caddyshack

Thanks again Lump, and all other comments. I received a copy of the original GM, Bill of Lading, Chevrolet Motor Division, Invoice dated 11/12/68, destination - Downtown Chevrolet, Mpls. MN. Shipped from Janesville, Wisconsin, arrived 11/16/68. Option/Extra Equip. Description Amount Ser. Number 8 Malibu Convert. $2335.90 06A01HA Soft-ray tinted glass 28.50 06A39AY Deluxe front and rear 6.96 (not sure what this is) 06A51AA Strato-bucket front 93.55 06A82ZB Head restraints 13.06 06C05AA Convert. Top/Black .00 06C06AA Power Convert. top 40.70 06D55HA Center Console 41.51 06L34AB1 350-hp Turbo-jet 396 93.55 06M40TA1 Turbo Hydra-matic 179.80 06N40BB Power steering 81.35 06PWBAD F70x14 Red Stripe tires .00 06T60EA Heavy-duty Battery 12.20 06U63AC AM Pushbutton Radio 47.18 06U80AC Rear seat speaker 10.20 06Z25AA SS Group Option 268.40 06788GA Med. Red Vinyl Trim .00 06912BB 69-69 Cortez Silver .00 Optional Loc Adv. Coll 10.00 (not sure what this is) Destination charge 75.00 Total $3337.86 This is how it came from the assembly plant in Janesville, Wisconsin in Nov. of 1968. Thanks for everyones help. I really appreciate it. Skip

Thanks again Lump. I don't believe that it has AC. I would love to dive into this research but the auto is 250 mi North and I don't have easy access to it. I was hoping to get a rough idea as to the value and then possibly make a buyout possible with my siblings. In any case I would bring it back to my home to correct any issues that I may find, and I would be more than happy to share that info with you.

Lump Extraordinary info. Very detailed and will be quite easy to document. Even though the auto is quite a distance from my home, I know that we have the window sheet showing all options and standard equipment, the build sheet was never looked for, the engine is 350hp with an automatic tranny (turbo-hydramatic I believe), the original carb I have and I believe a Holley economizer was installed in the 70's, protectorate is in the glove compartment along with all maintenance and misc service work, midas replaced the rippled exhaust pipes with new mufflers pipes and resonators (big mistake), radio was replaced with tape deck and I have the original radio. Just a few things from memory. If we can get the car home, the tags on misc items can get verified. I liked this car so much when my mother purchased it, that I went out the next year and bought a '70 cowl inducted high hp 396 SS Hardtop, same color, but a 4 sp. Thanks again, time to research.

Thanks, That is a very interesting site. Can't take more pics, the car is stored 5hrs from here. Have received some very helpful info and we can now discuss whether to sell it or one of us can purchase it from our relative.

Thanks to all for the comments. I found a document that states that the car was undercoated by Zeibart (?) shortly after the purchase. I know this is not good for the value, and it is costly to remove, but at least there is no rust. Never undercoated any of my vehicles, so I don't know if sub surface rust could be there.

The tranny is a turbo hydromatic three speed. Red interior, Cortez silver paint, all paperwork is there, six or seven oil changes, new tires, new exhaust. I put 15K miles on it when I was attending college in 1970 and the rest was city mileage. Thanks for your comment

Thanks Steve Everybody usually thinks they have a potential goldmine in the garage. I learned a long time ago to accept reality. B-J, Mecum, etc. etc have fabulous over restored examples with top dollar results, and this one is just a well cared for original. Thanks again

Our family has a '69 SS Chevelle low mileage (23K) auto that was purchased new in late 1968 and would like to know what a realistic value might be in todays market. Many posts on this forum have asked similar questions and we know that condition is everything. It has been stored many years and tires, hoses, fluids, etc. have been maintained. It does not get driven as much as it should, but brakes and everything mechanical sound and operate just fine. Any comments good or bad are welcome. Just trying to get a feel on how desirable this one is. Thanks

Never was that good in math. Maybe it was only 12.67531%. Will have to calibrate my gas can next. No, on the other hand, won't use the crap anymore.

I had to replace every rubber hose, and the fuel pump (rubber diaphragm) in my '62 Vette because of a dumb choice of gas a few years ago. Last year I had to replace the rubber hose on the gas fill pipe to the tank. Must have overlooked it. It was totally mush and could only have been caused by the ethanol crap also. I use ethanol in the mowers, and my only complaint is that a full tank will lose 1/3 to evaporation over a weeks time. Luckily we can get non-ethanol gas at quite a few stations. Not cheap, but better than repair bills.

There are many vendors that supply wood kits for A's. Check the Model A Ford Club of America for recommendations. I used "Snyder's in the past with very good results. Good instructions are critical, top wood especially. "Mikes" is another source for various wood kits. Good luck.

Hi Jonah, Just saw your post today.That oil cup on the side of the engine is actually a primer cup for gas and goes on top of the screwed caps above the valves or in my case, above the cylinder and in the screwed cap( your cylinder cap is not tapped). Your missing oil tank and dash control valve would connect to the present oil cup location. Your differential is different from mine. I have a drain plug (Bottom) and a fill plug on top. I don't have any info on the earlier models. I was told to fill my case 2/3 full and to check if leakage occurred. My pictures during the early restoration days were lost when a computer virus destroyed my pictures and contact information. I will attach a couple of recent ones however.

Air cooled engine. That makes sense. Love the steering set-up. Good luck with your project.

Hi Jonah, Transmission and rear axel might use a 600W oil. Engine oil if not rebuilt could use a non detergent 5W or 10W grade. Bearings could use a standard bearing grease or marine grade either is fine. Had a question however. The wheel on my later model Brush are non-demountable, yours are demountable. Does your hubcap say BRUSH? And, is the size of the tire 28x3? Thanks Skip in MN.

For those that think the "matching numbers" thing is a 1950's or a Corvette thing, it goes way back the the early brass era autos. Early build sheets are what was used to verify "matching numbers" on many pre-1910 vehicles. Some manufacturers records are lost or destroyed but those original build sheets are the basis for verifying a year of production, model number, Selden Patent number, body style, motor number, axel ratios, wheel size, date of sale, destination etc. etc.. Not to say an engine might need replacement, but if the replacement was identical to the original and re stamped, is it not still a numbers matching vehicle? This confusion with numbers matching and date code identification is for the purist that wants everything just perfect and is willing to go to any length to make it so. Personally, I prefer original equipped, and numbers matching, if verifiable. If that is not possible then it is just another ride. Just an opinion, don't take it too seriously.

Front fenders appear to be Ford T. Get some good pictures of an original Brush BC auto if you are going to restore it. Research is half the fun.

Hi Jonah, I have the same housing (part # 788-D), but I have never had to take it apart. I have a price list of parts for Model D, E, F, and Liberty and they all show the same part number as yours. Internally they mention parts such as; cover, cover bushing, cover gasket, eccentric, eccentric pin, gear-internal, gear shaft, gearshift key, and all external studs and rods. Unfortunately there are no drawings or instructions to show assembly. Mine has a pipe plug in the housing, and I remember cleaning the hardened grease from the housing and soaking it in gunk cleaning solution for a week or so. Have never had it apart however. Good luck, maybe another member has taken one apart and could respond. Skip

Congrats Jonah and welcome to the AACA forum. That is a beautiful Brush that you inherited. From some of my records, I believe that you have a 1909 Model BC. The serial numbers were 1701-3700. The Buffalo carb is correct for that year also. There is a Brush Owners Association that was located in the US but is now located in Australia I believe. Maybe you could contact them for more specific technical information. I have a 1912 but the earlier models are different. Keep us posted on your progress. Good luck and research every item. Skip in MN.

Did not sell.

In 1966 I was waiting in the customer service lounge in downtown Minneapolis waiting for my new Chevelle to be dealer prepped and delivered. Across from me was an older fellow waiting to pick up his new Vette. As we were talking about our new purchases a loud crash was heard behind the waiting room wall. We both commented on how we hoped it didn't involve our cars. I was lucky, he was not. His car was coming down the circular ramp from the second floor prep area and in between floors another new car was going up the ramp. Not much speed involved, but fiberglass was all over the place, and radiator fluid ran down the ramp. The guy was just sick, but he got a new Corvrtte with a larger engine a more options as compensation. He never even got to drive his new car and it got wrecked.

I agree with Lang's. Get their catalog as well as Snyder's and Mac's. Used parts are also on Ford Barn and e-bay. Good luck.

I thought Chevy also, but I was thinking 1933. Same lines and number of louvers, but the bottom edge still looks different. Good luck and nice hood by the way.

One of my first cars was a 1904 Cadillac that I bought in 1973. I was 26 yrs old and knew nothing about the car. I still have it, and it is now 113 yrs old. When I was 32, I purchased a 1912 Brush, now is 105 yrs. old. I just turned 70, and thanks to AACA, HCCA, and fellow members, the experience has given me a greater appreciation of the early days of the auto industry. Thanks for all the help.

Auto is on hold pending finalization of sale.

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