Graham Man

1977 F150 should not have a 390, should have 460, 400, 351M, 351W, 302 or 300-6. 1976 was the last year for the 390. The truck has a 1977 model front from the amber front signal lights, 1976 is white with yellow bulbs. Beautiful truck, mine is not that nice. Nice truck... hate the non-period wheels (they never look right to me), needs white or chrome wagon wheels, or the factory Alco aluminum wheels look good.

Watch this crash and see how far safety has come... spoiler's he walks away... incredible https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQ7_En2xEm4 Nice looking car to me...

The long list of electrical issues has always scared me away...

Errol Flynn says my Packard isn't peach... This picture looks closer...but still darker than peach, maybe salmon?

Yes originally the 1929 Graham-Paige would have had a cut out switch, I run them on all my Graham-Paige cars never had a problem https://brillman.com/product/universal-cutout-relay/ I just paint the cover black

I agree with Jon, carbs slowly go out of adjustment, ignition is now... Carb seems to leak gas out of the bleed off pipe, when pulling the choke or cranking engine over. (Normal) Car was running great, now it will not start or sputters like it needs fuel, fuel pump is working, fuel is flowing into carb, any suggestions? Did you try starting it with starting fluid? Should fire right up than die if it is fuel related I use a small gas tank to gravity feed my carburetor to make sure it is getting fuel Did you test for spark? should be a nice blue spark? Was it running nicely lately? or months ago? Points like to be cleaned parodically, condensers do weird stuff...like this Original 1934 Studebaker carb, anyone known for doing excellent rebuilds on a Stromberg UR 23 Updraft? (I do not think it is the carburetor) I had a partially plugged fuel line...that drove me crazy. I finally blew the line backwards with compressed air, running great ever since.

Pictures of the engine will help. I am assuming you are looking for an 322CID? Engine numbers might help. Graham had several in line 8 engines, if it is a Graham engine... PS Graham-Paige purchased, Graham-Paige designed raw blocks from Continental. Graham-Paige did all the machining in house.

Mitch, You want to talk to Carb King he is the guru of all antique carburetors. 1934 Grahams ran Stromberg. He offers rebuilding. Good Luck https://www.thecarburetorshop.com/ The Carburetor Shop LLC 204 East 15th Street Eldon, Missouri 65026 Home | History | F.A.Q. | Orders | Contact Us | SELL TO US Carburetors | Repair Kits | Other Parts | Literature | Tools | Articles | Troubleshooting | Carburetor Identification Passenger Kits | Truck Kits | Tractor Kits | Industrial Kits | Marine Kits | Multi-carb set-ups Car Comics | Car Records | Car Trading Cards | Subscription Cards | Oakland and Pontiac STROMBERG type SF updraft carburetors General information | SF | SFM | Sizes | Auto choke | Drip tube | Adjustments General Information The information in this article has been assembled from research of original Stromberg documents of which I am the current caretaker, and my own experience of 50 years working with carburetors. The information may be copied, downloaded, printed, etc. at the discretion of the reader; but should not be sold. We ask only that copies should mention The Carburetor Shop as the source. The universal versions make excellent replacement carburetors to replace other updraft carburetors of lesser engineering or those that do not adapt readily to modern fuel, or those which are simply unobtainable today. SF carburetors The SF series of Stromberg carburetors was the latest major Stromberg updraft design, and could be used for all classes of work, including heavy duty. The SF series were introduced in 1932, and production was continued through 1968. All SF series carburetor took advantage of the then exclusive Stromberg double venturi design that gave increased air velocity at the main discharge jet at all engine speeds to improve fuel atomization. Also available were vacuum accelerator pumps and power circuits, however many carburetors designed for fixed RPM engines eliminated these features for reduced initial costs. All carburetors were equipped with adjustable idle mixture. Most O.E. (original equipment) carburetors were equipped with fixed main metering jets, although some O.E. carburetors and universal carburetors were equipped with adjustable main metering jets. The vacuum accelerator pump activated the power circuit, when engine vacuum fell below a preset level. SFM carburetors The SFM series of Stromberg carburetors were basically standard variations of the SF series with features desired for marine use. These included special rust treating for iron-bodied carburetors, with all jets and moving parts constructed from bronze or naval brass. Brass bodies were also available, primarily used for salt-water applications. Another available feature for the SFM series was an air intake with an upturn rather than the normal horizontal air intake. Many internal parts (floats, jets, plugs, etc) were interchangeable among SF and SFM series carburetors. A drip-tube was offered as a safety feature on the SFM series and would later be offered on the SF series as well. This feature will be covered later in the article. Sizes Both the SF series and SFM series were available in S.A.E. (Society of Automotive Engineers) standard sizes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5. Nominal 1-inch carburetor, center to center on mounting bolts 2 3/8, bore size approximately 1 3/16 inch. (Often referred to as size 1). Nominal 1 ¼ inch carburetor,center to center on mounting bolts 2 11/16, bore size approximately 1 7/16 inch. (Often referred to as size 2). Nominal 1 ½ inch carburetor, center to center on mounting bolts 2 15/16, bore size approximately 1 11/16 inch. (Often referred to as size 3). Nominal 1 ¾ inch carburetor, center to center on mounting bolts 3 5/16, bore size 1 15/16 inch. (Often referred to as size 4). Nominal 2 inch carburetor, center to center on mounting bolts 3 9/16 inch, bore size approximately 2 3/16 inch. (Often referred to as size 5). The S.A.E. size would be appended to the series to denote a model – examples SF-1, SFM-1 The S.A.E. size denotes physical size only, and tells the enthusiast nothing about airflow capability. The chart below lists original application displacements and then available venturii in inches by S.A.E. size. SF-1, SFM-1 displacement of 133-260 CID, venturi sizes in inches ¾, 13/16, 7/8, 15/16, and 1. SF-2, SFM-2 displacement of 173-428 CID, venturi sizes in inches 13/16, 7/8, 15/16, 1, 1 1/32, 1 1/16, 1 3/32, 1 1/8, 1 3/16. SF-3, SFM-3 displacement of 242-1188 CID, venturi sizes in inches 1, 1 1/16, 1 1/8, 1 3/16, 1 ¼, 1 5/16, 1 3/8, 1 7/16. SF-4, SFM-4 displacement of 318-1503 CID, venturi sizes in inches 1 ¼, 1 5/16, 1 3/8, 1 7/16, 1 ½, 1 9/16, 1 5/8. SF-5, SFM-5 displacement of 471-1698 CID, venturi sizes in inches 1 3/8, 1 7/16, 1 ½, 1 9/16, 1 5/8, 1 11/16, 1 ¾, 1 13/16. CFM Stromberg did not publish CFM ratings; rather, Stromberg published a chart of engine displacements, and the recommended S.A.E. size carburetor and corresponding venturi. However, Stromberg's sister company Zenith DID publish a very few CFM ratings for their 63 series carburetors. The 63 series are VERY similar to the SF series, so I am including this information. Zenith size 2 with 15/16 inch venturi - 111 CFM Zenith size 2 with 1 1/16 inch venturi - 132 CFM Zenith size 3 with 1 1/16 inch venturi - 139 CFM Zenith size 3 with 1 3/16 inch venturi - 177 CFM Zenith size 4 with 1 5/16 inch venturi - 207 CFM Zenith size 4 with 1 1/2 inch venturi - 250 CFM Zenith size 5 with 1 1/2 inch venturi - 256 CFM Zenith size 5 with 1 11/16 inch venturi - 323 CFM SF-4 – Note the markings for the SF-4 and SF-5 are on the opposite side of those for the SF-1, SF-2, and SF-3, and on the top casting rather than the lower casting. SF-5 – Note the markings for the SF-4 and SF-5 are on the opposite side of those for the SF-1, SF-2, and SF-3, and on the top casting rather than the lower casting. Difficult to judge the relative size of a carburetor from a picture. Therefore the picture below shows the mounting gaskets for the 5 sizes of SF carburetors. The left-most is size 5 and just to the right of it is size 1. From there the sizes increase in order from size 1 to size 5. Note the size 5 gasket is pictured on both ends. Auto choke The Stromberg documents suggest that auto choke units were available of all sizes of the universal replacement SF series, and S.A.E. size 4 SFM series. A “5” was appended to the end of the model designation to denote the auto choke version, than an auto choke version of an SF-3 became an SF-35. The SFM size 4 with auto choke became an SFM-45. I have yet to see one of the auto choke SF series of any size. Most manual choke butterflies were equipped with a release valve. Drip tube Stromberg machined a boss on the undersize of the air intake on the SFM series carburetors. This boss was threaded for 1/8 pipe thread, and a small orifice was drilled into the air intake in the center of the threaded boss. Another threaded hole tapped for 1/8 pipe was machined ABOVE the throttle plate, and again, a small orifice drilled into the throttle bore. A copper tube could then be connected from the boss on the air intake to the threaded hole above the throttle plate. Why? When an engine with updraft carburetor is turned off, all of the fuel in suspension above the throttle plate drops down (gravity), and could run out the front of the air intake. This was not desirable on marine applications with closed bilges. With the drip tube in place, the fuel would drain into the drip tube, as the orifice was at the lowest point of the air intake, and then would be pulled into the engine when next started. This feature proved so popular that it was made available on the SF series as well as the SFM series carburetors. Adjustments and “gotcha’s” Floats – the floats used in the SF series carbs have a large diameter. To prevent crush, Stromberg inserted a baffle between the two halves of the float. The baffle is LOOSELY held in place by an indented circle in the center of the float. Occasionally, the baffle will be sufficiently loose to rattle when shaking the float. THIS IS OK!!! Test the float by submerging in hot water. If there are no leaks, use it. Do not discard a non-leaky EXPENSIVE float just because of the baffle rattle. Float settings – there are several different float settings, based on individual application. As a general rule, Stromberg would give FUEL LEVELS at a standard fuel pressure rather than a float setting. If you find a float setting in a reference that looks impossible, check to see if the dimension is for the float setting or the fuel level setting. Fuel pressure – from a 6-inch fuel head (gravity feed) to a MAXIMUM of 2 PSI. The idle mixture screw meters air, not fuel. Thus turning the screw in (clockwise) makes the mixture RICHER!!! A good initial setting is 1 turn from lightly seated. There is an indent in the throttle body where the idle tube is inserted into the throttle body. When rebuilding the carburetor, place the body gasket in place over the lower casting, and then slide the idle tube seal over the portion of the idle tube that protrudes above the body gasket. This seal will then form a seal of the idle tube to the throttle body. Failure to do so will affect idle quality. Adjustable main metering jet (if so equipped) is the more customary turn in (clockwise) lean, turn out (counterclockwise) rich. Use an initial setting of 2 ½ turns from lightly seated. Adjustment range is up to 5 full turns. No increased benefits will be acquired after 5 full turns. The units that were sold for fixed RPM engines that do not incorporate an accelerator pump generally may NOT be machined to incorporate the pump, as the castings are different. Note in the above picture, the accelerator pump well in the normal bowl on the left, and no provision for machining the accelerator pump well in the economy bowl on the right.

Well Hemmings has 33, 1969 Chevrolet C10 CST trucks for sale, they are selling in the 25k to 60k range restored/restomod/original, still can get nice trucks under 10k. I had a friend who sold collector cars all the time, put it on ebay, set a high reserve, make sure to list your phone number, after the auction ends you will know that days value, wait for the phone call, serious buyers will call, he sold every car he ever listed. Put in good quality pictures. Getting paid is an entire new thread. One of the questions you have to ask... are you just selling the truck? or trying to maximize the sale value? Your answer will dictate how much work/money you want to put into the sale.

We just saw a new record price for a car...I cant really call it a car, maybe Automobile? The stunning beauty and engineering of this automobile is exquisite... but a lot of automobiles have not sold in years, so in your opinion, What should hold the title as the "Worlds Most Expensive Car"? Some of my personal favorites...

Some of the old cars do extremely well. In the 1930's fuel prices were astronomical, very comparable to todays prices, adjusting for inflation. PS Is there anything else that compares to driving an old car around to relive the stress of todays world...priceless

Those colors are horrible by any standard, you could double the value with real period correct colors... frame color should match the wheels and accent the car....unless it is a taxi or restored in the 1980's The only optional color Graham had every year on every model was black, including wheels.

Ok this question is a little new for me. There were a ton of large and small engines with these plastic floats. I have been having problems with my 1980's applications starting to take on fuel, they still float but not the right height. Hoping someone has solved this problem all ready. My thought process it you should be able to dip them into some type of epoxy sealant to make them fuel resistant again. My applications are near impossible to find new floats.

Square head drive wood screw, they are still available and work great

Beautiful Packard, hope you get it running soon, they look best on the road. In my experience brakes have been a bigger job then getting them running (all my Graham cars have hydraulic brakes). Either way remove the plugs and put a couple teaspoons of marvel mystery oil down each spark plug hole to loosen the valves, rings and pistons. I would do this every few weeks till you start it, it will smoke a lot when you start it, but frees up lots of possible problems.

From the Coachbuild Forum... https://www.coachbuild.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=304&t=2087&start=0

1913 Hispano-Suiza Type Alfonso XIII https://www.autoblog.com/2012/02/15/extremely-rare-1913-hispano-suiza-type-alfonso-xiii-headed-for-a/

All I use is WIX, looks like WIX 51042 is almost identical This is from a GTO site http://cruisintigers.com/wp-content/uploads/oil_filter_cross_reference_for_pontiac_gto.pdf

1929 Graham-Paige 612 Same car used as the Police car, not sure if it survives today?

I have a friend that has a 1934 Graham convertible coupe, someone raked the windshield back in the 1950's, huge mess to fix the car, so it still is tipped back. Unless you can find factory pictures...

My 14 teen year old watches it about once a month... what could go wrong? This is the car I would want https://www.autoweek.com/car-life/a1707736/meet-original-bandit-trans-am/ The other reason to watch....

Absolutely hardware store 45 degree elbows... no idea why? It would lower compression even more. Oil fouling was a big deal on this engine, maybe the distance helped keep the oil off the plugs?

Not overly familiar with the Stromberg, but my Carter is full choke till it starts, unless it is a hot engine. The leaking of fuel is a result of it not starting, and normal for this period (updraft carbs). When was the last time it ran? Have you done any service since it ran last? Do you have spark? (points, no voltage to ignition, from sitting) Do you have compression? (stuck valves, stuck rings, from sitting) These are the same questions I ask myself every spring, normally I will have at least one car that the points need to be cleaned up (no spark) before it will fire up in the spring.

This is the movie? You can find them on ebay