dmgoulet

Thanks all...

Question: Does anyone have a source or an alternative for the headlight bucket to wire harness connectors? I found a picture of what they probably look like that I have included. Thanks, Dennis

Thanks Dave. I couldn't find that picture that you posted

It will be hard to make out, but on the driver side of the frame between the rear shackle of the front spring and the running board front bracket you will/should find the frame serial number stamped. numbers are about 3/4" tall and (for me) very hard to spot.. I've attached pictures of my gauges.

My 35 truck (series 2) dash is different. glove box door and faux door on driver side is rounded ends

I have been getting some things completed. Clutch fork boot: Made a snap in ring from some thick sheet metal and found a pattern online to make the boot using g black leather. Welded holes and mating surfaces on clutch and brake pedal linkages and re-drilled/machined to operate smoothly. My dad machined a new shaft for the pedals and machined pedal bushings to solid-up the pedals. I fabricated some new front cab wood mounts from 7/8" ash board. Using two on each side (stacked) gave me a 1/4" space between the top of the frame and the lower lip of the cab. Using 1/4" oak shims at the rear cab mounts squared things up. It does look like my rear crossmember is holding the trans up too high into the cab... I will need to lower it... which means my clutch torque shaft pivot bracket will need to be modified. The joy of it all!!! I did crank the engine over via the foot starter pedal... good to see that I got that right. cranking without plugs in to circulate oil has revealed a couple oil leaks... I think it is the front and rear oil pan gaskets that are not sealing well. I'm still fitting body parts and learning how to do body work. There are some things I will need to get a professional to do... the lower cab sheet metal is rusted away... I know patch panels are available... Finances are holding me back for now. 20160605_133430.mp4

I have the lacing on the cab surface, but not on the radiator shell. I have a few screws spun in at a couple locations to account for it though

A bit of progress on the alignment. The original metal shims (as seen on bolts in previous post) is about 1/4". I kept that in-between the crossbar and the fram. I added another 1/4" shim betwen the radiator mount bracket and the crossbar (where the radiator mount 'studs' go thru the crossbar. I'll re-install a fender tomorrow and see if it looks like it will align better. Dennis

Thx... I'll try fitting with thicker shim between crossbar and frame... and see where that puts the alignment of the hood sides. Original factory parts diagrams would make this much easier. scanning thru a large list of parts and determining they are for my truck model is grueling.

Hey all, I have started aligning body panels/parts now that I believe I have my cab sitting correctly on the frame. Using two 7/8" ash boards on each front side of the cab (4 boards total) and one 1/4" oak board at the rear cab mount pads, I have about 1/4" space between the top of the frame and the bottom sill of the cab. According to the parts manual, the Front Fender Crossbar (613995) is mounted to the front crossmember with bolts (600553) and shims (604741). What I have for the shims are flat metal stock about 1/8" thick and have no number on them. When the radiator assembly is put in place and the front fenders are bolted in place, I am running into some fitting problems. The lower 1/2 distance of the hood side panels rubs against (and nearly overlap) the lip where it meets the cab. The top panels fit fine, and since the radiator has some position adjustment, the hood panels mate up fine. It appears the whole front assembly needs to come up about another 1/8", but Im not sure 'where' the space needs to be added. 1. Since the holes in the fenders for the bumper mounts is nearly spot-on, raising the Crossbar would affect that. 2. If I add shims in-between the Crossbar and the Radiator mount, that may affect how the fenders meed up with the Grill housing. Does anyone have information on what is supposed to be installed for aligning this? Are the shims for the Crossbar just 1/8" flat stock like I have? Is there supposed to be shims between the Radiator mounting bracket and the Crossbar? Has anyone else resolved this issue and care to elaborate? Thanks Much Dennis. Ive attached some photos to show the parts.

I have a 35 KC. it has one oiler...the other is a plug covering the felt wick (to remove/replace it) Dennis

You are welcome

I bought an NOS one from Vintage Power Wagons

Hmm.. didn't know there was a place in Arkansas.... thanks for that info. I'll have to check them out.

That's the 'spirit'

I found some new ones on ebay (for generator and starter)

I've got a few items taking up space in my garage. A Plymouth transmission (either '33 or '34) Shock absorbers from a '34 Plymouth A front axle (tubular) from a '34 Plymouth I don't know what they are worth. If interested in any, I will post photos.

D5 motor is a 1937, however the Web site I 'edited' into my previous post didn't indicate the engine stats

Awesome!

The engine number (found on the driver side of the engine) will be the start. Then go to this page (http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/otherengines.php ) and scroll down to the part where they describe the starting letter of the engine number...click on the link that corresponds to your starting letter. Mine starts with T538, meaning it is a 230 cu in motor from a 1957 K6 series truck. I'm not 100% original on my truck either, but trying to be close enough ( with some performance improvements like dual carbs and an electronic ignition mod for 6v system, adding a Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve, and of course a larger engine than stock).

I was doing 70 mph on I-40 with my truck (a 230cid engine with stock 3 spd, but with a 68 coronet rear end). I got pulled over by Arizona Hwy Patrol because he said I was speeding...and he expected to find a V8 under the hood.

Gotta love those nostalgic photos.

Oh yeah that was a few weeks ago we were discussing that. Anyway, Dave, do you have the ignition coil lock and cable similar to what I described a few posts up? If so, what are you asking for it? Dennis

I'm confused now. I was commenting about the key switch for the coil. Not sure where the running board/skirt topic came into play ☺

I know it needs to be around 12 to 14 inches long, and the hole in the dash is 1". I cannot see how the key switch secures to the dash face. Maybe a nut on the face like a aftermarket switch or maybe secured to the instrument cluster bracket. The bracket has a 1" hole for the key switch with a keyway notch at the bottom.