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c49er

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Everything posted by c49er

  1. If you want good rubber search "Steele" rubber products.
  2. I only buy the commercial quality shop equipment- No DIY stuff for me or my business! 12,000lb lifts or higher!
  3. Eric, The pics of the 1946-8 chrysler are of the same car -my C39 48 T&C 8 cylinder convertible. The X member should be the same for all 41-8 Chryslers- but the wheel base and fluid drive/overdrive/vacamatic models would possibly cause some dimension changes. A Town and Country convertible uses a standard NewYorker convertible frame too. The pics were taken with the cars up on the lifts. The N-Yorker is on a high lift. Bob
  4. Here is a picture of a 1950 Chrysler hardtop/convertible NewYorker X frame. I'll try to post a pic of a 48 T&C Conv X frame too. 1946-8 are different frames than the 49-52 Conv. frames. The X member section is very Heavy duty in both early and late cars. I know this because I have both styles. Only Chrysler 8 cylinder Hardtops use the convertible frames-No Windsor 6 cyl. hardtops had a convertible frame. Bob Here also is the Chrysler 1946-8 Convertible X member frame- also very heavy duty thick steel . 1941-2 similar but different because of trans and WB.
  5. What is it you need to know exactly, maybe someone has your answer. Not many people have these really old shop/ parts books. I have a friend who's wife has the book you need the info out of but he has passed on and cannot get at the Chiltons frame book. I have 2 1946-8 New yorker frames/convertibles. Bob
  6. Be careful to visually checking on a used replacement M-6 transmission. 1949-early 50 have a brake band on the rear brake drum. Late 1950 on up to 53 have a brake drum with internal brake shoes. They will not easily interchange because of the E-brake cable is different. Watch out for differences of the rear brake drum U-joint yoke. Chrysler/DeSoto and Dodge all use different style U-joints, meaning a drum swap is necessary. Also the date and model of the car the trans is from is stamped on the case by the shift cover. I have seen many of these M-5/M-6 transmissions that have worn out input shaft/ direct speed blocker ring and sleeve banging or popping out of high range. Used to repair a lot of them over the years. Quick way to make sure it's not an electrical issue is to drive the car with NO wiring hooked up and if it upshifts fine then , you know the internals of the trans are ok. NOTE- it will not shift down till you come to a complete stop and wait a few seconds with the clutch held in. Bob
  7. I just looked at my 1946-8 Chrysler shop manual and looked in the frame section. Shows frame dimensions of all models except- convertible! I even have a 1947 C39 Town and Country convert frame but it's kinda hard to get to. Bob
  8. 1949-52 Frames are completely different than C38 6 cylinder and C39 8 cylinder 46-8 cars. The 8 cylinder frame is heavier gauge and longer that the 6 cylinder also.
  9. Jumper cables are too small/-most likely and or bad/too small 12 volt battery cables.
  10. I measured a 48 6 and 8 cylinder damper across the flats of the damper and it measured approx. 6-1/2". The OD of both was about 7-1/2". I think your good to go with a 6 cylinder damper. They both look the same. Bob
  11. To remove and replace the damper you need to remove radiater. Then remove the (6) 1/2" bolts that hold the damper and pully to the crank hub. You should not need to remove the large crank nut to remove the damper. I believe the dampers between the 6 and 8 cylinder interchange-I'll try to measure some later. I can't check by part# as they were sold as a hub and damper assembly only. Bob
  12. Nice 1950 Chrysler steering wheels are kinda pricey and VERY hard to find! I spent a lot of $$$ on this one after a night or bartering and a bit of drinking!
  13. "8" cylinder fluid couplings are different then the 6 cylinder couplings. Up to 1948 also have a wider 1/2" ring gear and 1949 up have a 3/8" ring gear. Bob
  14. All 6 and 8 cylinder M-5 transmission input shafts are the same length and part #. 6 and 8 cylinder transmissions interchange except the need to change the rear drum and or the U-joint yoke. Bob
  15. The M-5 and M-6 transmissions will always upshift immediately with no transmission harniss wiring hooked up. Without the wiring hooked up you will have to come to a complete stop and wait a few seconds with the clutch pushed in and wait for trans oil pressure to drop off letting the direct speed blocker ring and sleeve pull back into low range. The 6V wiring is needed to cause the trans to properly upshift and down shift under all driving conditions by letting trans oil pressure rise and drop off. Bob
  16. Ticking straight 8 Chrysler noises from the exhaust manifold area usually means a cracked exhaust manifold at the center section down low and at the back of the manifold in a thinner area of the manifold-and is very hard to see. Bob
  17. Never heard of a M 10. 1946-8 Chrysler/DeSoto's used a M 5 hydraulically operated transmission.
  18. The KD switch in the carb might not be working. Use a test light or ohm meter on it. Light will come on and go off as you push the button. Same for the ohm meter. Meter will show a reading with plunger in/out. If nothing happens carb will have to come apart to service it. Are you sure the linkage is pushing the plunger in all the way at wide open throttle? Is the wiring good/proper and clean looking? The factory shop manual tells it all. Bob
  19. I kinda remember that the woodie for sale online a while back for $125,00 or more ?
  20. You should get the factory shop manual for your car. There are plenty of reprints available online.
  21. Try Dennis Bickford- of Vintage Woodworks.He's the T&C guy! He can rebuild your convertible T&C door latch. Make sure your striker is correct too.
  22. Here is some info, Model 382=C38-Windsor Body 2=Club coupe Paint16= Regal Maroon Trim15=Maroon and Tan Broadcloth R 1=This is the radio code for Philco 8 tube Model 802 A 2=type of antenna-2=Concealed cowl manual,left side A Your tag shows no numbers "HR"for heater#'s, CL#'s for clock and TR#'s for signals/E-brake light/ or spot lights. "TO" is code for Conv. top color "LU" is code for luggage rack "RD" is for refrigeration unit "KI" is Kilometers Bob
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