted it because it wasn't a 34 Ford.  Didn't matter that it was dual-sidemount, trunk rack, dual horn equipped (and all of it still there).  The 34 PE convertible I am building now is built from the remnants of 3 separate cars which 'serious restorers' didn't want because they were too far gone (attached is a photo of one of them, which contributed its top irons, rumble seat lid, etc.).  In short, while I agree with the criticisms of somebody who chops up and then cobbles together what was a nice restorable or otherwise rare car with no sense whatsoever of history, proportion or style, some of those are available because those of us 'serious' collectors didn't see fit to save them.  Not everybody can afford a matching numbers 69 Z-28 or a 48 Packard Custom 8 convertible (both of which I love, by the way).  Let's all give thanks that at least these guys (or girls) are in a hobby/pastime that is generally worthwhile and certainly better than what a lot of folks spend their time and money on.  OK, I'm off my soap box... .  SMB



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  9. Steve--Here are a couple of photos of the seat tracks and floorboard in my 34 PE convertible, which is an early production model (it has the early style grille shell). All of this stuff is original from the factory and I believe should be the same in your PD. Note the support blocks mounted on the underside of the floorboard. There is another, tapered wood block (some kind of hardwood, looks like oak) between the tracks and the floorboard. The tracks themselves mount directly to the underside of the seat frame. The two seat tracks are connected to one another by a piece of sheet metal 'channel' with a hole in each end so that the two tracks work in unison even though there is only a hand control on the driver side. I have seen 3 different types of handles, one just a one-piece forged steel handle, another one with the nickel 'knob' insert like is shown in the pictures, and a third one as described above, with a nickel 'ring' for a handle. Working during the week but this Saturday or Sunday I will be working on my 34 and will take a couple of more detailed photos and send them your way. I do have a complete set as a 'spare' which I will also shoot you a photo of. Not particularly interested in parting with it but would be interested in a trade for any convertible-specific parts you might have. Looking in particular for a top piece (where the rear view mirror attaches) of the windshield frame and the pivot bracket (the cast piece that rivets on to the channel steel for the B-pillar and has a hole for the large bolt to pass through that the top irons pivot on). However, will consider any 33-34 convertible parts you might have to trade. Hope this helps. SMB






  10. OK, did some digging in 'Group 21', the section of the parts books dealing with the transmission.  Checked my 34 Dodge and Plymouth books, as well as the 33 Dodge and Plymouth 'Master Parts Lists'.  All of them agree:  33-34 Dodge and Plymouth all used the same gaskets, the large one for the rear is #600356 and the smaller one to the front (which the books refer to as 'Gearshift Rail Cover Gasket, Front') is #601567.  The ones on that 'Best Gasket' website look about right, nice resource.   Confirmed my 34 has a two-piece cover, still looking to see if I can find a spare 34 box or cover.  SMB

  11. Let me check, I might have one. If I have one it would be a 34, I will check my parts books to see if it is the same. P.S. Post some pics of your convertible coupe, love to exchange info with 33-34 convertible owners. SMB

  12. Couple of items:  First, correct that those heaters are gasoline fueled, get hot real fast, but can be dangerous.  Can't imagine why anyone (but a Model A Ford driver) would want a gasoline line running just above one's feet. (I think that is why it is called a 'firewall'...).  The one Dave shows is a South Wind manufactured unit.  They are still manufactured and can still be purchased new.  On the 'panel' v. 'sedan delivery', technically correct, sedan delivery is the single rear door model.  I believe Dodge never used that term, however, choosing to call it a 'commercial sedan'.  Photo attached of original 1933 ad.



  13. Dave--OK, I never thought I would part with it once I found it, but ask your customer if he would be willing to trade for my 34 Dodge DRXX coupe I bought recently, couple of photos attached that were on my prior post. As you know, DRXX is quite rare, only a couple of thousand of them made. Understand if he/she is not interested, but it doesn't hurt to ask. Hope your move is going well. SMBhttp://forums.aaca.org/uploads/monthly_10_2014/post-89602-143142770958_thumb.jpg

  14. Those front square through frame fittings are very difficult to find--I misplaced one for my 34 PE and I finally found one on a front independent suspension  frame clip cut off by a hot rodder (I can never understand why that is done--properly rebuild a 34 coil front suspension and they ride and handle great).  The banjo bolts are another matter.  Many cars use banjo bolts in that size and thread configuration and as long as they are the right diameter, thread and length, they should fit your frame fittings, brake hoses or many of the replacement hoses that are available from many places, including ebay.  I don't think the originals were DB stamped on the heads so any correct banjo bolt should at least work and would look identical once installed.  Dave at Dodge City (note that he is in the process of moving from Jamestown, see some of his multiple posts) should have them, I know last time I was up there he had some--tell him to look in the parts drawers that were in the room just off of the office, Mike had them stashed there!

  15. Check the firewall for a data plate on the driver's side. HC prefix is a 33, KC is 34. If it says KCL, then it was a long chassis 34. From the looks of that hood and what can be seen of the frame, it might be a bigger truck chassis, which used the same cab. Data plate would have a different prefix.

  16. I actually had a very similar piece a few years ago. Almost exact, except the angel was in a slightly different position. Mine was a mass, memorial service for fallen pilots in WW1. I believe it dated 1916. If I had to place a educated guess, I would say yours was probably cut down to accommodate a frame. There are people who could authenticate this further but they are a bit pricey. It does look authentic to me, just from the pictures shown.

    Interesting. It is not a repro, clearly an original lithograph on very thin paper, mounted forever ago. I put it in the current frame and mats but did not cut it down from the way I found it, in a very narrow, obviously period frame and glass. No lettering on it anywhere. Again, I just love the image and the colors are like new, must have been away from the light forever. Thanks for the info!

  17. Tom--

    OK, keeping in mind that I have my fuel and brake lines run inside of the frame rails for safety, my 34 PE convertible frame is otherwise completely original. Starting from the center of the X-member and running back to the frame rail, each side has 6 holes but they are different from side to side. The 'port' side (driver side here in the states) holes are 3", 3 1/2", 3", 3", 3", 2 1/2", front to back. The 'starboard' (passenger side here in the states) holes are 3", 3", 3", 2", 2", 2 1/2", front to back. As you can see from the attached photos, the 2" holes are where the frame has a notch for the exhaust pipe clearance. I am not sure why there is one hole bigger on the other side, this is actually the first time I have noticed that. Looks like your passenger side does not have the notch for the exhaust pipe. Checked my 34 PE sedan and 34 Dodge DRXX coupe and they both have this notch. Hope this helps. SMB



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