Stude Light

Not sure if any other years are similar. Need it for a 1930 Viking. Could also use a radiator cap for same years. Scott

I would suggest a 9th or 10th edition

I doubt you’ll find anything in that era. I suggest a Dykes manual from 1918 or 1919 and that will have some information you can use. Scott

Unless it’s a bad grinding noise, I wouldn’t worry about gear whine too much. The straight cut gears in a sliding gear transmission are typically noisy. Third is a locking collar so the torque path bypasses all the gears in the transmission hence it should be very quiet. That’s the gear you are usually driving in. Most all the sliding gear transmission cars I’ve driven have one gear noisier than others.

Roger, It would be helpful if you just stayed on a single thread with a topic rather than opening a new thread for every question and reply. This will also keep all your info in one spot otherwise you will have a heck of a time trying to find answers that you want to go back and look at later. Scott

I do not believe it originally had fender welting.

Series 19 Big Six was the first with the detachable head. Then all models starting in 1920. I’ve only seen medium gray as an original unrestored color on all early and mid 1920s so I’m going to say no on the green. A bit darker green came later, in 1928.

I’ll email you contact info as soon as I get a chance

This 1923 is for sale. I have one interested party at the front of the line but no commitment. It is about a 25 year old restoration but has been well cared for. It fires right up and runs, drives and stops well. Located in Lansing, Michigan. $20k

First photo is the tool kit for a Light Six including the proper tool bag. Mine has the Budd/Michelin Disk Wheels so a few tools are specific to that option. There are illustrations in both the owners manual and the illustrated parts manual. The parts manual lists tools specific to each model and, while the illustrations may differ slightly between some of the shared parts, the parts manual may list the same part numbers. This is because they used different vendors at times for their tools so it's not always an exact science. Take the tire pump for instance...slightly different between what was shown in the owners manual (second photo) vs the parts manual shows (3rd photo) but the parts manual shows a common part number for all models - same with the tire repair kit. Do you know what year and model you are focused on?

If you don’t mind something that doesn’t come close to looking original, the Optima battery is a great choice. Otherwise, just go with a good six volt battery and make sure you have clean connections and 6 volt wiring (ie “0” or “00” gauge cable).

Looking for one hood latch like the one pictured. Used on various models from the late teens and early 20s. Thank you for looking.

You may be right about the black. Was basing the gray on the early 20s original engines I’ve seen, one original 1919 Big Six and a 1918 that was restored in gray. If you have seen 16 and 17 engines in black, then no argument from me on black being correct. I stand corrected.

I have these two brackets I’m willing to part with (217RL). I paid $90 for the pair and would sell for the same.

The mounts look something like this so as you tighten the bolt it locks itself in.

Regarding the flat-plane Northway V8. It is probably balanced like 4 cylinder which is why it has the inherent 2nd order imbalance. Thus it seems lighter pistons means lower 2nd order….but that’s me guessing.

Medium gray

The Antique Studebaker Club, yes. The Studebaker Drivers Club is geared towards the post war era.

Typically the fused power runs directly to the horn, then the other lead from the horn to the switch completes the circuit to ground.

Video showing the porcelain on the manifolds before it began failing before the first 100 miles Photo after the porcelain started to fail Video showing the ceramic coating You can see the difference in surface finish and sheen (not quite as pretty as new porcelain) but I'm quite happy with the ceramic as I have a few thousand miles on that without any issue.

Prairie Auto Porcelain and Independence Porcelain are two of the better ones. I had my 1939 LaSalle exhaust manifolds done as that is what was the original coating. They blasted the manifolds clean, then put them through the porcelain bonding process which, by the way, was developed and patented by David Buick and made him a lot of money and allowed him to follow his dream of building engine….but I digress. The manifolds came out great until I started driving and it failed in several areas. My understanding is that porcelain over aged cast iron does not hold up near as well as over virgin cast iron. I ended up using ceramic coating by Jet-Hot. It has held up great and is very durable as compared to porcelain. The best sheen you can get with ceramic coating is a satin…not quite as nice as glossy porcelain but it lasts. No, you can’t use powder coating due to the high temperatures as it will just melt off. Scott

Parts book calls for the p/n 5960 copper washers but a little Permatex Right Stuff sure helps. Those water headers like to rot away. Examples of illustrations and p/n call outs

The visible bolt heads where a domed slotted screw. The ones in the wheel wells were a hex head bolt.

Spartan Model SJ Horn switch is p/n 17845 in the illustration. Has the wire harness attached.

I have the top piece if you need it Scott