Landman

Gary, they were present on my parts car. I'll look araound to see if I have another, but I doubt it. Look at the third picture on post #419 on the previous page. There are two there both with broken tips. If you think you can cobble one from that, they're yours.

The sunvisor studs mount in a socket above the windshield when the visor is facing front. When it swivels to the side it mounts in a socket above the door. The socket is held in a block of wood which is attached to the roof rail. I obtained a cardboard template of a sunvisor in order to make a hardboard mockup. I used that to find the position of the block above the door using an original. I then made up two new blocks. While rummaging for the original block, I found a cleaned up and painted armrest plate and an untouched one. Used the old wood of the unrestored plate to make two new ones. Next, I'll clean and paint the second plate. Probably had started that sometime back, got sidetracked and put it away until I found it today. I wonder how many more things I forgot like that.

Got a bit of time in the shop today. Since the locking door handle is toast, I decided to install two unlocking handles until I find a locking one. Both suppliers who have them are out. One of the handles had a badly rusted shaft. Filled the pits with weld and filed the shaft to its shape, then gave it a shot with the emery cloth. Ditto with one of the sunvisor studs. Packed everything and will mail to the platers tomorow. That will complete the chrome work. Also, paid a visit to the painter's and lo and behold they have started on the parts that are there.

They are gorgeous Bernie. Good design work!

Thanks guys, much appreciated. It has been a long haul. Lots to do yet.

The crest on the ashtray cover looks like Packard.

That would have bee David Entler. 10903 N.Main St. Ext, Glen Rock PA, 17327-8373. There are others:You can try these guys: Jim Rodman 1931-36 Wood Kits and Separate parts, Box 86 Wheeler Street, Hanna, IN 46340 (219) 797-3775 Classic Wood, 1006 Raleigh St. Greensboro, NC 27405 Woodworking, restoration wood all years. Ph (1-336-691-1344) New Era Motors POB 578 Brush Prairie, WA 98606 Woodworking, painting, Body metal restoration. Ph (1-360-573-8788) David J. Entler Restorations - 10903 N. Main St. Ext - Glen Rock, PA 17327-8373 - Quality Chevrolet wood 1933-36 Cars and Trucks. Kits and separate pieces. Classic Wood Mfg. - Mr. Goodwood - 1006 Raleigh St. - Greensboro, NC 27405 - Chevrolet wood for 1925-36 cars and trucks. Complete kits available on some models and partial kits on others. Original patterns needed for missing components. 15 years experience. and here's a few good pages with lots of info and links for early chevy stuff

Tinus, I used white Ash as it seems to be the most popular wood for that sort of thing. However I'm told GM used other types such as oak and maple if they were available or easier to get. Sure you can add me as a friend.

I would feel the same way.

Not much to report. Received the locks all rekeyed with the barrels removed except for the door handle which was seized somehow. Now I can send that bunch of small parts to get chromed. Nothing from the painter yet. I'm starting to wonder if he'll do it this year. The upholsterer has received the seat kit but is very busy himself, so more delays to be expected there. Oh well, that'll give me time to go out and work to pay for all this and if I'm lucky spend the winter reassembling everything.

Tinus, I'll try to help you anyway I can. You'll al;so find hundreds of very knowledgeable people here:VCCA Chat - Forums powered by UBB.threads™. Kepp us posted.

Mallory, I hope I didn't scare you the other day but if you take it one part at a time, you'll make your way through. It's just that some of the steps are more expensive than others and like me you'll have to save a bit, then do it. Get all the manuals you can find about your car, sales booklet, shop manual, parts book and whatever else is available. Join the MG club and check all the forums including the British car one below. You'll find hundreds of knowledgeable people out there more than willing to guide you along.

It was in bad storage but there is something to say about completeness. Not to p***in your Corn Flakes, but expect five figures starting with at least a two to get her presentable. It can be done, believe me.

Dave, go to your woodworking store and look at the router bits. The ogee shape is common.

Received the graining kit and started fooling around with it on a spare cluster bezel. You have to be absolutely straight with the roller in both picking up the grain from the plate and laying it down on the part, no overlap either way. We'll get it somehow. Found a small crack on the corner of the dash . Welded it up & primed it. Tested my wiper motor using the brake booster vacuum line on my truck. Both a newer old truck. 2008 with just under 52,00Km, about 30,000 miles. Laid some varmish on my daughter's shelf.

If Dave the wave and Flop got together, they would put all the other shows right out of business.

That is because our immigrant ancestor, the one who left France in 1658 to go somewhere else , got on a ship with a drunken captain who ended up here instead. LOL.

Ben, Do you actually have winter in South west Missouri?

The Matra Simca Bagheera was also center driven.

Mark, this man certainly has the talent and the skills, whether he has the time is another story. http://forums.aaca.org/f190/1929-ford-coupe-rusty-solid-325465.html

Steve, if the rest of the car looks anything like that dash, you the man.

Ditto!

It also has the profile of a Mercedes 500 or 540K.

When it is all painted and completed I plan to take it back to the farm and do what you suggest. I have several photographs which might help me place it where it was by the outline of the trees. In the 10 years or so since I picked it up, there has been some work done there . All traces of my grandfather's old buildings have been erased and possibly the old well beside which the car sat all those years too. The current owner uses the place as a campground for his family. As far as photos go, I'd like to take a photo of the completed car and have the same photo of my dad in post #41 ghosted in it. Received notice from Hampton Coach that the seat kit had been shipped to the upholsterer. Had a call from the locksmith saying that he is almost done. I'll be able to send the rest of the small parts to the platers. I also ordered a woodgraining kit from Grainit Technologies in Florida. I checked with the painter to see when he wanted me to bring the rest and he still isn't ready for it. So my hopes of reassembling this fall likely won't materialize. Today, I have to build a shelf for my daughter's hair salon. So there likely won't be any work on the car.

Wow! A full day in the shop! No contract work, no yardwork, no honey-do work just plain old puttering. I got around to fixing something I had been putting off. When I did the frame, I had changed a crossmember (Posting #70). I had found that the threaded holes in the plates inside the frame had been stripped so I had enlarged the holes and installed the crossmember with nuts & bolts. Later, when I was chasing the leak in the rear of the engine, I found that with the body on, the clutch/brake shaft in place, the battery box, it was a hell of a chore to remove the crossmember because I couldn't reach inside so easily anymore. The same gentlemen who had helped me adjust the valves suggested to leave the bolts there but tack them to the frame. So I did that today. The other day when I drove the car outside for the first time, I had a bit of a time getting it into gear to come back. My son in law suggested getting rid of some of the free play in the clutch pedal. Did that too. Took it for another test drive to the end of the drive, problem solved. Discovered that the gas pedal rod didn't open the throttle fully when it was fully depressed. Adjusted that too. Gave it about 3/4". Set the idle speed as well. Now that the leak is cured, I reinstalled the flywheel pan. Installed the speedometer cable at the transmission & routed it up and behind the dash. Started installing the plates and seal around the steering column & pedals.