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FS 1927 Fast Four engine and transmission


trimacar

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Offered for sale, 1927 Dodge Brother's engine and transmission, the proverbial Fast Four (as opposed to the Slow Four!).   As shown in picture......1385108261_engine2.thumb.JPG.eba6e357b19710d0a9a407c259cff87a.JPG

 

Hope someone can use it, $800 FOB Winchester Va., it's on a pallet so can ship Fastenal or ?

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  • 4 weeks later...
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Monday I brought it home, freed up the transmission, found no compression, and pulled the head to find out why.  The head gasket was blown on the drivers side of no. 4.  There was part of the gasket sticking out from the space where the head meet the block.  Must have been running like that for quite a while.  Some of the valves were sticking open a little because there was a mouse that decided to put everything it could find in the ports and manifold.

 

Tuesday I continued cleaning all of this and went ahead and did a valve job on it.  The seats were all good, just needed a little cleanup.  some of the valves were worn pretty bad, but they all came out ok with a little bit of an edge above the face.  Pulled the starter and it looks really good, no noticeable cracks in the usual places.

 

Today I removed the transmission, then leaned the motor on its side to remove the oil pan.  Number three rod has a slight bit of movement, I'll have to pull that cap to see how it looks. 

 

I bought this so that I could use it as a mock up in my 27 coupe.  Had to fabricate the mounts, because its not a 128 chassis.  I'm thinking that I can make this one run and usable in the car before I get the other FF back from the machine shop.  Right now I'm trying to come up with an idea for a distributor.  Anybody ever used a non stock distributor on one of these?  

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Good to hear that you're not sending any hit men after me!  Guess that's why it turned so easily, no compression, but sounds like it will clean up OK.

 

There was a distributor on the engine I believe, but they were pot metal and prone to being awful condition.  The starter has pot metal too, the first one we tried on my engine sort of exploded, and that was after it was rebuilt.  I received a pile of parts with the cabriolet, and had a non-pot metal end for the starter which we installed.

 

Thanks for helping clear my warehouse of one pallet full, hope it's a help to you! 

 

I will miss Chewy, my pet mouse that left all the evidence...

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For those interested in shipping details, I shipped the pallet with engine Fastenal.

 

620 pounds (I told them 700), could not overhang the 40x48 pallet in any way.  Had to remove some parts and tie them to top of engine to avoid the overhang, including the top of transmission with shift lever.  Wrapped transmission so it wouldn't leak, if it leaks at Fastenal that's an extra $150. 

 

Cost was $225.  Delivery was a little over a week, maybe 10 days, if I have my dates correct. 

 

It's a very good service for heavy items, it's called 3PL (third party logistics) if you go on their website.

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This is a little of what I did today.  Made a bushing to mount this Volkswagen points distributor.  The shaft won't be too hard to adapt to the stock distributor drive shaft.  They are similar sizes and I'm planning on making a collar extension to connect the two.  Vacuum advance might be nice, but I also have another VW distributor without vacuum hookup.

 

Also pulled the number three rod cap, and found no damage.  I'll measure and see if I can adjust the thickness of the shims to get the proper clearance.

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Glad to see that this engine will lead an entertaining life!  Sounds like I sold it to a good home.   I'm flabbergasted that a VW distributor would work on this engine!  Here's the stock setup on my '27 cabriolet.

 

I love my little Dodge Brothers, and it's a rare car...only made a few months in 1927....the problem is that any car you have to explain how rare it is, becomes somewhat of a chore, it's not like a car that is well publicized as being rare.

 

All that said, my buddy Rob set up the engine so well, it's a lot of fun to drive.....even if the vacuum tank is dry, a few turns of the engine and it sucks gas to it, all of the work is so well done...picture of it coming out of 25+ year storage in a sealed in basement garage (he'd even put up studs against the garage door and insulated it!)....

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  • 2 weeks later...

I heard it run yesterday!  Sounds strong.  It was set up in near stock configuration, happened to have a stock carburetor for it and distributor.   That's the starter that came with it(cleaned up, new brushes, new rear bushing) turns it really well.  The generator is one that I had.  Today I made a new battery box for the chassis, as it didn't have on when I got it.  I'll try to make a video sometime soon.

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  • 4 months later...

It was weeping on the main water jacket, drivers side about an inch from the top.  Must have frozen at some point, but couldn't see anything till water was in it the first time.  Really bummed me out at first, but then I realized that I basically had no money into this engine, and it was a placeholder until I get the real one back from the machine shop.  Figured I'll just try what I can, and maybe get to drive it before the rebuilt motor is ready.  This one will be good to have as a back up, and for any other projects that come along.

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I've read somewhere on this forum that some have had success with that kind of leak using J.B. Weld or similar since the temperature isn't too extreme, nor is there much (if any) pressure behind the leak.  Maybe even high temp RTV would work if you clean and rough up the surface a bit surrounding the leak.

Edited by MikeC5 (see edit history)
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Mike I had a crack in the block of my very rare 1913 Mors And I used a product that is Aussie made called Youngs Superseal  Worked a treat Guaranteed NOT to clog radiators All I had to do was block off the over flow tube so that the system presureized enough the make the sealant flow to the crack and seal it Twenty mins  later all fixed This crack was 2 inches long 

 

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22 hours ago, moose50 said:

Really bummed me out at first, but then I realized that I basically had no money into this engine, and it was a placeholder until I get the real one back from the machine shop.

I'm sorry to hear that the block had a fault, I was not aware of it.  The engine sat dry in a garage for over 40 years, so must have happened before he pulled it out of a car (the previous owner of my car).

 

I do appreciate your viewpoint, if you had serious money in it we'd work something out, but as you know with me paying shipping and the cost of the motor there's not much there!

 

Hope it seals for you, does sound like an easy crack to fix.  Would love it if that engine could get you down the road a bit!

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  • 1 year later...
On 2/17/2019 at 6:53 AM, trimacar said:

I'm sorry to hear that the block had a fault, I was not aware of it.  The engine sat dry in a garage for over 40 years, so must have happened before he pulled it out of a car (the previous owner of my car).

 

I do appreciate your viewpoint, if you had serious money in it we'd work something out, but as you know with me paying shipping and the cost of the motor there's not much there!

 

Hope it seals for you, does sound like an easy crack to fix.  Would love it if that engine could get you down the road a bit!

I was just going back through some of my posts and found this one.  David, it is getting me down the road very well!

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Glad to hear it!  That’s great!  A good friend of mine went through my engine and transmission and it runs great.

 

Much better in your car than in the corner of my garage!  
 

Attached is what happens when a generator cutout quits working.  Oh well....

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On 2/15/2019 at 11:41 AM, moose50 said:

 

Block was weeping bit, so I'm  giving it the treatment.  Bar's Leak, running from/to the bucket so I don't clog my newly re-cored radiator.  Through one temp cycle, it has seemed to work.  Probably do it again soon.

In the movie Tobacco Road, the guy used a 5 gal bucket for a radiator on his T.  

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