Buick Downunder

Thank you and Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you too! Great to hear you are doing some good miles in the Buick. It is interesting that your clutch caused build up in the starter gears as my engine is currently locking up and it isn’t the auxiliary shaft or main engine areas from what I can see. I recently replaced the auxiliary shaft and worked on starter motor so I thought it was that - but alas it it something else. I have taken the front timing cover off and all looks OK there so I suspect the clutch, ring gear or starter gears hence my query. I plan to take the motor out this week, which will no doubt be a can of worms - but everything was working pretty well before sitting so I hope it isn’t anything serious. More questions to come I suspect. Good to hear from you!

Hi All planning to pull the engine to inspect clutch and ring gear which was last serviced more than 60 years ago (at best). Clutch slips very slightly when hot and I suspect gearbox and/or rear main seal issues. What have others found in this area is the main cause for oil on clutch linings? Also, have people been reconditioning the 6 plate clutch or upgrading. I prefer to keep things standard unless there is probable cause to modify. Thanks very much - Ben.

I posted a step by step guide to setting the timing for my 1925 several years ago - whereby you follow the book to the letter, apart from advancing not retarding on the steering wheel (I think) - due to changes in Petrol quality. You don’t need a timing light and best to adjust by ear and short trial until you get it spot on. I used it again recently when my old car followed me back home and I had to remember how to do it again!

You can buy a new crank handle from Phil in Sydney Australia. He makes them in perfect spec for about $195 AUD ($150 US). Search Vintage Standard Buick Engine Cranl Handle (note typo is needed). It’s on Gumtree which is like Greys. phil also has NOS Delco S/G one way clutch housing with distributor drive and a few other parts for vintage Buick NOS.

Holden started making local changes in 1934 for tourer such as a trunk addition and then the sloper but the 1925 Buick was the same as fisher bodied US versions. This is my twin brothers Holden bodied 1934 Oldsmobile which isn’t found anywhere else in the world. 1 of 4 known to survive.

Hi All Having not worked on the Delco SG for my 1925 Standard for some time, I am finding some tricky issues have arisen, which are stopping me from advancing with the car any further. At the worst case scenario I am getting a dead short between the field and the main body, which is starting to drive me crazy! On a simple circuit test the positive battery terminal and the field are beeping as a short on the multimeter, as well as the two wires for the field (F & other end where the third brush connects) to ground, while A is not grounding and remains open circuit. I have pulled the unit down and everything is in very good order, apart from some wear to brushes, which are still 50% or greater in size. I initially thought that I might be getting an intermittent ground through the brush holder insulators, but this is not the case. There are no shorts until the earth brushes to the commutator are screwed in - which is as you would expect I guess. This morning I attempted a careful bench test and with a dowel placed in the starter hole to pivot the brush off the commutator there is no short when you connect ground to the body and a positive lead to the battery + / ammeter pole. Once you release the dowel and engage the starter brush to the commutator (without connecting the F terminal) it fires up the starter. I was not sure, but I thought it would normally require you to also connect power to the F at the same time as the Batt + pole - so not sure if this is correct or not. With the starter brush disengaged and positive connected to the Batt + pole - it is open circuit when you flash the A terminal, but the generator will (on occasion) spin up when you power up the opposite end of the field from F - where the 3rd brush connects. I have changed the field with another I have and it does exactly the same thing. Help!

Thanks for this information. I will be needing this very soon - once I solve this SG!

Yes Holden body - Woodville plant I assume.

Thanks Kevin. This is what I was thinking might be the problem. I’ve got the SG on its way out of the car again and will look closely at these insulators.

Thanks very much Hugh. I found the details on upholstery last night and very good. The hood on my car has not been serviceable for many many years and I started out in 2009 to get this fixed - but the local person here who does hood bows convinced me to change the dimensions and made a set of totally useless bows - which when I look back was probably the reason I sold it! Any information on this aspect would be appreciated as it is a bit tricky to take it out without a top as it either rains here or you get fried by the sun (or both)! Your car looks the treat and I am sure the time spent assured you have a good reliable car for many years. Mine was black all over originally and one day I’ll put it back. I agree keeping them as close to factory spec is the best approach and great to know this documentation has need written.

Yes unfortunately it all happened quickly and glad it’s back I think I’m currently refreshing my memory on Delco S/G which is now providing a dead short through the commentator to the generator side (A). Great way to cause a fire under the dash and melt the ignition switch! I am suspecting brush insulators may be the culprit as everything else tests ok until the bottom brush goes on.

HI All Having originally purchased my unrestored 1925-25X from the second owner in 2009, after he had owned it for 50+ years and had had it sitting for many decades. At the ripe old age of 86 years I was fortunate enough to get it back up and running and road registered soon after and enjoyed discussions on this forum whilst I tinkered. My car was featured in the September 2010 Buick Bugle Magazine for the 1925 Models, which tells the story of the car from that time. in 2015, I was forced to change jobs unexpectedly and I decided to put the car on the market - before telling my family what I had done. I was contacted by the children (now in their 40s) of the previous owner who had since passed away, who bought it from me the next weekend. Seven years later (late last year) the second owner's family contacted me to see if I was interested in purchasing the car back, as they were looking to sell the car - to which I immediately said 'yes!' The car was still in the spot I parked it on delivery 7 years before, but fortunately kept out of the weather for the duration in their care. I managed to get it up and running over a day or two on its return - now 96 years old and whilst showing its battle scars in places - it remains largely intact with original timber, mechanicals and original black duco (underneath the two coats of brush painting and a 1960s vacuum cleaner spray job!), which I am certain will make it to 100 without a pull down restoration. The Buick is parked back at our home in the same parking spot it used to reside in and in some respects it doesn't feel like it ever left. Some of you may remember the car? Funny enough I am using some of my old posts to remind me how to do things that I have forgotten in this time - showing how great a resource this forum is and incredibly useful. I look forward to catching up with fellow vintage owners again and certainly expect to have some silly questions as I embark on getting the car ready for rallying again.

I start my 1925 25x regularly with the hand crank. 2 turns of ‘suck’ with the choke out and ignition off. Choke turned off, fully retarded on the steering wheel and ignition on - take up to 11 o’clock on compression stroke and turn over and down swiftly. Keep you thumb under your fingers! it should start with no fuss. You should not need to do this more than once or twice and should not turn the motor over and over. the crank handle is designed to start the vehicle by the way. There were no corner shops to get a new battery or jump start in those days.

Hi All It seems it must be a normal problem for this. I have sadly just broken the ignition switch completely fell apart with contact for the ignition wires falling out all together. Similarly I can't get the assembly out of the car, so will follow these instructions, trying Leif's suggestions too. Once out of the car - I am worried that there will be parts broken inside as well as the main plate. Does anyone have spares? Regards Ben

Hi Hidden Hunter Larry tracked me down via email as I don't get on the forum as much as I should. My car has a very similar setup in RHD (Brisbane based) - It had been laid up since 1969 when I put it back on the road in 2011 and it needed a couple of things checking on the distributor among the thousand others. Agree that the manuals and master parts books will help you a lot. I got an original set at Bendigo a few years back for not a lot of money. You should make sure that the distributor retaining screw is not tightened up too firm and there should be a bush and spring (from memory) on the retaining screw that allows the distributor to roll when the level turns it. I can send pics if you need. Nothing is too tricky though. Regards Ben

Thanks Leif and Larry. I am on holidays now and will have a better look over the coming week for a replacement. I'll have a look at later 114,5" as Leif has said, as well as some modern equivalents. Regards Ben

Unfortunately the brake springs for sale with Jeff Kearney are for MASTER. I am on the hunt for one for the STANDARD if anyone has a spare? Regards Ben

Thanks Brian and Don. That gives me plenty of background to go on - unless someone knows the size of the key (I'll use the other side as a clue). It might be best to clean it up also. I can certainly sources a screw and salvage the existing retaining clip, but the spring was the main issue. I'll chase this up and see if they are still available. Many thanks fellow pre-war Buick fans. Regards Ben

Hi Rod I haven't looked at the clutch as yet! That will be next. Regards Ben

Hi Mark Thanks for this. The parts I am trying to locate is the screw, spring and flat retainer. I'll try to attach a photo.

Hi All I have finally had time to get back to look at the Buick. It has been about 3 months since it broke down. On inspection, it appears that I have blown a key in the keyway for the outer LH Hub/axle. Can anyone tell me if it is a common failing and if I should be worried about breaking a key off? Everything else looks OK. Also, I am chasing a replacement inner band (handbrake) locater screw and clip, as well as the spring which connects to this (left hand side). Mine has been rubbing between the wheel and drum and has now broken the spring. Regards Ben

Thank you everybody. This is a great help. i believe that my issue may be similar to Rods, as it was working one minute and not engaging the next, however obviously needing removal and inspection. Now, where's that spare day!? Leif, your supply of pictures is always appreciated! Regards Ben

Hi All Time has come to replace the buick clutch for the 1925-25x. It went from a slight slip which had started to appear at Christmas time (under extreme load) to a complete failure last week (no longer engages at all). I am keen to know: What is the best way to remove the clutch? Is it possible to life the engine out and leave gearbox and torque tube in-situ, or is it only possible to access the clutch by supporting the body and dropping off the diff and torque tube to access the flywheel??? Has anyone recently repaired a failed 6 disc clutch arrangement recently. Is it simply a matter or relining each plate and machining the flywheel? Is there a pressure plate or does the assembly of 6 discs fulfill this role All help appreciated. I am without my Buick until this is resolived! Regards Ben

Hi John Its great to read this thread this morning. (I have been off the air for a few months). Especially that you have found extra help from forum members, which makes all the difference! Having taken on a 1925 Tourer myself 3 years ago, which had been stored since 1969, I can truly appreciate the needs you have, which - with a slightly cautious approach to anything you do, and a lot of questions on the forum - you should have it ticking away pretty soon. These cars are simple and a lot of fun if you go about things the right way! Fuel systems take a bit to get clean when they have sat for long periods, and you may need to flush many tanks full of fresh fuel through until all of the gum and dirt disappears to the point that it is reliable. If the tank has been left empty to half full for long periods, you may find that it is corroded internally. You will see this as a fine red 'grit' which feels like sand when you pull things down. All in all, if you can get it to run and are confident adjusting the mixture and pulling the carby apart - Try to persist with short runs and see if it is improving. An in-line fuel filter can assist in the short term, but can affect the performance of the vacuum tank at higher speeds. Keep asking questions and I look forward to sharing some stories along the way. Regards Ben P.S It is getting colder her in OZ now - Down to 17C here yesterday - I assume that this means better weather ahead for friends in US? Enjoy

Hi Lief. No problems. I must add that I need to clean the 'black stuff' of the internal contacts every month or so with vaseline on a rag, which comes off easily. I assume this is the same with the originals also. Kind regards. Ben