Landman

I second that. I have a fondness for Studies having owned a GT Hawk in the mid 90's.

Chris, have you noticed how you get very cozy with given suppliers during projects like this? I'm almost on a first name basis with a couple of Chevy suppliers.

I agree with Keiser. Neat, clean work. Coming right along.

Thet sell; rivet headed bolts. that's what I'm going to use with my inner fenders.

It probably was thinking that as it sat there for 50 years. At least it spent the last 12 inside.

Got the call from the body shop yesterday :"Bring the car!". So this morning , with the help of my neighbour, we pushed it along the sidewalk the 800 feet or so to his shop. Then removed the rods and regulator boards from the doors and took the stripped doors over.

Namvet, these people did my instruments for a very reasonable price. Williamson's Instrument Service - Best Service,Quality and Price !.

Thanks Paul. It's a long ways from done. Plenty of postings to come yet! :cool:

Have you figured out what kept it from starting?

Found out that the Fisher Body plates I had redone in posting #465 have other colors than black. I got into some really tiny stuff with this. Now I have an inkling as to how Roger feels. A friend sent me a photo of the correct license plate bracket. My rear one is correct but the front one has obviously been cobbled. Repainted the ones I have as well as the mirror. Will be on the lookout for the correct bracket. I found that the clutch pedal was rubbing on one of the plates that surrounds the pedals and the steering column. Gave it the necessary clearance with a die grinder. The felt will pick up the slack.

Make sure you don't get that shop dirty now!

You pics didn't catch.

Just went through your photos. Thanks for sharing.

Thanks Fred, I have since discovered that there is a small plate inside the mount that compresses the ball as the screws are tightened. I had it on with only one screw for the photo, so that was why it flopped around.

I think I'll start by standing the part on end and filling that cavity with penetrating oil and letting it soak for a while.

Continued putting the headlights together. The buckets were cracked around the rivets under the mounting plate so the plater had to drill out the rivets in order to silver solder all the cracks. Then he made me some bolts (like rivet headed bolts) out of some carriage bolts and plated them. I mounted the reinforcement plates today and attached the stanchions with the new acorn nuts just for the hell of it. I think it looks pretty good. The only fly in the ointment is that one of the stanchions has a broken bolt in it that both I and the plater missed. I'll try to extract it without scratching everything but I may have to bite the bullet and get another one plated.

By the way, ply33, that is quite the website you have there. Very thourough and well done!

Thank you.

As my wife has started restoring some bookcases she built some 20 years ago and has them scattered all over the garage I had to find a clean job. So I started assembling the headlights. Cleaned up the old sockets and reinstalled with new pigtails, cork gasket and retaining spring.

Bernie, I think turn signals are very important if the car is to be driven. If it is going to ride a trailer from show to show, then it isn't an issue. I realize you aren't going to keep the car. So let them worry about it. But if you are considering using it even if it is 1/10th of what you're using the Rapier, then find a way. I had a Model A where I used the cowl lights in the front and dual filament bulbs in the rear. Same with my 1940 packard which had parking lights on the fenders. Same with my '47 Oldsmobile which had the parking lights in the bumper guards. I'm planning to use the parking lights on my '34 Chevrolet, they are in the headlights. If there are no sidelights or cowl lamps or parking lights, then install a pair of fog lights and wire them as turn signals. No need to use the repugnant ones. Just my opinion.

Looking for a straight luggage rack with all hardware present. 705-335-4008.

Nothing much to report. I had approached the guy who did the sedan delivery in the photos to see if he'd take mine if the other didn't get going soon. He could. Took the car's own left rear fender to the painters.They'll take it like that. At the same time asked him for a commitment as I want to reassemble it over the winter. Turns out he has started on the parts that are there and he told me it will be done in 5-6 weeks. Received a note from the platers. The last of the chrome is almost done. that was all the small parts in the interior. Also received the rear view mirror I had purchased on eBay. It is good but floppy. Any ideas on how to tighten that swivel?

Remounted the dome light block. It is now flush with the bottom of the bows and the headliner should go right across it without hump or depression. I had purchased several church pews to augment my stock of seasoned oak. The kneelers had a pad which was made of a nice high density foam. After trying several tools, I found it cut nicely on the bandsaw. So I made some pads for my armrests.

More little boring jobs. Reinstalled the gravel shield in the left rear fender. Remounted it on the car and sealed all the welds and patches with All Metal. Using a piece of foam tape as a guide for the filler, straigtened the edges of the bottom lip bead. Noticed some bolts protruding in the roof which may interfere with the headliner. Cut them flush. Made a new center slat. I had damaged the other one while fiddling with the old dome light block. Screwed this one in. While I was up there I had visions of the ends of the other slats which were nailed popping up underneath the roof insert. So added a screw at both ends of the rest of them. Fitted the new pigtail to the dome light cup and gave it a new ground screw.

Davelet, I was there and have many photos. Anything in particular you're interested in? I'd have to scan them as they are all prints.