1988 coupe no start

[ptt]

I rescued my '88 Reatta from a teenager who was about to put a wing on the trunkdeck and ruin it! When I drove it home after I bought it the engine would stumble and sputter when floored getting on the interstate.:confused: If I "feathered" the gas pedal it would get up to the 65mph speed limit on the highway but real slow getting there. It has sat all winter and now it wont start at all. It seems to want to catch once in a while but wont start. The CRT diagnostics says "no malfunctions" Hmmm. Does the '88 have a security feature that interfers with starting the engine if the doors arent locked in a specific manner? The kid I bought it from said he would unplug the CRT up under the firewall for some reason when it wouldnt start. Would that allow it to start? Sorry to be such a newb to Reattas...its my first one. Thanks.

[KDirk]

ptt-

The 88's had a basic security system that would honk the horn/flash the lights if the exterior locks were tampered with, or if the doors/trunk were forced open. I think this also inhibited starting until the alarm was disarmed and canceled (done by turning the key in the exterior lock cylinder). The 90 and 91 models had pass-key (resistor chip in the ignition key) that further enhanced the anti-theft setup, but the 88's did not have this feature.

In any case, disconnecting the CRT should not have any effect on the security, since there was a separate security module, and the CRT was just a display controlled by another module called the CRTC, located down inside the center console near the radio module. I can't see where a faulty CRT would prevent the car from starting, but maybe one of the knowledgeable 88 owners here can offer more insight [i own a 91, so the setup is a bit different between our cars].

BTW, welcome the forum, and to Reatta ownership. Once you get the kinks out, it is a great car, and very enjoyable to drive. Do be careful though, the Reatta has a tendency to run you into obsession; and I am only half-joking.

KDirk

[Ronnie]

Hi ptt. Welcome to the forum! When it comes to starting the Reatta is like any other car. It needs spark and fuel to run, both at the right time. Have you checked to see which one is missing?

[Guest Mc_Reatta]

Is the check engine light on?

Go to Ronnie's site and check for trouble codes in the computer:

Reatta Owners Journal - How To Access Trouble Codes - '88 & '89 Models

Two common electrical causes of no start or poor running are the Ignition Control Module and the crankshaft position sensor. These will not set a trouble code.

On the fuel side need to check for proper pressure on the rail. (Good pump, regulator, filter)

Most other sensors will set trouble codes which will make troubleshooting them easier.

Good troubleshooting can keep you from throwing a lot of money at a problem before finding the real cause.

Go to Reatta Data Page and register to get access to an online field service manual too.

[DAVES89]

Pressing the staus keys only give you an idea if the fluid levels are correct and what the CRT would display if you had a problem. What others are referring to is reading the codes thru the CRT by pressing the "climate" key and then turning the heat/a/c off. Then press and hold both the heat and warm buttons at the same time until the screen changes for you to read the codes. Have a pencil and paper ready to write them down.

There is more detail on Ronnies site.

[Guest mongeonman]

Security system does not keep the car from starting and no security for the trunk on 88,correct me if wrong.

[Guest Bobby Valines]

Harbor freight has a fuel presser gage for $10.00. I don't think the fuel pumps last much longer than 135,000, how many miles are on this 88?

[Ronnie]

As info:

The security system will keep the car from starting. The circuit highlighted in yellow, in the photo below, shows how the starter interrupt relay prevents the starter from engaging. The starter interrupt relay is controlled by the theft deterrent module which is part of the security system.

[padgett]

If the ignition is immobilized, it won't sputter, that plus the featering required sounds more like a secondary ignition problem which will not set any codes.

To seperate fuel from ignition, I usually pour about 1/2 oz of gas into the plenium using one of the octopus tubes. If still no fire, it is ignition.

I usually replace the Magnavox ignition with a Delco anyway - are pleantiful in recycling centers. See here

[Guest ReattaRobert]

In reading your drive home symptoms, I'm gonna guess you have a fuel related problem. Ronnie, Padget, etc. make good suggestions toward determining what is missing - fuel and/or spark.

I said fuel, or more specifically, fuel filter/ fuel pump based on your having to 'ease into' the throttle on your drive home - indicates a lack of enough fuel to satisfy the engines demands.

Like wise, welcome to the Forum from a relatively new Reatta owner myself - the help is herein!

[Howard]

My 89 behaved like you just described. The problem was the Crankshaft Position Sensor. In point of fact, I had to have two installed in very short order. Both times the car would sometimes start, but ran very poorly. Even on the highway the car would barely get up to speed, then the engine would just shut down at 70 MPH, then turn back on. After the second one was installed, the car ran well for about six months. Then after that time, the car would always start, but ran poorly again. The problem this time? The Camshaft Position Sensor. As already stated in other posts, there could be any number of problems that can cause the car to act the way you have described. Here's another little test to perform. Again, my car had this problem too. Do you hear the fuel pump turn on when you turn on the key? The sound will come from the rear of the car. When the key is turned on, a relay on the firewall is activated that turns on the fuel pump. If the relay is bad, the fuel pump will not turn on during engine start. The car will start after cranking awhile, because there is a circuit in the oil pump that keeps the fuel pump on, once oil pressure is at a certain level. The best way to see just how much fuel pressure you have it to connect a pressure gauge to the fuel rail. This suggestion has already been made. Very easy to do. Mentioned too is the ignition module. Is there a green gel leaking out? If so, it needs to be replaced. Even if there is not a green gel present, the module can be bad. The replacement is rather simple to do. If it's been installed in the car for a number of years, it can't hurt anything but your wallet to change it. While you are at it, my guess your car needs the spark plug wires and plugs changed as well, if they have not been changed in a few years. Module, wires, plugs, would put your ignition system in good shape. Even if that's not the problem, such action will help performance and fuel mileage. Also, not to be overlooked is the simple fuel filter. A real PIA to replace. It's mounted high in the frame near the driver door hinges. Very tight quarters for tools. I hope this helps. Keep us informed of your progress.

[ptt]

Sorry for not following up in a timely manner..... I have just came across a broken relay on the firewall. Its one of the three identical relays on the same mounting bracket in the center of the firewall. Isnt one of these the fuel pump relay? Surely it cant be this easy of a fix!!!! What do the other two control? I m not sure if I can get this relay today as its Sunday and the local stealership parts dept. is closed. Maybe Automoan or O'Reillys would have one? Thanks all and I will report back with results.

[Ronnie]

Is the car failing to start (as in keep running) or the starter does not turn the engine? Fuel pump relay does not keep the starter from working.

The other two other relays are ABS system and the Teves pump. They are interchangeable. You can swap them just for a test. No need to buy a new one just for testing.

[harry yarnell]

I'm assuming by 'no start', you mean you can crank, but it won't fire...

[padgett]

The relay is only on for an initial prime when you turn the key on. If that is the problem it will start if you crank it for long enough for the oil pressure light to go out. The parallel circuit is then made to the fuel pump through the oil pressure switch.

The oil pressure interlock has been in GM cars since the '70s.

[ptt]

It just cranks but wont catch. I havent swapped out the relays but will and post the results.

[Guest barra]

Is it possibly the engine control module. I had an '89 that had sat for a while. The temperature gauge read 140 degrees and only enough fuel to start at that temperature was injected. Finally, I could not get it to start and the ECM was shop-diagnosed.

[padgett]

Have you checked for spark ? A quick triage is to pour about a 1/2 oz of gas into the plenium, hold the throttle open a bit, and crank. If it even sputters you have a lack of fuel.

BTW this is not a Reatta issue, it is a 3800 issue and there are millions of them.

[ptt]

Thank you all for welcoming me to the world of Reatta ownwership. Once I get my '88 Coupe roadworthy Im concerned about the TEVES brake system. All Ive read about this system is negative. I suppose it will come with the territory. :eek:

[Ronnie]

What happened with swapping the relays? It has been two day since you said you were going to do it and it is a five minute job.

[padgett]

Nothing mystical about the Teves, just an electrohydraulic boost system like (but not the same as) the Powermaster used in GNs and dump trucks with an ABS added that uses hall effect wheel sensors. Can be treated as two seperate systems.

My only concern is the availability of wheel sensors which tend to be expensive. Have not gotten to the point of rebuilding or looking for a substitute yet.

[ptt]

In the middle of moving and dont have five minutes! Believe me Im anxious to do the swap out and find out if its the relay but Im not right there with the car or I would have done it.

Edited April 28, 2010 by ptt (see edit history)

[padgett]

Just need to crank until the oil light goes out to find out if relay.

[Guest mhuffy]

When I rescued my 88 it had sat since 2003 as it died and would not start again. It ended up being the crank sensor, as it appears is the problem of majority. My mechanic gave me a tester that would plug into the electrical connection of a fuel injector. I then used another tester to plug into my number 1 cylinder plug. When I turned the key - the motor cranked, but there was no power going to either. I realize that not every mechanic will give his tools out, (mine probably only did since I have been a good customer of his since 1975), but I would think these can be either rented or borrowed from places like Auto Zone or Advanced,

Just as previously posted, these are just regular gasoline engines - you need spark and fuel to run. Other things to run right, but the spark and fuel is the first step.

Welcome to the forum and good luck with your car. Feel free to post a couple pics and be sure to list particulars in your signature line.

[ptt]

OK...finally got most larger things moved to the new place and towed the Reatta to a friends farm about 40 miles from me (long story). Anyway, I tried to do the relay swap but couldnt get the relay loose from the harness. The relay has a type of release on it Ive never seen before. It has a white tab that wont pull out. Another bad symptom is the ignition key has stuck in the ON position. When good battery is connected the dash instruments and the touch screen power on. CRT begins system check. Proceeds to warn of low refridgerant in AC system. But strange thing is when I press the brake pedal the dash lights and touch screen go out momentarily then come back on when I release the pedal and start the system check all over again. Only way to turn the dash/CRT off is to disconnect the battery! I think I tried to get the system to check codes correctly and got none. This old girl is going to be real fun to get going. The local dealership has the relay thats broken if I could get the thing off to swap/test it.

[Ronnie]

Read my post about this:

http://forums.aaca.org/f116/interesting-abs-malfunction-272166.html

And then read this on how to fix it:

Reatta Owners Journal - Battery Cable Repair