AHa

still available

still available

tires were sold but now available again

Every seller tries to talk up the product as high as they can to sell it; every buyer talks the car down to buy it. Its the nature of the beast. It all depends on which side of the equation you find yourself. Professional sellers become proficient as well as professional buyers at what they do. Even Pilate said, "What is truth?" It depends on whether you're buying or selling.

just so you know, one man's trash is another man's treasure. Sometimes beauty is in the eyes of the beholder. "Perfect" is a moving target. Most sellers have a higher estimation of value than most buyers. Nobody likes used car dealers.

I think you'll find Danny Isaacs very helpful at NC Coil. He makes all sorts of springs.

Try NCCOIl nccoilinc@windstream.net

I have two good friends I would like to offer as anecdotal responses to my good friend ericmac. The first told me early in our 30 year friendship he was born with more money than he could spend in his life time. He was certainly not extravagant but he bought what he wanted when he wanted it. He bought and sold a lot of cars, most very high end, never concerning himself with cost or expense. He was certainly a good friend to me. The second friend kept his hobby separate from his personal business. As a young man, he bought a T model, fixed it up, sold it, and made a little money. He took that money and bought another car, did some work on it, and sold it, making a little profit, and invested in another car. He did this his whole life and by the end he was buying very nice high end cars. He never bought a car as an investment but never lost money on one either. To my knowledge, he never advertised one of his cars for sale, people would find out what he had in his garage and stop by to make an offer. He used to tell me, "If the offer was so high I couldn't afford to keep the car, I'd sell it." There are a lot of people in this hobby with all kinds of financial abilities. I noticed where a certain car sold at auction for $120,000 but two years later the same car sold for $90,000. A loss such as this would bankrupt a lot of hobbyist but the first friend I mentioned above would not even take notice. He had ericmac's philosophy but he also could afford such a philosophy. My question is: why is there not room in this hobby for people who enjoy the old cars, are happy to spend money on them, but really need to be able to get most of it back? A little while ago a guy was trying to sell 10 Lincolns in a dilapidated building and everybody cried and moaned they weren't worth restoring; they were just too far gone. But if money is no object, if we don't look at our cars as investments, no car is too far gone to be restored. The only question is: Does somebody want to invest their money in the car.

The last I knew there was a woman running the company and I believe her son or sons were involved. Edinmass seems to think someone makes new ones. Who would that be?

It is a 32 Graham 2nd series 8. With all this talk about car values falling, I am reluctant to put lots of money in it. If I can't get my investment out, it doesn't make good financial sense to put it in. Now understand, I cannot afford to play golf, not that I would anyway, or gamble, or drink. I look at my cars like I look at my house. They have gone up in value consistently and dramatically until the last couple of years. I think I checked with the handle man before and he didn't have anything. Is the guys who cast in stainless steel still out there? I think I can repair them with satisfactory results as long as nobody tries to close the door by pulling on the handle.

Ok, but I had no intention of using glue or JB weld. Have you ever used West System or Devcon epoxy? The stress on the part is side to side. It only breaks if pulled in a way contrary to the design. who do you use to make new ?

So I'm sure I'm not the first to encounter broken door handles. The break occurs behind the part that shows as people attempt to close the door by pulling on the handle. It being pot metal, one side breaks out. I'm looking for the best option to repair this break out. I have used West System Epoxy for all sorts of repairs but was wondering if Devcon putty would be better in this application or what have you guys used with success? Thanks

I also have this Simplex jack that has this cut out in the head. I've often wondered if it was for a saddle to go under the differential.

I have four Pasco wheel adapters off of a 1917 Maxwell, two wheel centers, and one hubcap. Pasco manufactured wire wheels with a large brass center nut. These are the early style Pasco. It is a very ambitious project but they would look great on an early car when done. All for $700 or best offer This picture shows the front wheel adapter in the wheel. PM with interest.

good opportunity

I have two of these Riverside Oversize Cord tires, 33 x 4 1/2" for a 24" rim for sale. They are old but good project tires having 3/4 of their original tread. $60 for the pair.

1927 Studebaker tail light. Bent but looks repairable. $45 OBO

This is a 1911 Oldsmobile Autocrat, 124" wheelbase with 38 x 4.5" tires for a wheel size of 27". I believe this speedster is fitted with smaller wheels however because the front axle looks to be about 6" off the ground and there is very little clearance above the wheel for spring bounce. Race cars were almost always lowered.

I believe the above car is a 1910 model 16 Buick

Al, Mercer seems to be the target look for most of the guys building speedsters. That being said, most of the early car builders went down one wheel size when building a racer/speedster, making the wheel size 24-25". I can't speak to Simplex specifically though. You have to remember early roads were horrendous and the cars needed the height to clear the road when the wheels were sunk up 6-8" in mud. Racers and speedsters didn't have that problem and the main concern was the car turning over because of the rough tracks and spring bounce. When cars were converted to a racer/speedster, the springs were not redesigned. Thus the cars were designed to carry more weight than they actually did and the spring rebound could turn a car over when coupled with the inertia, which is why most utilized shocks. What size wheel you use is completely up to you and I don't know what size was on Wally's speedcar but if you're building a period correct car, a smaller wheel would be more appropriate.

The 28" and larger wheels were used on the really large cars for ground clearance and the underslungs. I believe some of the Oldsmobile aristocrats used 41" tires. Most speedsters/racers used smaller tires to get the car lower to the ground.

To my knowledge, there were very few.

Here is the mystery car again. Same two position grab bars, same thin spoked wheels, same tire locks, same rounded felloes, same horn. This car though, has some kind of tank under the cowl, as indicated by the filler neck. Old 16 also has the filler neck