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dmgoulet

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Everything posted by dmgoulet

  1. Does anyone know where to get the ignition coil lock switch and cable that would work in my truck?
  2. Awhile back there was discussion about the clutch torque shaft mount on the front face of the bell housing. This is what I put together. It looks like it will work just fine. Maybe even stylish enough for the era? Dennis
  3. He explained that the KCL extra length I'd at that point...thus the longer plates
  4. Not a whole lot of progress, but some none-the-less. Got the driveshaft rebuilt (again managed to find enough parts to build one). I also actually had the wrong front engine support bracket... I think it was from a plymouth. Instead of a flat top edge, it was rounded down forming a cradle. I had a makeshift front mount that I made many moons ago that wasnt right either. I cut the top section off of that one and spliced it into the top of the plymouth one. Not perfect, but it will work just fine. Dennis Note: pay no attention to my messy garage... its about one car width too small, and too many projects going on.
  5. Great info Dave. Thanks.
  6. I guess that info DOES answer the question of the apron straps. Is the frame being scrapped or is it sold? Cuz I'd be interested in the bell housing support cross member. I also noticed the fuel tank on your truck is round, whereas mine is oval. Any comment as to why? Another thing is that this frame is a bit different than mine, the plates top and bottom at the center X is rectangle and my frame has a plate with curved sides. Thanks for all the great photos...I'll download them to my reference folder on my 'puter.
  7. Ah... okay.. I still have one of their catalogs. When I come across something I need that was in that catalog, I'll hit you up.
  8. I got this same article from a gentleman I met at the Pomona swap meet many years ago. He had a reproduction business called Ram Enterprises in El Monte, CA. I haven't been able to determine he or his business is still around. His name was Les Coddington. He had a 34 or 35 truck that was modified so that the cab roof came off. This was in early to mid 1990s.
  9. Does anyone make aftermarket clutch fork boots? Or will I need to make something?
  10. Thanks. It does fit in the slot on the floorboard above the hole for the shift lever. I think it is standing a bit too upright which is why I may need to make longer linkages.
  11. I've been working on a solution to using a foot activated starter as the original had. I didnt have any of the original parts (as usual). I did have a bell housing that was from a later model, however the foot starter it had was much different (for a different cab). I located a foot starter, and a starter motor (both off of a 33 dodge engine). I started by shaving off the pivot point on the later model bell housing because it was in the approximate location that the base of the '33 starter pedal needed to be. I made a U bracket to cradle the starter pedal. Ive got to get the cab back in place and determine the travel needed for the pedal. I think i will need to make longer linkages between the starter shift fork and the starter pedal.
  12. It's kinda bugging me about those straps... if not utilized on the 2nd Series KC, what did they connect to on the 1st Series? The frame is the same (except for maybe cab mounts) as well as the fenders and running boards. Inquiring minds MUST know!!
  13. Ok, I'm working on fitting the running boards to the frame... I had to rework the brackets that support the running boards as the front ones were angling down about an inch or so. Before getting the front fenders into position I need to secure the bracket that is under the radiator and that the fender supports mount to. Is there any insulators between the frame and this bracket or any kind of spacer? I noticed that there is supposed to be some sort of felt strip that runs along the top edge of the running board skirt. Is it mostly to stop metal to metal contact with the bottom of the cab? Also, since my running boards are warped and splitting in the middle, I bought some reproductions that look just awesome. The original are connected to the skirt with some sort of rivet. Would one recommend pop rivets as a replacement or recommend something else? Thanks on advance for advice. Dennis
  14. Surf City, the Second Series KC used the rear mount like my truck has. I am unsure as to the reason for the crossmember that is just forward of the bell housing. The earlier series KC had the rear crossmember that was crossed above the trans just aft of the bell housing. I assume the later style was more serviceable than the earlier.
  15. Dave... exactly. My point is that there is little documentation available (with illustrations) for these antique vehicles. And there are fewer and fewer grease monkeys from the Era with the knowledge.
  16. I know!!! My 97 Dakota is complicated... but heck, I worked on F-16s... with good documentation and the right tools anything can be worked on
  17. I thought older vehicles would be less complicated!!! <grin>
  18. Thanks for the info. It would be interesting to see if any other vehicle using these aprons had utilized the straps.
  19. Great! Thanks. Kinda strange that nothing was done to either connect the straps or eliminate them. Dennis
  20. Dave, I guess they are called 'skirts' that are just inboard of the running board and go upward ( hiding the frame ). If you look at my last photo, about halfway down the 'skirt' upper edge there is a strap that overlaps the top of the frame. and at the very end (where the rear fender will meet) there is another strap. The middle strap nearly lines up with a hole in the top of the frame. I am assuming this would 'mount' here somehow (bushing? rubber pads?) but not sure since these were never connected (just dangling) ever since I got the truck. The back strap isnt long enough to reach the frame. Did it mount to something else? Both straps have about a 1" hole at the end that would meet up with something. Hope you can see what Im talking about! Dennis
  21. Since I have been getting more involved with following postings online here at AACA, I thought it would be good to show my project progression. Here are some photos. The black & white multiple pictures is back in 1963ish when my dad replaced the original engine with a 286 Chevy small block I am the younger of the two boys. Then a photo of the engine sitting in the frame... My dad and I made the rear supporting crossmember from parts (some from another AACA member). I rebuilt this engine (1948 model 230 cid) while I was in the USAF) Then a photo of my frame just after returning from being powder coated. It looks just awesome! Then a photo of the engine back in the frame. Then another photo of the crossmember my dad and I made but looking at it from underneath. And finally a picture of the inside of the cab sitting on the frame showing transmission fit... I think it will work out alright. Ive got the cab back off the frame. I have a newer bellhousing that I need to modify to fit the correct foot-starter pedal so that it aligns right with the starter. ************************ Now for a Question!!!! ******************** I set the running board on its perches and am wondering about the straps coming from the 'skirt' to the top of the frame. It looks like they should line up with some holes in the top of the frame (they're off a bit)... did these bolt directly to the frame with rubber padding? Any info is greatly appreciated. The last picture should be of the running board on the frame. Thanks, Dennis
  22. I know in California that the DMV would stamp the engine number near there since the engine number was used for registration
  23. Thanks! I do have that assembly. I didn't have the rear crossmember to hold up the rear of the engine/trans. I fabricated one from pieces of others bases on photos from another 35 KC. I wasn't sure if I was correct on my fabrication because of how other items were aligning to the motor in that position... but I actually think I am closer to original than I thought
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