alini

No sale. So now to figure out a new game plan

Just as a point of reference I rebuilt my car frame off replacing every rubber piece, all interior, suspension. Rebuilt engine and trans all body work done by me which saved me thousands I still spent $20k in parts and I could have spent a lot more. Had I outsourced this work it would have easily hit 50+. Having not seen your car be ready especially if you have rust

MIne was frozen, I ended up having to source a replacement. With the nut off it wouldnt budge and got warped with the puller. If its not sliding off, chances are its not coming off without a fight

Because it adds to the drama. Have you ever actually seen them go through the complete process of removing it and fixing it. You see segments of video showing them handling a distributor....its not always real

I personally know Redneck Robbie from animal planets Tanked. That crap is all scripted BS. While they are doing good work in the background they make up drama about things that don't exists. So when they say something was leaking or not fitting but you never see it yourself it's probably fake like the Martin brothers in Texas who had the firebird that had caught fire and they drained the oil and crystal clear water drained out of an engine that's been parked for the better part of a year. There is no way that water would be that clean.

What is your end goal, are you looking for 100% factory original or are you comfortable with 'not so much'. Like Ed said, its your car and your budget you have to do what that allows for. Some folks have had it all rebuilt, some have gutted the plates out and cleaned it up and mounted it. Since the taper of the valve is needed for your exhaust pipe to seal, you'll have to put it back in some fashion.

The listing will go active at noon today for five days. No reserve, I did start it at 23K, which is a tick under what I have into it. Once I get a link I will post it. Been fun, time to move on to another project. http://www.ebay.com/itm/162374724267?ssPageName=STRK:MESCX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1585.l2649

There two tubes that go to the exhaust manifold. The fresh air tube ed is referring to connects from the passenger side of the top of the carb and runs almost straight down to the front of the crossover tube. That tube uses filters fresh air from the air cleaner down to the cross over where it is heated by exhaust gasses and then back up from the rear of the carb to the choke housing as routed in the pics I posted. Two different tunes. Many guys don't run the fresh air tube and in my opinion it's not needed because you will have a slight vacuum draw there too which will offset the vacuum at the choke housing. If you have your stove pipe hooked up and the choke works it's up to you if you want to run the fresh air tube. I'm betting you will have to make one since it sounds like you don't have it installed already p.s. My name is Chris

Do these help??

You can order just the sprigs from old Buick parts to convert them to the other size. That's your cheapest fix

Looks like a great buy. Enjoy

It's your car. You obviously feel the 65 caps belong there so put them on. If you like the 70 style leave them. You know why they are there. Too many people make their car fit what other people like,make your car yours. It's nice to see an owner who knows about his car. You can answer he question of why the 70s caps are there. Most people wouldn't even notice

I think he means removing the plastic cover from the block itself. There is a tab along the side to depress and the cover will slide one way or the other off the end of the fuse panel Its pretty stout plastic you should be okay to be rough with

You can remove the choke and pass a thin wire though the passage to make sure its not clogged. As long as you have action in the choke and it opens as the car warms up, I wouldnt sweat the vacuum part, you have heat getting there and thats all you really want

Both of those are GS though.

There I fixed it

The 65 went for $59000 I think that's a record for Barrett Jackson and first gen riviera

I cancelled the ebay auction shortly after I listed it because I kept getting messages that I was asking too much. I have had in craigslist locally for 30K for about a month now. Have a potential buyer coming to town this weekend. we will see

The other two will be later on since they are museum grade pieces and part of the collection, so they should fetch a higher price

Well the 64 final bid was about 16K....anyone surprised?? Personally with those wheels, the plain interior, the painted bumpers, the frenched in tail lights there is a taste required to own that look. Then add the weird plumbing (I wanna say thats the Air compressor for the Air Bags....since there is a breather bolted to it.) The shady return spring and the engine bay that just doesnt look maintained....alot of questionable maintenance requirements to throw money at to make it right.

MIne was a little off, not as bad as yours. I was able to bend the tube and I tapped in the tank just a touch. A little manual work to save the headache of shopping for a better fitting one was worth it in my opinion

Be better if the oil filter was on the engine Be even better if it was the one for this car...which it isnt

Im still learning about the car in general, remember I never drove it or even heard it run before I rebuilt it. So driving on the highway is a whole new experience and the sound was just a bit different.

Thanks guys, as part of my learning curve with the car it just sounds like its turning over alot faster than that. I know its mechanically going to be under the 3K mark as you guys have backed up but it just sounded faster. Im barely on the gas at that speed, just not used to the sounds yet

Anyone with a 65 have a tach installed. What RPM are you turning on the highway? 60-65mph?