MikeC5

Hi Tony, is the valance another name for the side apron? That is, the sheet metal that covers the side rails of the frame and also bolts to the front and rear fenders?

I was able to get both cups out of each end of the link. I'll have to start digging and see if there are any decent used and/or NOS parts out there. Just out of curiosity Ray, does MOT testing require a level of disassembly where something like this would be uncovered? As it is, the steering system (with a newly reburbished and adjusted steering gearbox) has almost no play (backlash, slop, etc), at the steering wheel despite the nasty wear on the pitman arm joint. The other thing I have trouble imagining with this issue is anything approaching a sudden failure. I would imagine steering would get progressively harder to turn the wheel as friction forces increase in the joint. It isn't like this is a constantly rotating bearing or joint; there isn't a whole lot of relative motion and as such, not much chance for significant heat build up. If this is true then I think seizing is not very likely.

Forgings may also have a parting line too though. Mass produced forgings typically have an upper and lower die in a monster press.

Thanks for the input guys. I'm going to keep an eye on it. I really don't think it will snap off since the narrow base of the sphere is fine. I'm using moly-disulphide grease which I'm sure is far better than whatever was used int he day. The steering isn't especially hard to turn (although I don't have much to compare with). I was wrong about the cups; there are 2 of them per joint. The forward joint on the link did look much better. It would be nice if the pitman arm ball could be replaced but the way it's forged, I really don't think there is enough material to allow for a hole to bolt a new ball on there. Any idea if the pitman arm is a casting or forging? I'm not sure I'd trust weld building up the ball if it's a casting (and I agree metal spraying isn't the way either Ray). If there is a more commonly available replacement for the pitman, I'd sure like to know about it. Since it doesn't have much offset, it does look like an arm made from flat wrought steel plate (with added beef for a hole at the link end) might work, assuming a ball and cups of the proper size can be sourced to fit the existing drag link.

I'll get a better picture showing the grease fitting placement. As near as can tell, the drag link only has the one cap. The spherical surface in side the drag link end appears to be machined into the link itself (no replaceable cup). I suppose one could get the pitman arm ball welded up and re-machined. Hopefully I can find out what the diameter should be. I don't think I've seen any replacement caps selling for these either...

I pulled apart the steering drag link rod joint where it connects to the steering gearbox sector arm to see what sort of condition things were in. Here are a few photos. The ball end on the sector arm does have noticeable wear and a sharp ridge created by the edge of the cup. Should I file this down? The cup photo shows some real metal on metal galling. Since I really have nothing to compare it to, I'm looking for input from anyone who has peeked at this. Was yours this worn? Is it still safe? Also, does anyone know why this abbreviated little grease fitting is used? It's the same thread as all of the others (1/8 PT x 28 tpi) but is shorter than a regular straight fitting (and has the screwdriver slot in the back for installation/removal). It there a tire clearance issue?

Thanks Vern.

Anyone happen to know the thread size used for the Alemite grease fittings (on a 25 if it makes a difference)? I bought some modern zerk(?) fittings a while back that had the correct thread but I can't remember where I got them. I'm sure it would help to know the thread size.

Click on the name, then choose 'public profile'. Look for the photo on the right side and click on it. It isn't terribly obvious I agree...

Nice looking machine. I like that shade of blue. It looks like you have a 12V system. On the passenger side of the engine, you have the water pump driving the distributor and the thing aft of the distributor is the original coil. The coil on the firewall is a modern retrofit. On the driver's side of the engine you will see a cylindrical object attached to the lower forward side of the engine- this is the starter/generator (yes, one unit does both functions). You should be able to sync out which way the throttle lever goes for a fast idle (look at the carburetor linkage as you move the lever up and down). When the lever pulls the linkage aft, that opens the throttle for a fast idle. The same goes for the spark advance lever except I can't remember which way is advance. Usually, the spark is fully retarded for starting (especially if using the hand crank). I'm sure more seasoned drivers will remember how it goes and post here...

Maybe a collector's car in 25 years...

O.K thanks P.D.

Should a 25 touring car wiper motor look like this one? Mine came with a Trico but it is one of those semi-circular jobs.

Willy, I think you are looking for the bracket that screws onto the front top bow and has a wing nut-type of clamp that holds onto each windshield stanchion. Myers Early Dodge sells repros. Look under body/chassis parts then scroll down to "top irons to body bolt". The bracket is listed under there.

Very cool. I love the control panel with the huge rheostat!

Wow I like the 1926 dyno. I'll bet those a rare..

Whoa... My 25 touring car came with one of those half circle shaped wiper motors... It appeared to fit properly. Did someone update it with a later model at some point? I'm sure it is a Trico. I'll get a photo tomorrow.

"does it look like the radial load bushings could be replaced with needle roller bearings? ". Sorry Bill, I was thinking thrust bearings... I don't see any fundamental reason why the worm shaft bushings could not be replaced with needle rollers. I'll get some measurements.

Glad to hear it Ray!

I did use brake cleaner and it worked but haven't tried Kerosene.

The castellations are used for locking the eccentric in place. A pin engages whichever one lined up with a hole for this purpose (see first photo at start of thread, the boss and holes on left are for the pin and retaining bolt. Once the pin is removed the bushing is pushed out easily. I will certainly keep that in mind Jason if binding occurs. I did try it with wheels back on the floor and it seemed good although I haven't gone through full range of motion yet (too much $%@#& in the garage at the moment). Bill, I don't see any reason why needle thrust bearings could not be used as long as the ID is close (to keep it centered) and thickness is close. I didn't think to measure these things since I was re-using them but it looks like it may have to come apart again since I didn't (apparently) rotate the sector wheel a full 180 degrees as intended. With wheels straight ahead, the steering shaft coupler should have the pinch bolts at the bottom but they are at more like 90 degrees.... I'll measure them when I take it apart again.

Thanks Bill, yes the big nut on top (concentric with steering shaft) is tightened to remove end play but not so tight that thrust bearings bind. Then you lock it in place with pinch bolt. Also, the thrust bearings slide easily along the worm gear shaft and are purely thrust bearings. Radial loads are handled by bushings in the top and bottom of box.

Here are a couple more shots of the nearly finished box. You can see the upper and lower thrust bearings above and below the worm gear. The 2nd picture shows a good view of where the pinch bolt clamps the barrel.

Ha ha! As we like to say at work: Answers: $5, Correct Answers: $10, Dumb Looks are still free...

Hi Ray, I doubt you can find side curtains ready made. These old DB's don't have the huge network of reproduction parts suppliers like the old Fords do. Someone on the forum might have patterns for the side curtains and maybe the name of who made them. On the DIM, I suspect you are right that it would be rarely used. I would check to see that the resistor coil is present on the back of the switch and not broken. I haven't driven my '25 yet and so can't comment on the power/gearing situation.