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1990 Convertible trunk release.


ptt

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The most likely cause is that the spring that sits across the latch is either loose or broken.  The purpose of the spring (looks like a thick wire) is to push the latch JUST far enough away so as to not re-engage.  

 

The other thing that I have run across is on exceptionally hot days, the latch appears to bind up and will not release until the trunk area cools.  I have been know to run a stream of water over the trunk area (my Reatta is black) to remove some of the heat so as to get into the trunk. 

 

If the problem is the spring, you should have someone be ready to lift on the trunk as you press the release button which should allow them to pull it up.  

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I had a Hatchback ('88 Nissan) that even with new struts- it was so heavy it wouldn't unlatch. I then installed 2 of similar to THESE and my worries were over. You can easily sand or file the top to shave it down, to lessen the force. Reattas have a "dimpled" area on each side, that would work perfectly.

 

 

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Using Barneys pic as reference, it appears my horizontal WIRE is not in the horizontal position but below the metal tab when trunk is open.  I will try putting the WIRE back in the same horizontal position as the pic and see if it works.  Thanks all.

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  • 2 months later...

Put the wire up on the little metal tab but it didn't work.  Ive been releasing the rear of the top and manually popping the hard tonneau cover to access the little orange emergency release lever with a long wooden handled squeegie while having my umbrella propped up under the lip of the trunk.  Also...replaced the #2 BODY fuse that was blown.  Still doesn't pop the trunk up enough.  I'm thinking maybe the solenoid isn't releasing the latch enough to let trunk deck release.  Is there any adjustment that I'm missing? 

Edited by ptt (see edit history)
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On 4/18/2017 at 1:08 AM, ptt said:

Using Barneys pic as reference, it appears my horizontal WIRE is not in the horizontal position but below the metal tab when trunk is open.  I will try putting the WIRE back in the same horizontal position as the pic and see if it works.  Thanks all.

 

It's not just a WIRE. It's a spring that must have tension on it trying to push the trunk lid above the latch.

 

There must be something wrong with the spring preventing it from having tension on it to push the trunk lid up. The problem could be where the spring is coiled around the shaft (on the right side of the photo below) has cam loose on the other end. You might need a new latch

 

trunk_latch-1.JPG.539f3e39602c782d01bd283610069186.JPG

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I have the same issue when the trunk area is heat soaked (my reatta is black) in the Tx summer sun.  The solenoid will click but the latch does NOT release. I have replaced the gas struts, ensured that the spring across the latch is properly adjusted, but the problem still occurs periodically.  I have tried to pull up on the trunk lid while releasing the latch, but the latch itself is simply NOT releasing on mine.  I have oiled the latch and can't find anything worn or binding.  I guess I should just replace the latch assembly but it only acts up under extreme heat and so I have learned to live with it.  

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I recently had a call from Southern California...trunk would not unlock when car had been setting in the sun......move the car to a shady spot and after cooling it would work.  I don't have the answer but here are the possibilities....not including the spring problem with this post.

(1) Solenoid affected by the heat.......jumper 12v directly to the solenoid when it does not work...if it works then the problem is elsewhere.

(2) solenoid relay affected by the heat..... switch relays around, if it works replace the relay.

(3) Bad ground that is only showing up acting up with heat expansion....test by attaching a good ground directly to the solenoid and the other end to a good body ground....NOT the trunk lid

Convertible only....the trunk/boot inter-lock could be bad.   This keep the trunk from opening when the boot is open and vise-versa.

Any other ideas?

Edited by Barney Eaton (see edit history)
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Just a thought but GM starter solenoids used to do the same thing: just click when hot and not engage. Solution was a Corvette unit. Don't think that will help here but might measure the voltage going to the solenoid, may have a resistive wire/connection.

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