Buick Downunder

Hi Larry I use a ford V8 condenser (1950s) for sidevalve. Works a treat. If your points are pitting that quickly and they are sparking yellow, change it over. These sell on Ebay for only a few $$$. Beware if you change your coil polarity, you will blow a condenser everytime. Ben

Hi Leif Sorry its been a while since I have been on the forum. I have been using a black distributor cap from Bob's for a year or so now with my 1925-25X. I have had no problems and have done about 2000 miles with it. It is the original distribitor. Take care Ben

Great news Larry. I look forward to seeing a 'driving' photo soon, showing the rewards of your hard work in action. Ben

Wow. Is this really just a wheel nut? Bizarre. Football? Who won? Regards Ben

Thanks Rod - the shop at Murrarie you describe is Wilson's I assume. These guys have helped me with head shaved recently. I'll drive by and give them a look and mention your previous fix also. Leif. Thanks for this, so it seems cracks are common place in your opinion then? Mine is definitely not the freeze plug (unfortunately), but a crack in the block extending up and down from the freeze plug, but very hard to see and only hairline thickness. Compared with your example, it is only minor. Thankfully we do not see temperatures anywhere near freezing here, so never such a serious problem. I have added a 'floating' sealant and this has stopped any leaks. I'll post a photo when I next get a chance. Enjoy summer for those in the NH. Ben

Hi All I have just had my car out and notices a small drip of coolant weeping from the side of the block. On inspection, it is clear that a hair line crack exists in the vicinity of the rear freeze plug under the manifold, extending upward and downwards from this location on the cylinder (barrell) seciton of the block externally. Question: Is this a common ailment for this model? Have others had the same issue previously? It is not using coolant and only leaks a few drops now and then from this location, so it is not affecting the running of the engine. I don't suspect there are any issues internally within the bores. Regards Ben

Larry There is a slight grin here from Oz, after 2.5 years of axles seal leaking, mine is on the left side generally - which must account for the southern hemisphere Leif's advice for oil level has been noted, along with the Glycerine trick! I have also moved to 250 grade oil and this has only made a small difference. Interestingly, last month when I took the wheel off to check over a couple of things and clean the brakes from oil build up, I found that the E Brake linings were up for replacement - so I hope this gives you some reassurances that it is not only yours. I am currenly running a program which avoids the use of the emergency brake, so that I don't have to replace the band!!! So far there have been no emergencies!!! Hope you will be back out on the road soon. It is turning cold here (well not really compared with Europe or US) - but I assume that things are getting warmer for you and all of this hard work will have you ready for summer... Regards Ben

Yes Leif, you are always very helpful and many thanks! Ben

Larry - how is the rest of your motor for leaks? If you won't overheating so badly I would suggest to run it without the fan belt to see that it is the front seal for sure. One would suspect it is. Ben

Bubba - you are correct. Not all 1925 models have the hose support. Ben

Good stuff Larry and Brad. There are a few owners in Oz. with 25's - but certainly not anyone close by to my area. Always feel free to PM me if you have any queries and I will help where I can. Work sometimes keeps me away for a week or two at times. Brad - 8 years is only a blink Regards Ben

Thanks Brad. Sounds like you have a great collection. I believe I can source one here in Oz. for a pattern, but appreciate your offer. I hoped that I would find an original and will continue this plight. I will also contact the previous owner of our Buick, just in case it is in a box somewhere also. He had owened it for 50+ years, so there is a chance it might still exist!? Best wishes Ben

Hi Clyde Can you tell me how the car remains in the USA as a RHD export from this period? Was it sold in Australia and made it back to USA - or never exported and used as RHD there? Happy for you to export it to me in Oz! Best wishes Ben

Yes I wondered also when I first got mine. I might make something up if no one has a spare.

Hi All Does anyone have a bottom radiator hose support - as per this photo. It stops the bottom hose from collapsing during high speed. Mine is a 1925-25X and has been disposed of, previous to my ownership. Studs are on the block for attaching. Regards Ben

I got mine from Bob's

Mine leaks slightly from behind the manifold (I think from between the head and block towards the rear) - but only a minor leak which you can seam streaming down the side of the motor, around the freeze plug - and a small drop on the splash pan. I note that the engine Leif has photographed has a similar 'leaching' of oil there to mine. I recently removed the head and took pistons out, shaved the head (which looked like someone took a belt sander too previously!), replaced the head gasket etc etc... After some 3000 miles the leak is no worse or no better there and only drops a small amount. I can't recall it leaking there before!!! Larry, I think you might be right about the leak with yours between the bore and crankcase. Mine does not leak there, so it sounds like yours is either passing compression into the crankcase, or a failed or missing gasket. I would think the latter is more likely. Best wishes Ben

...Same question as Mark, wire or atillery???

Hi Seba I recently did a re-ring here on my 1925-25x. It was 3" bore + 60 thou. The people here in Australia I bought the rings from (A$150) said they could source pistons also if I needed them. Are your existing pistons and bore no good? Re tyres, I have also put a set of BF Goodrich tyres on mine last year 6.00 X 22. This is the only size available worldwide that I could find and they look really good and perform well (for a old car on such a size wheel!) Leif - I like your 1927 radiator. Mine is original honeycomb and still seems to be a little blocked up.. Ben

Hi All Just placed the Penrite Transoil 250 into the 25x last night and did a hasty highway test run in the dark - ! (as you do). Gearbox and diff changed. This product is 250 SAE (equvilent to 600W Steam Cylinder Oil) and compared with the 140SAE which was in it, makes a very big difference to gearshift as others have suggested. Time will tell if the oil leaks from the axles stop now also. Thanks all for assistance. Ben

Thanks Mark I thought this might be the case. I note that the manufacturer I use here provides SAE 90, 140 and 250 - as does the Shell Dentax range. Using 140 will no doubt explain my crunching in neutral to first when idle, and also the continued axle leak LHS all over the wheel and brakes - even with a new seal!!! I am going straight out to buy the SAE 250 today! Ben

Hi Allan Apologies I have run off the process I use blow by blow - not knowing your own experience. I used these principles on mine when I did the cylinder head last year and everything went 100%. (I also tried to find torque settings and believe that these were not yet common place in the 1920s). You will note that the manual simply states 'firm' etc - so there is some room to move here!!! 1. Firstly it is very important to clean out the bolt holes in the block. Otherwise you can bottom out a bolt and get the wrong reading when torquing up (or even worse, snap a bolt!) You can purchase a range of products to ensure that these are properley lubed and sealed - so easy to remove next time, (I use a permatex brand which you should have in NZ). 2. Using basic mechanics 101 - you always remove and replace cylinder head bolts in ever increasing (assembly) or decreasing (dissassembly) circles. In the case of reassembly, you would start from the centre head bolts and work in a circlular motion outwards tightenting each bolt until you reach each end of the head - if you look at a holden or chev workshop manual from the 1950s or 1960s - you will find a diagram which shows this in simple form. Essentially you work from the centre outwards staggering each side of where you started until you reach the outside. 3. The tightening process is critical. The older the components, the more careful you shoudl be in stepping out the torque. For mine, I think I went to 25 ft/lb first, then 40 ft/lb, 50 ft/lb and finally 60ft/lb (so 4 runs of ever increasing circles from the centre to slowly bring the torque up to final spec). I chose 60 ft/lb based on a number iof old car specs I have experienced over the years (e.g Holden grey motor is 65 ft/lb and not than different in engineering (but slightly better quality metal). 4. Depending on the head gasket material, you may need to retention the head once it has done a few hundred miles. I do this when it is warm. Hope this helps Ben

Hi Enterprise What torque settings are you needing to know? Ben

Hi All Can anyone tell me what the correct spec is for gearbox and diff oil for my 1925-25X. I use Penrite Transoil 140, which is what is recommended by the manufacturer specifically for this model. The tech info is: TRANSOIL 140 Ideal as a rear axle oil in most Edwardian, vintage and pre war vehicles. While it can also be used as a gearbox oil, it may be too heavy in some applications. Does not contain any aggressive load carrying additives Do not use in axles fitted with any sort of hypoid gears. Typical Data Viscosity, Kinematic, cSt: at 40 degrees Centigrade = 480 at 100 degrrees Centigrade = 32.4 Any help appreciated. Ben

Hi Pete I'll measure mine up and see if yours is right. Could you send a photo - bigcrab@bigpond.com.au Thanks Ben