drdon

No . I forgot to say I did that. Turned over normally- just did not even try to start. A good friend and former dental patient who overhauled an engine for me gave me the tip- “ if it is like an old Willys then check this”.

Ok this was one of the worst exercises in futility in my life. My newly restored Coupe Express just quit starting. Yes I figured it out but dang this problem was really well hidden- especially since I am not a mechanic. So what hoops did I jump through? 1. I replaced the carb with a spare. Nada Went back to original. 2. I, one at a time, replaced points, rotor, condenser, cap and coil. Checked points gap and adjusted. 3. when I had it at top dead center on flywheel ( late in the game) the rotor did not point at #1. ????? So what did I ignore? i will tell you in a day or two but who knows what was wrong?

I think the fuel filter was the answer. On inspection I found fine sediment in the float bowl- had to come from somewhere! installed an inline fuel filter last week. So far so good. Thanks....

Chris: duh I need to find out what that is.

Here is one really stumping me. My recently finished 37 CE really isn’t. i am having problems with float needle and seat. I have tried 3 different needles- 2 NOS, and 3 different seats. No matter what combination I use, I get a stuck open needle and gas running out of the top of the float chamber. But only now and then not all the time! i have also rechecked the float for proper position in the bowl by measuring to equal recommended setting. The fuel pump is original engine driven pump so it seemingly can’t be too powerful. WTF! HELP! I don’t want to burn this thing up going down the road.

Chris just went through this with my CE. For sure attachments on fender but no logical place on frame. I built new rods and installed them instead. Can send pic if you want. Anybody can help out there? 37s2de: Yes the shields can fit but apparently not every vehicle. Different than the dog bone rods.

Yes yours is exactly like the one I robbed from my Coupe. How much and lets do it!

This is banjo fitting with stripped female end.

I finally found it last night in parts catalog. Duh. Yes I need just the fitting picture 15 part # 185171. Broken fork tine is ok- in fact my stripped one did not ever have a fork aligner on it but the one I robbed from my Coupe did. Hmm. Email me Drdon1111@aol.com if you find one. No bolt needed I think as the one from the stripped fitting seems fine. Anyone recommend new copper crushed washers? One or two?

I have a stripped unusable banjo fitting as one of the VERY last items to get my restored CE on the road. Have banjo fittings because I used a 6A frame in restoration. Right now I robbed one from my Coupe. Any ideas out there. I see gobs of them online but do not know what might fit. To complicate things I cannot find banjo fitting in parts catalog.

Taken care of by Stephen Allen LLC!

Tom You da man! tomorrow!

Bought GL-1 Ford Tractor gear oil (90w) at Tractor Supply. Thanks all.

Another question in the same week? I just topped off my mostly dry Coupe Express differential to keep going on getting it on the road after many years. Hoo Boy- most ran right back out, overnight, out of the front drive train seal. 1. Can I get a new seal? 2. Where? 3. Is replacing the seal a pro job best left to a mechanic or can I do it? 4. Was going to top off the tranny/od today. Now, instead, should I replace that seal as well.? 5. Finally, while at it, should I replace the rubber u-joints which look fine to the naked eye but - - - - . If so, with what? Thanks all, Don

What about Sta Lube 85-90 GL-4? Heard about it on another site.

What is the recommended gear oil for 1937 trans w o.d. 90? 140? I read a lot of variance. PS: sticking with GL4.

Robert, you would know more than me but I have been told some of the old paper filters are not safe as they can disintegrate. I have 3 around for my 1937s, but converted to the dummy Chevelle filter that fits inside the original filter tank.

Ok I got the first problem with the installation of the old style bulb and reflector headlights. Now, another problem- actually two. 1. I cannot get the bulb to turn into the base which is installed already i to the reflector. Even with “bulb grease” it just won’t turn and seat. I am afraid I will break the bulb and cut my fingers if I push any harder. Tip anyone? 2. The wiring harness is a repop from Rhode Island Wiring- RIW. In addition to #1 above, i cannot get the parking light bulb installed in the reflector. It won’t fit- seems to big. Does the metal end of the harness go into the small offset hole in the reflector? I have two sets of reflectors and this parking bulb in doesn’t fit any of them. Wrong end from RIW? Help!! PS: I don’t know if it matters but this is a 1937 Riteway setup.

Hey everyone: My 37 Coupe Express is finally 99.9% done. What is left is installation of the headlight reflectors and lenses which I have and am switching back to from the sealed beams. Ok, I can install the sealed beams but haven’t the foggiest on the traditional. So there are 2 parts- the reflector (resilvered) that holds the two bulbs and the glass lens- separated by a cork gasket. So how do I get the two to stay together while installing into the bucket or do the springs in the bucket hold them together? Secondly, how does the retaining screw in the bottom of the bucket hold it in place since there is no screw hole like in the sealed bulb setup? Thanks to anyone who can help!!

Gary Belatedly here is a poor picture.

Yes for me.

Looks like a good candidate for Shrock Brothers. They did my 37 CE, it is like new.

Yes Iwill get a pic

Gary, I have 3-4 old instrument panels lying around and worst part is the speedo face. My CE has an original in exquisite condition with no yellowing. However I think I would like an insurance policy so how do I get the do re me to you. Plus might make the spares desirable to sell.

Richard Quinn- get well very quickly!