What is the best Inner tube? Valve stem choices?

I decided to get a new set of Firestone 7.50-19 tires for my 1929 Duesenberg, now I need to pick out the proper inner tubes. The last time I had a flat due to a puncture, I decided to buy a new tube, rather than patch the old one. Well the tube I got was a chineese piece of junk, it felt like recycled bubble gum, like the rubber was not properly vulcanized. It lasted about a month and then went flat, so I patched the old tube and put it back in and it has held air for 4 years.

So I don't want to make the same mistake of getting junk tubes. Who sells high quality innertubes these days, and does anyone recommend a specific brand?

Also, what style of valve stem is recommended for an authentic look? Brass? Nickel? Rubber? My spokes are chrome. I think it should have an elbow on it so the open end protrudes out through the spokes for easy access. I have seen pictures on line where some stems have a 90 degree angle, and some have more of a 45 degree angle. Which is appropriate?

All input is appreciated!

Joel

Waymaster reinforced.. Not the cheapest you can buy but one of the best.

Have a look at the weight and you will see they are a lot heavier than all the others which means they are a lot thicker in the walls and with your car you should be using reinforced tubes.

http://www.vintagetyres.com/item/538/600-700-18-19--waymaster-offset-rubber-valve-tube-

Buy them from the guy who sells you the tires. That way if you have a problem, you have taken away one excuse. If his tires are good enough for your car his tubes should be just as good.

On my Duesenberg the tubes have a threaded metal stem (either stainless or plated, not sure which as the car is currently stored) that makes a 90-degree bend outward, which is perfect for airing the tires. Don't know who made them, as someone else put them in. But I can find out if needed. I've had no flats during the three years they've been in the tires.

I had those 90 degree bend valves fitted to my tubes - i.e. removed the standard short straight rubber covered stems. They were said to be truck valve stems. They make it very difficult to get the tube into the rim (I have to put the tube inside the tire with the rust band and put the whole lot on together) without damaging something (hands and paint). I shove a piece of clear plastic tube over the stem to get them through the hole in the rim and have something to pull them thru, then either pull it off or cut it off. I expect you will need long valve stems either way with locking ring rims and rust bands to cover the ends of the spokes. The bends make it a lot easier to add air.

You have a large hub and short spokes at steep rake. It must be difficult to get air into straight valve stems. An alternative to fitting bent stems might be a special tool with a bend to add the air.

Boy those are big tires. They will be hard work fitting!

When I did the 1932 Packard Twin Six with the 7:50 x 18 Bedford Double White Walls, the 90 degree nickel plated metal stems came via Lucas Tire (via Universal Tire in Pennsylvania). I have not called Lucas in a while, though I usually ask for "Maytag" and he does a fine job in helping.

You will need flaps as well - wire wheel spokes and tubes do not get along.

And you will need to use talcum powder (just plain Jane old fashioned Johnsons baby powder works great) on the tubes, flaps, and casings - just a super light dusting. The talc keeps everything from sticking together and allows some flex movement. A lot of people will tell you this is not needed, but having put well over 100,000 miles driving prewar-cars I have never had a bias ply tire/tube let me down on the road. My tire guy (who also has 1930's cars) just retired on Wednesday of this week after 60 years as a Goodyear dealer - he swears by talc.

I usually lay the hub of the wheel up on some lumber, put on gym shoes, and and "walk" the lock ring in (tuck one end in and then step on the ring and walk around it) - I have had good success with both chrome and painted wheels.

Also, I have become paranoid about code stickers in tires - always double check as stickers also do not get along with tubes.

And, inflate in a cage at a store that does truck rims. It is not an old wives tale - lock rings really can kill and maim people.

JUST A FRIENDLY UPDATE: According to Lucas Tire (Cal) no tubes are currently being made in the USA. They all come from India. He sold me 2 7.00X20 for my 1929 Lincoln; they blew out overnite before I put

the wheels back on ! Lucas refunded every penny. I have always found them to be good to deal with. I found some "Italian Michelin" tubes with crank valves. That is 45 degree bend instead of 90.

They have heavy tubing and the valve screws onto a threaded nipple which in made into the tube. I have drop center wheels (UGH) and those 45 degree valves were a Godsend!

JUST A FRIENDLY UPDATE: According to Lucas Tire (Cal) no tubes are currently being made in the USA. They all come from India. He sold me 2 7.00X20 for my 1929 Lincoln; they blew out overnite before I put

the wheels back on ! Lucas refunded every penny. I have always found them to be good to deal with. I found some "Italian Michelin" tubes with crank valves. That is 45 degree bend instead of 90.

They have heavy tubing and the valve screws onto a threaded nipple which in made into the tube. I have drop center wheels (UGH) and those 45 degree valves were a Godsend!

Good info, thanks. May I ask, what is a "crank valve", and what size tires did you put the 7.00x20 tubes into?