Roger Zimmermann

No problem Dale! By the way, the green Cad is in transit, I have no idea when it will arrive. Most probably not before July. Enjoy your holiday!

So what a deception! You will not visit me...

In fact, those cars are so different compared to what was done in Europe at the same period of time. Generally speaking, they are not well suited for our roads, but well, I like them!

The assembly of the fresh painted body was not done in a few days. Anyway, the difficulties were overcome and in June 2000 I did the first test drive. Oh, not too far away: the car was not yet complete and it was not licensed. I took again a risk: I installed the license plates from my other Cadillacs. In case of a police control, he would have read "Cadillac" on the papers and it was a Cadillac! Maybe it would not have been so easy in case of an accident as VINs are compared with the paperwork. Anyway, the region I'm located is rural and traffic not important. That day, I did some picture I don't find anymore with one exception. You will see that the roof is closed, but the soft material not yet installed. The installation of that roof was a story for itself: the man who did the seats and other trim parts did also the installation of the roof. He did it during wintertime, with a too low temperature. Therefore, he could not stretch the rear window; its appearance was awful. The rest of the top was not bad but, for one reason, the man was not satisfied and he began to remove it at the front bow. And, what happened? He damaged it! He apologized and said he would replace the material at his own expenses. OK, I ordered another roof. When the roof arrived, the man began again its assembly. At the back of the body, the trim stick is assembled with screws. At one place only, a shorter screw must be used and the man managed to use a long one. Result: the screw damaged the rear fender/paint. This last event, added to the other ones he created turned me creasy. I took back from him the key of the garage and sent the man home. At that point, I decided to install the top myself. It is a chore, but it can be done! By the way, because of the mishapen of the man, both rear fenders had to be repainted...

At the end of august 1998, the car was ready to go to the paint shop. They had an hard time to improve the surfaces. Of course, as it was not urgent, they did not work on a regular basis on the car. It came back with the same small truck early November. Now is really looking like a car! It was a pleasure o install the firs chromed parts; one day, I got again out at the same place when I took the pictures with the body in primer. With the time, most parts went back to the car.

Sometimes I prefer to "work" on small items than large ones!

Obviously, that overhauling process is coming to an end. I bought recently small connectors and modified that large battery box changing the output from 6V to 3V and therefore I can eliminate the smaller box. The energy for the traction engine is done with the “fuel nozzle” inserted into the filler pipe. As the space to insert the nozzle is rather limited, I could construct a system which is satisfactory; therefore, I could reinstall the fuel tank. With this positive experience, I will replace the system I did for the Mark II with a similar design. Due to different filler tube diameter, I cannot use the same nozzle for both cars! The electrical engine is connected to a centrifugal clutch and to a 2-speed transmission providing also a reverse, park and neutral. The gears are selected by the lever at the steering column. With the front seat and steering wheel installed, it’s very cumbersome to move that lever, plus the bracket in the engine compartment acting as a relay is way too weak. This will stay as an experiment, totally useless! The current for the windows and headlamps will come from the battery box; a connector is laying into the trunk. To operate the various systems, it will be necessary to open the trunk and connect the battery box. With that in place, the rear seat was installed as well as the front seat for which I had to replace the string. I’m also satisfied how the seat is functioning. I still have to glue the back window in place. Who knows, maybe I will find another small repair to perform!

Maybe for the same reason Swiss Germans are speaking a language Germans don't understand?

Oups! On my thread we exchange thoughts about chrome; I see that radiators can also be an expensive proposition. At your place, I would try to repair it myself and close an eye about the dents. regarding compression ratio: as some wrote, I would not increase the ration too much: the knock is one aspect, the bearings at the connecting roads another one. they are not calculated for a significant power increase.

And expensive too! You will not break the bank with the Humberette!

As I wrote, I still had an original tail molding for a long time. Some years ago, I sold it to somebody in Sweden or Finland after explaining the process and that one of my home made molding would be a better deal. Sometime after, he wrote to say that he should have do the choice I suggested.

It would be time to discuss a little bit about chrome...The subject was already scratched with the Sabre wheels; however, such a vehicle is generous with chrome. You may imagine that chromed parts were not in good shape on this car. I had to replace many of them; for example, the center bar of the rear bumper was not bad looking; once removed, I saw that it was eaten by the rust behind the small bumper guards. The pot metal parts were in a desolate shape, badly pitted. At that time, there was an advertiser in Hemmings who claimed he can restore such parts. During a vacation in Florida, I took many parts with me (next to the brake booster) and we paid a visit to that company. I left some money there and all the parts... A friend of us, located in Florida was also involved with the shipping of the parts back to Switzerland. Most of the parts were good, some were not. Something surprised me: the parts were much heavier as before. When I tried to assemble chromed parts together, like the fake air inlets on the quarter panel, they would not fit anymore. The teeth on those parts had also a drop at their ends, they were not usable as is. Then, I began to have a good look at the back side of that specific part and I noted that I could peel the "chrome". Then I understood the "secret" of that job: when received, the chrome is electrolytically removed; the copper plating stay untouched. Then the parts are sprayed or dipped in a conductive primer; they are probably sanded after that to have a regular surface. Then they get a very thick layer of copper which is polished and then chromed. All those layers add thickness to each part and the copper add the weight. I measured the thickness of the copper: 0.3mm (appr. 0.012") The first layer is almost as thick, so each surface is about 0.5 mm thicker (0.02")! No wonder that they cannot fit together! A part alone on the body is absolutely not a problem, but when 2 chromed parts have to be assembled together, you have to find a solution. I began to grind the back of my new chromed parts, removed the extra material until they would fit. Some parts were not good: as mentioned before, the "teeth" parts on the side were grotesk, either I bought other ones or I peeled the chrome/copper. The instrument body was also not good. I did also a strip-tease of that part. Then, on all parts which were now as bad as before, I began to remove the original cooper by sanding as well as a little bit of pot metal until the surface was smooth. Then, I gave them to a Swiss plater who did the polishing and plating. One part on the car was broken: one of the molding on top of the rear fenders. Despite intensive search, I could not find such a part. (Some years ago, a welding technique was developped for pot metal, but it was too late) What to do? As I did for the Brougham for a missing part, I took contact with a small foundry. They told me that if they take the broken part "as is" there will be a shrinkage and the part will not fit on the body. I had to cut the molding at the elbow and increase the lenght at each half (were it was cut) with bondo. To reduce the costs, I ordered 6 or 8 pairs; I could sell some; I still have one pair in case... Once cast in bronze, the parts had to be silver soldered together, adjusted to the body, filed, sanded, machined and...plated. The result is very good. I had an original part plated in Florida; as it would not fit the way I liked, I used another part of my creation. The original part is still on stock, ready to sell! Both pictures below are showing the bronze parts machined, but before their surface is smoothed.

It may take 5 to 8 weeks. About the look: Brian did a lot of work, not only cosmetic. I can tell about it when I will drive it !

I hope too! When I think I bought it from more than 2 years ago; who said I have no patience?

Brian (the man who did some work on the car) wrote today May 21 that the transporter picked-up the car for its long journey. Wish me (or the car) well!

Another great day: the car is coming out of the garage under its own power! I had many trouble the day I started the engine, all created by myself...I believe an observer that day would have seen a funny cartoon: the engine is starting, fine! I go under the hood and ran back to stop the engine: fuel is coming out the carbs! the screws from the air horn were loose, I had forgotten to tighten them... New start: Oh my god! there is no oil in the transmission! OK, some liters after, I start the engine again. After a while, I see a lake of oil under the engine! What was wrong this time? Oh ! I forgot to tighten the lid of the oil filter...At least, I'm now sure that oil is coming there! Then, the engine ran good, without too much problem. They would come later. Stay tuned!

The "car" was delivered to me without the hard boot. By chance, I could find one in good shape. New paint was needed and the leather on the side was no more good. I had to think how to attach it again to the plastic part; I found a solution with small screws. If needed, I can take the leather away without problem. The hard boot was repainted by the body shop, I did not the work myself.

Well, Mike, that car is more than 100 years old. Who knows what happened to it during all those years. Both valves had to be replaced and the original type was no more found, therefore they were replaced with compatible ones using the split collets.

Lately, I’m busier with real cars than with scale models. Ah! The joy working on an underdeveloped air suspension system (1957 Cadillac Eldorado Brougham)! Recently, I ordered small connectors for the external battery pack. Unfortunately, those connectors are too small to be practical; I ordered yesterday two different types; one will be the right one. The lack of suitable connectors is the reason why the rear seat is not yet into the model. To diminish the number of laying parts, I assembled the dash. If the attachment of the right portion of the dash is now known with the left radio knob screwed in the structure, I discovered that the left part is attached in a similar manner: the assembly is attached with a screw behind the A/C & heater control which is then glue at its place. The fillers under the dash are in place too; the left one is needed a bit of glue to stay in place.

Indeed, the '60 Cad is an evolution from the 1959 model!

Radiator repair is not an easy task. If you are not well equipped to perform that job, you may do more harm than good. The previous "restoration" for so much money? A shame!

Parallel to the assembly and body prepare, there were many things to organize, go to the plater, discuss with the man doing the upholstery and repairing what people sold me as "like new" parts. One good example is the front bow. The one on the car was full of holes; I looked for a good one. I got an offer from a very well known convertible parts supplier; according to him, it was really like new, ready to install. OK, deal done, let ship that marvel! When it came, the front bow was indeed very gook looking. Ah! at least something I can store until it's needed. However, when I was looking at the part, I heard some strange noises inside. By shaking it, it was clear: this thing was repaired and bondo was traveling inside. What do do? well, have a look "under the rock" which means: I began to scratch the paint to see what was under. It was not nice: bondo over the rust. The whole part was maybe a little better than the one I had already, but not much. What next? I separated the halves and I began to weld patches...then sandblasted, paint of the inside and welded again. As I was at this work, I repaired the bow which was on the car; I sold it later, but I was confident that my work was first quality, not like the one I bought. By the way, this supplier is since "dead" for me. The pictures are showing the "like new" bow.

Now the car is finished. I will be informed when the shipper with take the car away; obviously it was not this week; I hope the next one! I'm adding some pictures which were taken a few days ago. The wheelcovers are in the trunk for the shipping. The hood ornament will be removed too.

I understand now why you (or that guy) is painting one element after the other: the compressor is too weak to paint the car at once!

The hood was sanded and installed. If the picture is dark, it’s on purpose because the one with a good light was less effective. You can compare the hood with the front fender’s sides; these curved surfaces will not be sanded and buffed because the risk here is too great to go through the clear coat. The floor mat structure was also installed; its shape is an elegant design as it makes an uninterrupted line with the dash. The junction can be seen on the picture; it’s the spot near the heater outlet. I will put some black leather paint to have it less obvious. The rubber mat itself is not yet glued on the metal part; on the picture the fit near the gas pedal is objectionable.