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57 Special Master Cylinder Removal


g-g-g0

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#*#@+#!! Who said that the old cars are easier to work on?!?! The engineer that designed the master cylinder (manual brakes) in '57's never planed on removing one! So the shop manual calls for a special tool #6618. Does anyone have one and willing to share a picture? With out the tool it takes a child with small hands, rubber arms and a bonfied contorshionst that is able to stand on his head for lengthy periods of time to remove one!!!! After skinned arms, bloody nuckles and scraped up arms I got the crazy thing out but I am not sure that even God can get it back in? 

 

Any one have guidance for a beat up old man?

 

Thanks,

 

Gary

 

 

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Are you referring to the large nut behind the brake pedal? :)

 

I only ask, because I'm not sure if the manual brakes are set up the same way inside the car as one with a power booster.  If so, then the nut is a real pain.  I usually have a partner hold the nut with a pair of large channel locks or locking vice grips, and I spin the entire unit on the outside.  Once loose, the nut should back off.

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Yes, that big nut is the culprit! Sure would like to see what the special tool looks like! My fat hands don't seem to fit in the very limited space. Tried the channel locks with out much success.

 

Gary

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Gary,

I've been able to get that stupid nut off and on using the very largest pair of channel locks that I can find--with handles at least a foot long or more. Yes, you have to grab the nut anywhere you can, and you can only turn it about 1/16th of a turn at a time, which means 16 or more strokes just to get the _(&*!!@@%* thing to make one complete revolution, and yes, you have to do it while lying on your back with your arms up and behind your head. Not fun. It helps quite a bit, if you remove the front seat before attempting this, but that's an awful lot of trouble, too. It does allow you to stretch out the rest of your body and not have to contort so much. '58s are the same way.

Pete Phillips

Leonard, TX.

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In my first attempt ever at this, I finally remembered an old engineers adage; "Don't let the problem dictate the solution."  So I had the wife hold the channel locks. Then after removing the mounting bolts from the firewall plenum, the brake fluid and the brake line, and using a strap wrench, I gently turned the entire master cylinder CC-W until the nut was loose. Bingo! The problem solved.

 

Dan

Caballero2

Edited by Caballero2 (see edit history)
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The tool is a big socket that the pushrod goes through.  It then has some holes on the outside in which to insert a bent rod type handle at various clock positions.  I actually have the socket and plan to make the handle next time I have to change one.  

The first time I changed one I just used a long chisel to break the nut loose then took it off by hand.  Made a couple knicks on the outside of the nut, but no biggie!

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Thanks to all for the response. I figured it was some sort of socket. Just the fact that the socket sticks out from the firewall will help with the re-install (or at least that is what it says in the fine print?). Time will tell as tomorrow is the day for attempted installation.

 

Gary

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