Dodge1934

This is a very rare running board cooler that would fit on any wood running board from about 1900 to 1925. This is a galvanized metal tank surrounded by a canvas sack that would have held water. The water slowly seeped out of the bag as you travelled down the road wetting the bag. The evaporation as you travelled cooled the water and the tank. A very cool and rare item. The polar bear logo is in good shape. some of the other lettering is very faded. I was told it was of the 1912 vintage. I have not been able to confirm this anywhere but the era is certainly correct. The unit was manufactured in Denver Colorado. see pictures attached Price is $500.00 US funds plus shipping

I am looking for NOS AC plugs exactly like the one shown below. It is an early plug with wire electrodes and no number on the plug at all. Just the AC logo. it is a 7/8 plug with the extension below the threads. I am watching for NOS AC 78S plugs as well but that is not my main goal here. I am interested in 1 or a dozen what ever you have. let me know details and send pics of what you have.

Good to see a Dodge DT you are correct that there aren`t a lot of them around. They are a great driver for sure. I have a 2 door DT and love it. I hope you are able to find a good home for it.

Thanks for that list ... I don`t have it... I do have a list from 1942 that was put out by AC so that is some help as well.. I would appreciate if anybody has soemthing similar fro the late 40s or 50s Thanks again

Nice emblems hopefully somebody needs them... Do you have any original literature from 1919 specifically the McLaughlin model 63 version. Thanks

In the early days of cars Champion spark plugs were OEM for Ford products and many closely related makes. AC was the OEM for GM and many other makes not tied to Ford. As time went by I believe Autolite spark plugs became OEM for many cars. Chrysler products for sure by the 50`s Does anybody have any better information of when different manufacturers moved away fro AC and Champion as OEM? Thanks for any help

Thanks for the note. With these three engines I have everything I need for my car except time and money :-) and I do look forward to warmer weather. Other people may appreciate your note. Have you seen anything recent about a Northway engine registry?

Absolutely there was. The Model 62 and 63 cars from 1916/17 to 1921 were built with the small 6 Northway engine The 4 cylinder engine became unavailable to Mclaughlin after 1916 and it was 1921 /22 before a 4 cylinder engine was reintroduced to the buick line up.

You will be happy to know that the badge popped out quite nicley with the proper size socket and a hammer. No damage to anything. Thanks for the input

I sent you an email. I amy have what you need

Here are more pics of what I think is the older engine. the only things I am seeing as different is 1: the gear shift attachment is atmped metal rather than cast as in my transmission 2: the Fact that the transmission and bell housing are one casting rather than 2 3 The crank shaft gear is solid metal where the one that came off my engine was partly a fibre compound. I suspect this change was made to reduce the noise people comment that they hear on the northway engines. the trouble with the fibre is they ear out quickly... mine was well worn and I will likely put a solid metal one in its place and hope the modern oils will keep the gear noise to a minimum. Note: this is the first engine I have had with any indication of the original motor colour ... so I am pleased to get that.

I have a 1919 McLaughlin wich has a northway engine. Over the years I have had several engines that were all the same until I got this one. I suspect it is older but if somebody knows I would appreciate that information. The engine still looks the same but in this case the Bell housing and transmission are all one casting. On all my other engines the transmission is one casting and the bell housing is a seperate casting. Also the hole in the top of this casting is a rounded opening and all others had a flat opening The number on the block is 24588-5 Does anybody know what year this engine is?? Thanks

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See the list in the picture for the correct original spark plugs for your specialty car. Contact me to insure we have the correct plug for your car`s engine. Some years had several engine options and may need different plugs depending on which engine you have.I have 75 pcs of this A52 plug The plugs are $4.00 US Funds each plus postage from Canada.

See the list in the picture for the correct original spark plugs for your specialty car. Contact me to insure we have the correct plug for your car`s engine. Some years had several engine options and may need different plugs depending on which engine you have.I have 35 pcs of this A42 plug The plugs are $4.00 US Funds each plus postage from Canada.

See the list in the picture for the correct original spark plugs for your specialty car. Contact me to insure we have the correct plug for your car`s engine. Some years had several engine options and may need different plugs depending on which engine you have.I have 25 pcs of this A32 plug. The plugs are $4.00 each plus postage I can send pics of the actual plugs if you are interested

Neat video. You are correct. our cars will never see roads like that every. I guess we just get too fussy sometimes when It really shouldn`t matter. shine them up and get them out on the road.

Nice to see the video. that is a lot of flex for sure and my 1919 Mclaughlin has a way finer(lighter) frame than you have there. No wonder the motor mounts are always broken. In fact on mine the plate between the two rails at the front also had a crack in it too. I assumed the kids had been using it as a toy in the fields to cause the breakage but maybe not. The odometer on my may on it showed 12,000 miles on it and I think it was correct original miles

Similar but without the screw. I assume you added that to hold it in place somewhere. It seems to me the collectors usually have this ring removed.

Thanks for letting me know.

If you haven`t got the lens out it would be useful to have a helping hand when doing this job. One the screw at the base is loosened off you push the lens in and push it in a little more at the top and the bottom should come out. if you have help and the othe fellow pushes on the light casing up from the bottom and down from the top that will make it slightly out of round and easier for the lens to come out. On another point. what type of bulb are you using... the originals are not much better than a weak flashlight. I tried Halogen bulbs which some guy in the USA was making but they draw too much power for my poor generator. Even the Halogen tail lights tax the system. I believe there is a guy in the UK who is making LED lights for most vintage uses and they should be way less taxing on the generator. It is good to see your DRXX model. I think it is the first one I have seen. I see it uses the DS body style rather than the DR or DT body styles. Interesting.

This is a smaller rim wind eight day clock ( about 3 " dia. to outside of mounting flange) the last patent date is 1916. It says 8 days in the second hand circle. Other names on the face are " Detroit " and "Phinney-Walker". please see pics. The mounting flange and casing is brass. The clock would need to be gone over as the clock does not work and can`t be wound. The rim does pull out to allow changing of the time. The price is $75.00 us Funds plus shipping from Canada.

Lots of interesting points above. The end question I have is.... If you epoxy glue all the joints including all the posts so it is as stiff as possible. Will the wood eventually break as the car tries to flex. ( I assume the current epoxies are much stronger than the glues in the day) Would a touring car be less inclined to need to flex and or have wood break compared to a closed car? ( I assume a touring car may be OK to Epoxy) I also note that I can see where my steel frame for the car could certainly have quite a bit of flex. On my car the motor mounts (cast iron, hard mounted to the frame) were often broken on the engine... there was a lot of flex going on to break the engine mounts. It took several engines to find a front motor mount the wasn`t broken.

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