Graham Man

The problem is in the early history there were over 1000 car makes, built in shops all over the world. I know it is 1910 range nice looking brass car. I am going to go with a 1913 Moyer... I had never heard of a Moyer before... all wood body, explains the door shape, hard to do with steel at the time. Apparently the body is also spring mounted on the frame for a smoother ride, like a buggy. Short Moyer history

Did anyone catch the "newest" barn find Mustang? Prototype 1969 Boss found in a mustang collectors barn. If this was my car, found in my shed, I would have been too embarrassed to admit it. What is a lonely 1969 Mach 1, original paint, 428 Cobra Jet worth now days 50K? I actually hope they staged this picture. https://www.motortrend.com/vehicle-genres/1969-ford-mustang-boss-302-prototype-barn-find-details-pictures/#:~:text=Larry%20Shinoda's%20long%2Dlost%20Mustang%20Boss%20302%20is%20finally%20found.&text=Incredibly%2C%20this%20hardworking%20farmer%20from,lost%20Mustang%20of%20Larry%20Shinoda.

I like the idea of pressure vs vacuum, but both have the same problem if you run low on fluid. Your shop air vacuumed solves the possible air leak at the bleeder. Curious if pressure vs vacuum removes bubbles faster? You would think pressure would make the bubbles smaller? Like the look of this one...no pump ($70). The little bottle is supposed to be a refill bottle so your reservoir will not go dry... I did find this unit, you are correct the plate could easily have a pressure regulator. the VACULA unit is $500

OK maybe I am crazy? I was at a truck alignment shop....about 30 years ago. I had my 1972 Mustang in for alignment. I had mentioned the brakes felt a little spongy, he said lets check it. He removed the master cylinder cover and placed a cast cover of sorts on the master cylinder and connected line air to it (125psi?) and then bled the brakes. Best bleed job ever. Has anyone seen one of these adaptors for bleeding the brakes? Is there something inherently wrong using this high of pressure?

Last time I had a auto glass guy out to the house I asked him the same question, he had a roll in his truck. They used the tape into the 1980s.

Gary, You do great work. From the pictures it is a 1929-30 615, should have a 4 speed transmission. 615 has the front bar frame support, just behind the front bumper, if you notice there are two holes in the back side of the bar to bolt on the license plate holders Two "T" shaped brackets for license plate, from my car.

I have one and done for over 50 years and never had a problem...last summer I had a rear wheel come loose. Generally retorque after the first short drive. If the wheels were powder coated every 5 miles till they stay tight.

Looks like a standard "factory built" tow truck assembly, here is the same one. Find a driver 1929 Chevrolet truck and build your own, have it lettered and you have a great recreation, good luck Here is a nice one for sale in Indiana $12K https://americandreamcars.com/1929chevytruck010915.htm I did find my Grandfather's car, he sold it in 1952, it took 10 years of searching.

I agree on tracking the history, if it made it through the WW2 scrap drives, it most likely is still around. You might want to talk to the people at the International Towing & Recovery Museum Chattanooga TN https://youtu.be/XjS_5hrGoIM

trimacar, I am expecting interior work to be much like painting a car, 90% of the real work is in the prep. This (pictured below) is what I worry about, without a excellent foundation, the job is doomed from the start? Even finding correct springs has to be difficult? Frames would have to be rebuilt, sometimes from scratch? I am guessing the level of car changes the level of spring work? Guessing a Model A is much simpler and less expensive than a Packard. Haven't even started talking about door panels. I think fumbling around myself will work but slowly. I think the best path is to find someone to apprentice with.

http://www.strykersrestoration.com/ strykersrestorationservices@gmail.com friend of mine

Nice looking cars...

I am located in the upper Midwest, not many shops still open around me in upholstery of any sort. I have been looking for a shops to do my Graham for 10 years, no luck, one gentlemen I met at "Back to the 50's" used to do pre 1930's car said he would do it just because he liked the car. I think he might be a great place to start. I also have about 1600 sq/ft heated shop, so nice working area. Might be the opportunity I am looking for...

Yes, I would only do historically correct, it would take me a couple years to get up to speed, but I think a good time investment (and I might actually enjoy what I am doing, for a change). Best option would be to find someone to apprentice with? My kids and life are at an interesting crossroads, might be able to get by a couple years without much problem financially.

I am pretty sure most of us here love cars, some of us love history, most of us are mechanically inclined... I have reached a crossroads in my career, and it leaves me at a unique opportunity in my life, what to do next? I have been an engineer in several rolls, project, mechanical, quality, what ever my several companies have needed. I think over 25 years, I have been fairly successful. Thorough a strange turn of events, I am job searching, and was curious what careers some of you had pursued? I was toying with the idea of starting antique auto upholstery business (pre 1940), since they seem to have completely disappeared. ‘Find something you love to do and you’ll never have to work a day in your life.’

I was told... the NITRO "high flow" is needed to cool the cylinders so the engine will not melt down. I just timed two Nitro cars getting ready to drag race, with burn out, and backing up they were running just over a minute so I am guessing a few more revolutions. If I remember correctly the engine is tore down after every pass. I read some incredible number of hours cars a left idling over their lifetime. Also apparently the big car makers are interested in hours your engine has been running, and now record hours it in your computer, too many hours can void your power train warrantee... I agree with your calculations, but I also agree too many assumptions to get an accurate number.

2X on the Vanderbilt cup site https://www.vanderbiltcupraces.com/blog/tag/in+search+of+alcos

Well at least G-P gave some credit.... they dumped Johnson fast in 1928 Jon, always curious what the correct finish was on these covers? this one looks sand blasted. Zinc with a yellow brightener would look great.

There was a gentleman in MN that was trying to save about 60 steam engines from the WW2 scrap drives, he took out a loan on the steam engines. When the scrap drive guys showed up he said if "you pay off the loan you can have them", they walked away... ingenious. The estate auction including the steam engines was in 2004

From the limited reading I have done it sounds like they made more in the line of under 500 cars and it sounds like a good portion were gifts for locomotive purchases/contracts. So my guess for cars actually sold would be somewhere around maybe 250? If the cars were gifted cars, most likely they would not get the care of purchased cars, might explain the low survival rate of such an expensive car?

#8 1911 40HP ALCO https://www.vanderbiltcupraces.com/blog/article/in_search_of_the_alco_12_a_1911_alco_tonneau_touring_car

1912 ALCO 60HP in France? Might be in France?

ALCO #11 1912 Touring https://www.vanderbiltcupraces.com/blog/article/in_search_of_alcos_11_the_1912_alco_touring_car_stored_in_rehoboth_massachu

Add one Fire Car?... 1912 ALCO 90HP https://www.huismanauction.com/auction/120/item/1910-1912-alco-90hp-6-cyl-restoration-project-11944/

1912 ALCO 40HP Touring