Guest William Knopf Posted July 13, 2017 Share Posted July 13, 2017 ok guys. We got the Buick running this afternoon. We drove it about a 100 yards in our driveway and it cuts off. Couldn't get it to start back up unless we manually put gas in the carb. Suggestions? Is it still possibly the fuel pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted July 13, 2017 Share Posted July 13, 2017 I'm guessing something with the float (needle / seat) not refilling the primary portion of the carburetor IF it started on its own without filling the carb (fuel pump filled it). Or clogged line. Again, if you put gas in the carb to start it and run the 100 yards, that is what the car will run on with just the fuel in the bowl. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted July 13, 2017 Share Posted July 13, 2017 Did you confirm fuel was being pumped by the fuel pump? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest William Knopf Posted July 13, 2017 Share Posted July 13, 2017 Yes. We took the line loose at the filter near the carb and it came up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted July 13, 2017 Share Posted July 13, 2017 Is the filter the old pancake style? If so, you might want to take that apart first and give it a good rinse and make sure it's actually passing fluid through. it has one screw that you undo and it should come apart. If that doesn't do it, then it looks like a carburetor rebuild. Before you take it apart, check the sight plugs and see if the bowls are filling up. You might be able to get away with just removing the air horn and seeing if the needle and seat are gummed up. Is this a Rochester or Carter carb? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest William Knopf Posted July 13, 2017 Share Posted July 13, 2017 Carter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted July 13, 2017 Share Posted July 13, 2017 On 7/11/2017 at 7:38 AM, dons56 said: Fuel pump on top. I cut a disc of neoprene when mine leaks... I have found a source for ethanol free gas which is all I buy unless out of town. Ethanol and neoprene do not play nice together... In another thread, possibly in another AACA forum, the northeastern USA fuel pump rebuilder was noted to use the newest ethanol-resistant neoprene in his rebuilds and kits he sells It WAS later pointed out that while the particular neoprene will resist deterioration from ethanol, as long as the diaphragm is wet with fuel, but IF the diaphragm is ever allowed to dry out (no fuel against it or in the pump body from non-activity, over time), the neoprene will become brittle and fail as a result. So, a few dynamics to the fuel pump diaphragm and ethanol fuel. SO . . . . keep that engine "exercised" even if the car doesn't move. NTX5467 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted July 13, 2017 Share Posted July 13, 2017 I respectfully agree that the stainless steel braid hose was probably put there "after initial assembly", rather than at the assembly plant. Until the later 1970s, in the car hobby, stainless steel braid hose was more aerospace than automotive in where it was used. That was a good 20 years after 1956, so you can figure how far things had come in those 20 years. Also, two other dynamics. One is cost, which was certainly more than normal rubber hose. There would have had to be a VERY strong case to use that more expensive type of hose to justify it to GM's Financial Dept. Another is that vehicle warranties were much shorter back then, months instead of years, so the factory's liability exposure was much less than in more recent times. It would also have been much easier to configure a simple metal shield for the rubber hose, if abrasion-resistance was one reason to use SS braided hose rather than bare rubber line. Regards, NTX5467 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted July 13, 2017 Share Posted July 13, 2017 4 hours ago, William Knopf said: Carter Rochester carbs use rubber tipped needles in the seat that can go bad after a while. If the Carter is original, the needle should be metal. However, you don't know if they've been replaced with rubber or not. Verify the filter flows, then verify the float bowls are dry. If they're dry, then it's time to open the carb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbking Posted July 13, 2017 Share Posted July 13, 2017 Rochester and Carter (Holley also) went to the rubber (neopreme) tipped fuel valves about 1963. Before that, all were metal (well, with the exception of a few Carter in the late 1940's that were plastic). The neopreme was, and is, a vast improvement over the metal, even with E10 fuel. The ethanol will cause the steel needles to rust. Jon. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest William Knopf Posted July 15, 2017 Share Posted July 15, 2017 Ok guys. It cranked up again and set there and run for about 8 minutes without us doing anything. It then cut off and it gives us a clicking noise as if the battery is dead. Any thoughts. The battery we are using is just one that we had lying around the shop. Could the battery be dying and that cause the clicking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted July 15, 2017 Share Posted July 15, 2017 Install a known good battery and if still clicking jump 12v+ to the 10 gauge black wire on the starter relay ( that goes to the solenoid ). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest William Knopf Posted July 15, 2017 Share Posted July 15, 2017 Ok. What does this mean with the wire? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted July 15, 2017 Share Posted July 15, 2017 1 minute ago, William Knopf said: Ok. What does this mean with the wire? A bad starter relay can cause those symptoms...this just bypasses it to isolate the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted July 15, 2017 Share Posted July 15, 2017 With the car shutting off and the battery dead, it almost sounds like an ignition problem now. Did you verify the floats were full by removing the sight plugs on the side of the carb? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialEducation Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 Sounds like a charging system problem. It should not drain the battery while idling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 (edited) I concur that it now sounds like a charging system issue. The generator might not "drain the battery" at idle, but it surely isn't adding that much to the charge at idle, either. This would relate to a battery issue of decreased capacity. How long might it run if it's at fast idle, when the generator is charging more? Do verify that the battery cables' terminals and posts are CLEAN, rather than just looking that way. In a world where 150 amp alternators are common, having a generator of 35 amps (or so) seems like it ought to be on a riding lawn mower engine (which use a 9 amp alternator, I believe). NTX5467 Edited July 16, 2017 by NTX5467 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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