dibarlaw

John: Thanks for posting the photos. I watched you sneak around while we were doing the interview. We fought the good fight as I was set on driving it there. In the end we had fellow BCA member Pete Rambis trailer it. The rear carpet is still drying out, even though I had it covered with a canvas tarp. To bad you did not catch the drone crashing into the movie screen. We put another 366 hot miles on the 1937 and it did great. Unfortunately I was not able to get away to meet people who were at my 37 Special. I believe we were all non stop answering questions on our 1920s cars.

Frank: Nice talking with you also. I know that things started to get busy. And then the rains came!!! If you wish I can send the copies I made from the Marvel MODEL T series carb booklet with the complete parts breakdown diagrams. I have to make new copies since the ones I had at the show were soaked. Even though I had a tarp on the car the rain still blew in. The rear carpet is still dripping from the line.

Dave: So sorry we had to cancel. Making it easy for folks to drop in to the group also made it easier for them to drop out. As I told you the week before the meet we still had over 20 participants but only about 11 cars and only 5 that were pre-war. There had been a large group from the 1936-38 club from Indiana, Illinois and Michigan that had cancelled out on coming to the meet entirely the previous week. By Friday morning John Scheib said that number had dwindled to 8 people and 5 cars. That upset all the reservations at all the museums and restaurant stops. I would have loved to continue. I am glad we had some time together and that you were able visit Steam Town. WE will tour again. Larry

John: After spending the night amongst the (2) Model Fs, the 1909 Model G and Larry's Truck, I think they all got together and told my car "kid, straighten up and fly right". We drove Beulah around the grounds for about 15 minutes and she cooperated with no issues. We had many visitors to discuss our Buicks and share information. Several from New Zealand and Australia. By the end of the day we had 10 cars in the 20s group. 2 1923s, 2 1925s, 3 1927s, a 1928 and 2 1929s.

Sorry to say that our Pre-War After Tour tour has been canceled. As of this morning John and I had only 2 other couples who wished to attend. That made 8 people and possibly 4 cars. Last week we had about 20 participants. Most of these had decided not to attend the celebration because of extra expense and travel complications. We thought it would have been a great trip. Possibly at a later date in the fall we can run the routes as a group. Best to all: Larry

Thanks for posting. You find such great stuff!. I called on one Identical to this one advertised on the HCCA website from Ontario CA. He was asking $20,000 and said he could not start it car because of a broken shoulder so he did not know if it still could run. He also said he bought it as a business opportunity to rent out for weddings and movie work. The photos he showed were when it was on a trailer and did not get the pictures I asked for. (I asked for some shots with the top up, undercarriage and engine.) Same colors with vinyl upholstery as the ones he sent me. It may be the same one???? Although this one does look pretty nice even in incorrect colors. The 1913-31 here in PA I offered $15,000 because it did not run, there was a hinted problem with 2nd gear, the clutch was stuck at the time. Also it had a very deteriorated 60 year old restoration with vinyl upholstery. At least the car was in its correct colors (off white with black fenders and correct pin striping),They were holding out for $20,000. I found out that they sold it to someone in western PA. That person spruced it up and went to take it on tour. The first day they lost 2nd gear entirely. I do like to check up on the cars I was not successful on buying to see all the fun I missed.

Larry: Thanks for the reference. This afternoon it seemed to run fine around the Bulgari complex as I was going to cover it before the impending storm. By the way, it is now sitting next to your truck in the garage. I asked Kieth Flickenger and he said that I could put it in. So Beulah is now in good company.

Tom : Here is a scan from the shop manual.

Brian: Thanks for your question. Most of the meetings are at the NB site. The 862 building is where meetings and seminars are noted on the site map. Diagonal to the registration building in the upper left hand corner of map. It took a while for me to download this and unless one can print it out to poster size most of the text is unreadable. (Light gray text on light green back round). Even increasing zoom on the computer it is hard to read.

Thanks Tom: My distributer (on the left) is shown on post #20 on this thread. The 2 piece points are used. I had an other set of points which I re-dressed. I changed out 3 different condensers to try to keep the points from burning. My engine, as I originally stated is very tired. I was just hoping to be able to get a few more miles from her before the big plunge into a rebuild. My new objective was to at least be able to get it on and off a trailer drive it around at the Allentown meet. My big issue is if I can drive it the 10 miles to the Wingate where we will be for the Pre-War After tour. (We will be driving our 1937 all week.) That will be where my friend Pete will have to pick it up with his trailer on Tuesday after the tour so we can come home together. Since it could not be left at the Bulgari compound. Hugh: While I had the carb off AGAIN yesterday I pulled the plug I made for the damper assembly just to double check since Leif mentioned it again. It is open. Yesterday after installing a new gasket on the heat riser to manifold things improved. No backfiring. Then I went to check on the ignition side and heard a snapping sound I pulled the spark plug cover and found the #6 wire at the 90 deg. boot had spark jumping to the block. (The first time this has ever happened) I had made all new wires and used modern 90 degree boots and connectors. (so everything fits under the cover) I added some of the plastic wire loom to cover the wires for extra insulation and re-routed them. No sparking now. We will see what new thing it decides to do today.

Kevin: I have also made a new metering pin link from the one Hugh lent me. The one I had was 1/8" short. I installed his link onto his carb (that is on my car now).

Chuck : Today I am trying a vacuum check . Since I am running a vacuum tank. I will disconnect the vacuum line from the tank and insert my gage at the manifold. The quart + of fuel should run the engine long enough to get me some readings. Also I can refill the tank from the electric pump I left in line. I had been running non ethanol fuel.

Thanks Larry. I was searching all other links/posts including on the BCA website and there was no posted schedule.( Other then the tour times ). I finally remembered seeing it in the July Bugle page 12. I remember in the past we always had a schedule in the registration packet. I had assumed that the meeting was to be on Thursday. I had no intention of coming on Wednesday but now we have had to get another night at the Wingate. We had fun yesterday at our Mason-Dixon picnic/meeting trying to explain the trailer parking, show car parking, access times, rules etc. I was not successful.

With your friends and Paul Rose's I know of at least 6. (Pictures below of the one I tried to buy from Vermont in 2011). Last month on the VMCCA tour I saw one in the Roaring 20s car museum in Virginia that has wire wheels.

Bad, Bad Grapevine. We are still going.. I did talk to you last week. The 1925 is still very questionable. But we were going to drive the 1937 on the tour anyway.

Dave ; I know that we will be there. I did not hear of John not being there. We have had 3 more people ask to be included for Monday. All I needed to do at this point is make more copies of the 2nd day route.

Before I put in all the plugs, blocking plates and such to cut off all heat I did check that the exhaust heat valve was open. Since it was rusted (stuck open) the linkage has no control at this point since there is no set screw locking it. Just the rod set into position. The car seemed to at least run better yesterday so I was confident that today we could make at least a mile to church. Not! Within a block it lost power and started its popping and backfiring again. We were able to limp it back to the garage and then the water pump gave up a chunk of packing again. I threw the drain pan under the car and went to church to pray for forgiveness for my evil thoughts.

I believe this has also been advertised on the HCCA site for several months. Their ad indicates that there is no top material under that boot. Quick recover with vinyl on the upholstery. It looks like it would be a fun driver though.

Update on todays activities. Last night I felt it was running well enough to get it on and off a trailer so leave it alone. So I decided to do some more clean up. Went over the upholstery. Started storing the tools, jack, tire pump, spare stuff etc. (Remember my statement that every upgrade cosmetically resulted in a downgrade mechanically). After reading all of the suggestions I decided to re-check the vacuum tank. I drained to check for sediment( just a bit) and had over 1 Qt. of gas drained out. I then took off lines and made sure they were clean with no leaks or obstructions all the way back to the tank. The inlet screen was clean. I removed the downstream ceramic filter in case it was dirty and restricting gravity fuel flow and replaced with a straight hose. When I went to start today it was not cooperating. Had to make several attempts. Up to this time it started instantly. Once it was running the adjustment game started again. Only one very narrow margin allowed it to run without backfiring. Of course the throttle was dead. Each time I drove it last night I had to snug up the newly added water pump packing until all was finally seated. While it was running I went over to the ignition side to make sure all plugs were firing properly. I felt like it was missing. That is when I saw the water pump wobbling trying to give up a chunk of the new packing. Yes. I did wind the new packing in the direction of the shaft rotation. More Fun More Often.

Wow! Thanks to all for their contributions to the trouble shooting seminar. To address Leif's suggestion on checking for leaks in the steel sleeve Leif told me about this process when I first got the car and have done all that he suggested. The fill up of the heat cavity of the riser showed no leaks. Since one has to make a blocking gasket for the top of the heat riser and the exhaust manifold port then thread in the bolts with sealer. The assembly is then turned upside down filled with fluid then watch for leaks. I did this in 2013 and again this March. I only caught the tiny gap at the top where the sleeve press fits 2 days ago I was puzzled why there was fuel spilling down from above the carb when I removed it. Apparently the blocking gasket I made for checking for leaks kept this sealed. (I mentioned my fix in a previous post.) I have made plugs and plates so all heat access areas were blocked. I have done all that has been suggested. I enjoyed Matt's description of his fathers car. He did not mention any of this when we first discussed my car on the forum years ago. Possibly did not want to discourage me? I had replaced the original die cast distributer with a cast iron one with really good bushings. I remember being able to stop the engine by applying slight finger pressure on the side of the case. It was really cobbled up. As one can see from the photo of the distributer on the right the bushing they made to fit in the housing allowed no access for grease. Plus a stack of copper crush gaskets for spacers. I had already checked my gas cap. (I used to love to mess with the kids in my Small Gas Engine class by putting a bit of tape under the gas cap.) I will try looking at the vacuum tank again today.

Terry: I called John tonight and left a message.

I have a glass inline ceramic filter below the vacuum tank and I can see that it is always staying full while things are running. I can hear the tank cycling so I believe things are OK. I took Beulah out for a couple of mile drive. It started out alright but the longer I was driving it was running poorer (no power in 3rd gear). As I was getting her back in the garage it was popping again and shut off. Started immediately and was ok to back in the garage. I checked the valve operation and it does not appear that any are sticking.

I have been commenting and posting about my 1925-25 "Beulah" over the 4 1/2 years I have had it. All on the forum have been of great assistance on my issues. If it were not for Leif Holmberg I would not have the few golden moments to actually enjoy the car. To me it has been a lesson in patients and resignation to the Murphy's law philosophy. Staring with the chronic overheating that was finally cured with a re-cored radiator. So after 2 years of that issue we attempted to drive it to our Mason-Dixon meet 50 miles away. Down again, this time the clutch went out. Another summer gone pulling the rear axle and relining the clutch myself. Then rebuilding the Marvel carb and checking the bearings which were minimal then. I had hoped to get at least close to 1,000 miles of driving with it since we bought it. I knew sooner than later we would need an engine re-build. But we have been able to drive it almost every weekend and we did finally get it to the Mason-Dixon show in 2015. I felt that we had at last gotten things sorted out. I felt confident enough to register it for the VMCCA's Nickel Tour this year. It did not make it. Since last November I have been trying to get the car in a little better shape to go to the National in Allentown and the Nickel tour. Any positive on the cosmetic application seems to beget a negative on the mechanical side. I have not posted much lately on the problems I have had since I felt I could finally locate and solve the issues. Over the winter it was barely running with out backfiring so I went back to the carb. Along the way I did the following. I had to refit the swollen die cast parts that I did before according to the Marvel book. Effect.....Same problem. Fitted a new nitrophyl float from Gregg Lange. Viton tip for the needle and had to make a special pilot lap to clean up the seat. (I was afraid to destroy the brass seat). Effect.... Same Checked the heat riser the second time for leaks and found none. Effect.... Same Found shorted new condenser and replaced with an 80+ year old original. Effect... Ran better but not much longer. The carb was touchy and less power longer it ran. I thought that this was the culprit. At least for a minute until the operation degraded again. Re-checked compression. Which was better than when I first checked in 2012. High, 65lbs low 60 lbs. Re-timed (twice). Effect ... Same Changed out the coil. Rechecked wires. Touched up and checked points. Again! Effect.... Same Checked operation of the vacuum tank and no backing into the intake with fuel. Effect.... Same Yesterday I installed another 1925 Marvel Carb from Hugh in Texas hoping that would be my salvation. While I had the heat riser off again I thought I would check for leaks. AGAIN! At the very top where it bolts to the intake and the sleeve should be flush with the casting I did find a tiny gap of light. This would explain the fuel that would spill out from above the gasket when I removed the carb. I have plugs and blocking plates eliminating all heat access to the riser. I sealed this 1/16" step and gap with JB weld. I installed the carb from Hugh... Effect.... SAME! I now even have the correct metering pin link that I copied from the one Hugh lent me. Mine was 1/8 shorter. I changed out the longer reach Champion plugs that I thought would work better since the 3077 Autolites are not available and went back to the 3076s. Effect....Same Today I went to the garage to try another new distributer cap and found coolant all over the floor. The water pump had not leaked a drop for the last several months and decided to make up for lost time. (I knew before I could drive it again I would have to add more packing) but this just added insult to injury. I did change the cap and installed a new condenser making sure the lead was insulate from the plate. Effect.....Same What is happening.... The car starts immediately and seems to run smooth as I push in the choke. Within 15-20 seconds the engine idle will slow a bit. Then it seems to start "rolling'. Then if I give it a bit of throttle it will back fire. I adjust the needle until it will accelerate with out backfiring and it may be ok for 30 seconds. Then it will try to slow again and I re-do the adjustments. This is the exact same behavior for each carb. My last thought was a statement the Terry W mentioned that I may have a stuck or burnt valve. This will be my next item to check. I have run out of options. My goals have been changed from driving the car to Allentown, to just be able get it on and off a trailer to the show field. I had to get away from the garage so I did not do something drastic to Beulah.

Definitely a custom made sedan body. It looks to be adapted to the existing touring body. The original windshield frame mounts are shown. Very interesting!

Yes, Please photos. We love photos!!