Hudsy Wudsy

Someone is selling a 17" artillery on ebay that they indicate is for a Dodge. I'm familiar with the 17" Ply wheels and the different 16" wheels for Chrysler products, but I've wondered what Dodge 17'' wheels looked like. Is this correctly described as a Dodge wheel? If so, would this be for '33 and '34? http://www.ebay.com/itm/1930s-17-Dodge-Mopar-Artillery-Wheel-Hot-Street-Rat-Rods-/351293394029?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Wheels&hash=item51cab7cc6d&vxp=mtr

In regards to importing a car like this, is there any complication in that it doesn't have a title?

I'm sure that you're 100% right about slow. Even though the Dodges had six cylinder engines, rather than Divco's four, they probably both had rear ends geared for creeping down alleys. The Divcos are cute, too, but the Dodge grill on the snub nose front end is delightful, isn't it?

Here's a link to a somewhat unusual listing on Craigslist (eastern Montana). Someone is selling an interior for a '40 Windsor. It looks nice enough, I guess, but it seems a bit pricey. But, so too, is a new interior. Maybe there's a chance someone here could make use of it: http://montana.craigslist.org/pts/4849884687.html

Here's a link to a Craigslist ad for a '48 or later Dodge route van for sale by someone in eastern Montana. Remember, Montana almost always always means great sheet metal: http://montana.craigslist.org/cto/4806727291.html

You know, guys, I was going to just throw out there that this blue has a fair amount of red in it. If you start out with a dark blue, and add red to it incrementally, you begin to eventually head towards violet and purple. (That's overly simplistic, but it sort of helps make my point). Ken's car is gorgeous, but you have to study his color choice closely to be sure that you'll continue to like it after you see other cars with truer blues on them. I would encourage someone to apply a sample of this color to some available surface and look at it in different light for a while to make sure that they truly liked it enough to put it on their own car.

Also, "coup" is actually spelled "coupe".

Which is on the other side of the bell housing.

Pawpaw, you might also look in your owner's manual regarding the possibility of a vacuum clutch as an option. I'm really foggy on this point, but I thought that Hill Holder worked on the master cylinder. Am I just making that up, guys? Hill Holder was a popular Studebaker option, if I recall right.

This is just speculation on my part, but if I had to guess, I'd say that this is a remnant of a vacuum clutch. I had a '48 Chev which had a vacuum clutch, so they must have still been available as an option on some cars at that point. I think Hudson offered them on some models right up to '52. I had a friend that had a '32 Chev which still had a lever on the passenger side of the bellhousing - similar to yours, so, as an option, they had a long life. I imagine that in time they became a leaky nuisance for a lot of folks, thus everything was removed but the arm on the cross shaft. You might check to see if a vacuum clutch was an option on your Nash, but I'm inclined to think that it was.

Dodge Dee 2, someone must have had vapor lock problems with your car in the past as they have installed a formidable looking heat shield in front of the carburetor. That's not a bad idea so I'm not suggesting that you do away with it. I, myself, haven't had a great deal of experience with electric fuel pumps. I don't know if they eliminate vapor locking problems entirely or if they play much of a role there at all. The one thing I do know about vapor lock issues with old cars is that it's important that the point where the fuel line enters the carburetor should be the highest point in the whole run from the tank to the fuel pump to the carb. I imagine that in time you will mount the fuel pump in the rear and the rise of the fuel line prior to the carb will be corrected. I'm speaking for many others when I tell you we want to see more pictures of your car. I'm curious to see the details of the body design!

You have a Stromberg carburetor with a manual choke. I don't wish to talk down to you here, but it's important to know that the choke enriches the fuel/air mixture in order to get the engine to fire up initially, but needs to be moved to the fully open position relatively soon afterwards. In fact, as soon as the engine will continue to run without it being on. To leave it closed or even somewhat closed will cause the engine to run too rich and thus foul up spark plugs with carbon. I don't care for the electric fuel pump placement, either. It should be near the fuel tank as Rusty stated, but it probably isn't the immediate issue with your engine running rich.

When I posted this yesterday, I didn't think about the possibility (perhaps likelihood) of your car being an export model. It could have come with a manual choke, after all. The answer to that is a simple one,...does your car have a knob on the dash that needs to be pulled out in order for the engine to fire when cold? Such a knob would have a big letter "C" on it. It's important in other ways for you to know whether your car was a factory built export model, or a conventional model built for our domestic market that was imported to your country at some point in the past. I seem to recall that models built for export came with the smaller Plymouth engine, thus it likely had a Carter Ball and Ball carburetor and a manual choke. I think the export Dodges had a distinctive model number, perhaps something like D2X. I hope someone with a better memory than mine will chime in on some of these points that I'm making. A conventional domestic model D2, on the other hand, came with a somewhat larger engine than the export models (201 cid, if I recall correctly) and a Stromberg EXV -2 carburetor with the electric choke. The Stromberg model number "EXV-2" is fairly visible on the side of the carburetor's base. I suggest that you will want to check the title or registration paperwork for your car to see what model is indicated thereon. This is also a good time to check the model number of you engine. It's stamped on a flat surface high on the side of your engine block near the front, above the generator. I almost said that it was on the driver's side of the engine, but I realized that we haven't even talked about which side is the driver's side. Please share that little detail with us, as well.

If the car is original, it has an electric choke. The fault may well lie there. It certainly sounds like your Dodge is running rich, when it is running, and probably flooding when attempting to start it cold. Others with more time will chime in on how to inspect the choke.

Here's a photo I copied from another thread on this forum. This Essex has functioning landau bars. One might presume that imitation ones would be mounted in a manner that would reflect these.

Hudson ranked number three in sales in '29. I'm reminded that some gentlemen were recently discussing which way fake landau arms should be mounted to most resemble real ones. Perhaps the answer lies here.

Honestly, I thought this was going to be a joke. Like what's a Henway? (hen weigh)

Someone in Milwaukee has a grille for a '37 eight cyl on Craigslist: http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/pts/4782554352.html

I often times look at creations like this one and think to myself, "Geez, if only all of that energy and creativity could be used in the service of mankind." And then I laugh at myself for being so pretentious and say, "Well, it's not like this guy could find a cure for ebola."

By all means, start with Wayne's diagnosis first. I, too, have found that ground cables can "look" like they have clean connections, but simply don't! Also, because the starter is turning you might think that the connections are sufficient, but substantial current can be lost there, nevertheless. I also have run into this more than once.

Here's a link to a Craigslist ad for a Chandler body for sale by someone in South Dakota. I don't know anything about it: http://sd.craigslist.org/cto/4734920907.html

I just found out that it's for a '65 Mustang 6 cyl. Would any of you know whether that means '65 and '66 only, or if that goes up to '68?

Guys, I hate to be a mooch, but if there is a chance that one of you would have the time to look up this part number (C5ZZ-8005-C) and tell me it's correct application, I would be very grateful. It would be a big help to me getting this radiator into the hands of some one who can use it. I understand if no one can help, it's busy time of year. Thanks to all for reading my post!

It sold for $20,500.

For those of you who looked at this thread a while back, this auction has no gone into it's "live" state. The bid is currently at $15,500. I'm having a little difficulty navigating the proxibid site, so I don't know when it closes.