Luv2Wrench

I did find the gear and it is: 26 teeth 0.75" ID 1.50" OD A quick search at the usual places found absolutely nothing. You'll probably need to get one made.

It does come out the front and I believe they are babbit but I don't have them close by to check. I would think that you'd be able to find a bevel gear to replace it. In theory I have 2 since I have 2 engines but I wouldn't want to part with the gear as that leaves one of the engines missing a key part. If you don't find a gear let me know. I might have what is needed to cut one, however time is a big concern for me right now and I doubt I could get to it any time soon.

OK, that's good news for you guys, just removing the camshaft is all that is needed. The gear slides onto the camshaft and is keyed. I don't have that part handy right now but I have a picture I took about 10 years ago that (sorta) shows the gear.

The shaft is in two parts and is easily separated. The bottom half of the shaft is part of the pump. The top half can only be removed (at least on mine) by removing the camshaft and then removing the casting that holds the shaft/gear. I assume that once removed you'll be able to either press the gear off the shaft or a pin/screw will be visible. I would imagine the gear would be a standard bevel gear and you could buy one or make one. Note that it appears to all be one piece but the crankcase top is cast aluminum and the casting that hold the shaft/gear is iron. A simple magnet test will confirm.

If you're talking about the modern style rims that someone welded to the old Metz hubs... I can post some pictures of that. If you want them just pay for shipping.

Great looking Saab. I really like those cars and I think the styling from that year (range) was really good.

Let's see some pics of the Saab

There are really good thoughts on both sides of this. When I saw the parts online my first thought was to speed up my restoration. When I got better pictures of the parts I certainly had second thoughts. I made some inquires to see if I could obtain what was needed to do two cars roughly at the same time. I even went so far as to do a spreadsheet to figure the costs. The end results was sure, I could do two but it would require extensive sheet metal fabrication and a lot more time. Time that I could spend saving the other hopeless basket cases that tend to follow me home. I've decided that I could take on the responsibility of shepherding the extra parts to homes where they can live on in another car. That decision got a bit easier when I finally realized that what I really bought is two halves for two different cars along with a friction drive wheel for a third car. The engine is very late 1913 and the front chassis pieces agree with that date. The friction drive wheel appears to be even later than that and was never mounted to the engine. The rear chassis has the older brakes and I would guess it is before 1912. I can assure everyone this... the extra parts will either go directly to someone now or the will be restored and advertised for someone to find in the future.

This is from a 1913 Metz 22 and appears to be standard equipment. The brackets that attach to the engine and front mount are listed in the parts list. I'm trying to find one but I don't have any idea who might have made it. I'm not even sure what "style" this is. Any ideas?

The parts lists specifies the horn (complete) and then a bunch of different parts for it. I've seen several pictures of the one that was most likely original as it fits the bracket/strap positions perfectly. Does anyone know who made this horn? What style horn is it? I'm not even sure what to search for to find one. Does anyone have one they'd sell?

I recently bought some parts to help with my 1913 project. The parts came today and I'm thrilled with the originality and condition. The engine looks to be in great shape (relative to being 100+ years old). I'm fascinated by all the detail that I can finally see up close!! For all these years I've had a collection of spare parts and have only seen assembled cars via online pictures. To finally see just how some of the pieces fit together was a real treat. It will be another couple months before I get back on the Metz project but these parts will certainly make it easier.

With the MG project wrapping up I've been thinking a lot about what needs to be done on the Metz and have been searching around to see if I could find more parts. Fortunately some parts did come on the market and I bought them. Today the "car" was delivered!! It is basically an engine and most of the chassis/driveline. One of the most exciting and valuable things about this "car" is that it is assembled and it has a LOT of original nuts/bolts and other hardware. It provides a lot of details on how things were put together and is an incredible resource for making sure my restoration is as exact as possible. I paid the price I did to buy it and have it shipped basically for that reason. Over the years I've collected a lot of pictures and have done tons of research but having this car with original hardware in (mostly) assembled form is priceless. There's no way my restoration would have been as exact without having these details. I'm absolutely thrilled to have it!! The condition of these parts far exceed most of what I have and will be a huge help. I took the head off the engine and looked at the cylinders/pistons/valves and they are in fantastic condition. With the extra parts I come close to having enough to build two cars and have given it serious thought. I think, however, that I will instead just pick the best parts and complete my car. I know of a couple of Metz owners that would benefit from any extra parts and I think helping their projects out is the best path forward. I don't expect to start on the Metz again until some time in the spring but I'm VERY much looking forward to it.

Absolutely gorgeous!! Hope you pics back to Carol and IR.

I wasn't sure if it would work for you but since the procedure isn't all the well know I thought I would mention it. I really enjoy your work and I'm very thankful you keep taking us on this journey!!

I probably will not be able to explain this... but I'll try. Let's say your stock is 8.5" in diameter and you want it to be 6.5" in diameter. The typical thing to do is turn off 2" of the stock. That can take a long time and, of course, turns your stock into chips. Instead you can turn your tool perpendicular to the stock (face) and cut a groove in the face 6.5" out from the center. Cut the groove as deep as needed and the part off the outside piece. You'll be parting off a ring with an OD of 8.5" (the diameter of the stock) and an ID of 6.5" (minus the width of the cutter). That then leaves your stock at the desired diameter. Here's a picture from a video on it. The rest of the video is here

Great car, thanks for taking us along on the adventure. Looking forward to it!!

Send me a private message with your email address and I'll send them to you

Outstanding!

Cut the post off the side curtain, slid it back 1/2" and welded it back with no issue. Started fitting the top bows only to find that in one of the joints a rivet had broken at some point and was replaced with a bolt/nut. As such the bows do not open all the way on one side as the nut interferes. Of course I don't have the correct size rivet laying around so I ordered that and it should be here tomorrow.

What is the size you want out of the stock? Can you do a trepan/face groove to get the part out? I just recently learned about trepanning and it is pretty cool, can save a lot of time and material.

I'm not sure I covered the floorboards here on the site but I do have some of the work done in a video. Good luck on your restoration!

Instrument panel and dashboard are in... but... another setback as the small line that feeds the oil pressure gauge will need to be replaced. It was too short and I bought some tubing to lengthen it and that worked great. Except I must have gotten some flux up in the tube when I was putting the connectors back on so the solder wicked up the inside effectively blocking the tube. I don't have enough tubing to do it again and Moss sells a ready made tube for not much more than the tubing would cost. Lot less hassle so I'll be going that route. I started fitting the top and side curtains. From my many hours of reading about this online it seems the trick is to fit the side curtains such that the front frame is parallel to the windshield and the rear frame is parallel to the front frame. One end of each frame is essentially fixed in position but you can adjust the other end to try and achieve the proper alignment. On the driver's side I was able to get them adjusted and locked into place with no issue. The front frame is 7/16" from the windshield which is a good gap for the side curtain fabric to cover. This leaves just enough of a gap between the front and rear frames so the fabric for the two frames can overlap. Driver's side is done! I wasn't as lucky on the passenger's side. While I could get everything parallel and level, the front frame is 31/32" (about 1/2" too much) from the windshield. The gap between front and rear is 1/2" too small. Fortunately I believe this means if the front frame slides forward 1/2" everything will be great. Unfortunately the only way I see to do that is to cut the welds where the vertical bar meets the bottom of the frame, slide the bar back 1/2" and weld it back. There's a bit of an angle where that is welded on as well (not flat against frame) so I'll need a jig of sorts to get it welded back correctly. Repaint will be in order as well. Once the passenger's side frame is fixed and in place I can install the top bows. The front is fixed onto the windshield and then you adjust the height/depth of the middle to get it to the correct height such that the top will sit parallel to the side curtain frames and just far enough away that the side curtains will slide under the edge of the top when you close the doors. Too far away and there isn't enough overlap to provide protection. Too close and when you open/close the door the side curtain will remain on the outside of the top. I've read that installing the top and side curtains is one of the more difficult tasks on the car and is often not done correctly. I can certainly see why but I believe the community has put out some good tips and there seems to be a logical way of getting this to fit correctly. Getting the side curtain frames perfect before proceeding any further forward is, I believe, the key to a good results. So tomorrow I'll be firing up the torch.

Wonderful cars, thanks for sharing!

Thanks for offering the information. I have a set and have digitized them so if you, or anyone else wants a copy just PM me and I'll send them along.

I'm interested as well.