dibarlaw

My restoration fellow is still looking for good formulas for #510 Hampton Gray and Carteret Red. A close match will be fine. Never will be a show car. Larry

Thanks Marty: I had to save the picture so I could zoom in to see if it was 2 or 3 stripes. Shows 3.

Thanks Grant. I forwarded the photos to the shop. I think the wheels that are on the car still have some stripes. But they are 39-?wheels I bought a rough set of 1937 wheels that I had sandblasted and recoated. These are the ones to be repainted. Larry

Just went to the Judging manual and #510 Hampton gray uses Carteret Red stripes. Now just need a shade comparison or formula. Larry

My 1937-41 is in the shop getting ready for the National. I asked them to paint and stripe the wheels. I sent them 20 years of the "Torque Tube" magazine with the topics earmarked for reference. With the stripe form and spacing as well as the color. They have not found that info. As the car is 1 1/2 hours away I can't look at the ID plate. I believe it is #510 Hampton Gray? The wheels are to be body color. What is the red for striping? Mixing formulas? Larry DiBarry

Dave: I would first remove the combination switch. Carefully marking the positions of the connections. Then clean the contacts of the multi-contact switch well. In the start position you should should have a current drain and hear a faint chattering sound. (Rattelsnake). That indicates the starter is in operational mode. Once the engine starts it automaticly dissengages the starting circuit. The switch on my 1925-25 is quite "finniky". I usually have to hunt around for a sweet spot to hear the rattel Larry DiBarry

Have the new lining riveted to the E brake band. I had to make up some copper rivets on the lathe for the ends. Drilled and countersunk all. Then put 6-32 screws in to hold as I worked around. After school I went to a local old line hardware store. (Service department to work on small gas engines etc.) Where they let me use their rivet machine. Now 3 more wheels! Larry

Mark : So sorry about your luck. I was hoping to finally participate in a meet this year. But with the 1925 laid up with brake problems. We were looking forward to the national with our 1937. The restoration shop promised to have it ready to drive several weeks before to do some trial runs first. When I visited them on April 10 th we agreed to get a new wiring harness. Yesterdays E-mail now informed that they haddn't sent for one yet . 4 week lead time. So they would not have it ready for the national. Upset dosen't cover for me. Feel your pain... Larry

Well the 36" lining sent was clamped /stretched tightly and came up 1" short. I then asked them to then send one piece 76" long and I would cut it myself. Well that's what it said on the invoice when the new lining arrived friday. But measured at 74"! I will have to be carefull! Larry

I will probably be using local roads. I don't want to push the 37 on it's first big trip in over 25 years. Larry

Mike : How long have you had your 1923-54? Almost bought one that is in Vermont last Aug. Would have really liked to have gotten it. See my thread on Pre-War "looking for a driver Buick" Larry DiBarry

At this point we are planning to go. If my 1937-41 is roadworthy by then. I plan to drive it to the meet. Penn Dutch Restorations has promised. I asked the wife about the after tour and not much appealed to either of us. Larry DiBarry 1925-25 1937-41

Mark : I will remember that. We will be celebrating 35 yrs next month. If she doesn't kill me first. As the bills have started comming in from the restoration shop that is finishing up my 1937-41

Nice progress report Mark. I thought that I was the only one with a "Boss Redhead" But she barely tolerates our 2 Buicks. Larry

Another set back with my car. I thought I gave correct information on the outside diameter of the e-brake band (35 1/2"). Which would be the inside diameter of the lining. I asked for a few inches more than 6' and I would cut to fit exactly They just cut 2 - 36" lengths (outside diameter) now they are both 1 1/2" short. It seems that I just can't get ahead with my 25. Larry

In the Buick Technical tips. Published by The BCA on pages 159-160 shows the process of having one machined. I remember in the mid 1980s Bugles having ads showing a complete ready to install unit. Don't know anyone who still has any of these. I also had a thread on the forum back last winter about how I did mine. Larry

Tom: Thank you for shareing. It is great to see some of these early survivors. Tried to purchase a similar 1912 Buick at Hershey. But as always a day late and a dollar short. Larry

Phil: The Model 45 master is a good deal larger than the standards. And the 2 side and quarter windows would not fit. Even so they would be for the enclosed Standard touring. Anyone I have asked is doing the same as you. Turning them into a collapsable top touring car. Good luck with your restoration. And keep us posted. Larry

Larry S: I bought the felt seals from "BOB's" And made my own gaskets. Now trying to find someone local near Chambersburg to get linings and rivets from. Larry DiBarry

Unless it is worn excessively it should just need oil added. I made new bearings for mine. 1925 -25 Touring. Larry

Wow Dave! Looked to be a 1924 Master sedan. The Photo credits called them both Model Ts? Could you ID the remanents of the blue touring car? Larry

Leif: The 2 piece lining arrangement on the external bands matches the parts book photos. Part numbers 170056 & 170057. Open space where the brake band anchor clip (#169586) is located and riveted to band. The linings on the externals are 1 3/4" wide. The internal is 1 1/2"wide noteing that the Shop Manual calls for 1 3/8"wide. The lining material is the woven style with brass wire. All the linings look thick enough. I would think I could cut off the rivets and drill through to the rivet shank hole diameter and then countersink on the correct side. This appeares to be the same material that my 1937 clutch was relined with and it was riveted. Then of course I would need the correct rivets. Sorry to say when I worked at a local Buick garage in 1976 we scrapped the rivet machine and press. "No one relines shoes anymore". Could shure use it now! Larry

Friday I was going to clean the E Brake band, reinstall the slinger with the new gasket and felt(soaked in glycerine as recomended) and put everything together. But the rear of the e-brake band rivet heads were worn thru. As I studied the fastening of the linings. Did not make sense. The ends were countersunk with round heads on outside (wear side) all others in field surface round heads inside with the split rivet ends piercing the lining material. All apear to be worn thru to the steel splits. Looks like the rivets were just driven into the woven lining. No holes and countersinking. Most of the lining thickness is 3/16-1/4" On the external contracting band this is opposite. Again split rivets but round head on outside with the splits driven into the lining all show worn to the splits. This lining is uniform 1/4" thick. When I first assesed the car before purchace I was satisfied that the brakes looked good. By the indicated thicknes. As I see the Shop Manual plainly shows countersunk rivets. With a 3/16 thick lining. I will check the other wheels. But it now looks like I need to reline all to avoid any further damage to the drums. Recomendations for suppliers?

Did send an E-Mail about availability. Mine do not have the door pockets. And I would like to reproduce them and some of my door hardware is wrong. We had an inquiery on the forum two months or so ago about a similar situation. Probably a 1922-23 mode 35 showing one rear door, some of the glass pannels, a set of top bows and a foot rest. Seems like in the 1930s these mid west farmers liked to cut down these old touring cars into pick up trucks and stashed the left over parts in the barn. It would have been great if you also found the top bows and irons. That is because my 1925-25 has a cut down top from probably a earlier model 45. (Has an oval back window). I would really like to find a correct set. The other iquirery also had the glass panel type side windows instead of the side curtains. Not very desirable when restoring a touring car. These were made I believe for the 25A enclosed touring. The factory photos still show the open car type windshield instead of the windshield you have. Larry DiBarry

As always I thank my friends from half way around the world for their advice and insites. Now to get back to work! Larry DiBarry