Guest stuben Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 (edited) hello,ive got this car and looking for a source for misc. parts.Shes really all here but a few small parts. I believe I have someone interestedin helping me complete this car properly but I'm afraid of doing more damage then good.any help would be much appreaciated.thank you Edited May 17, 2014 by stuben (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starlightcoupe Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 Stuben,Have you joined the Antique Studebaker Club? Probably more resources than you will ever need! http://theantiquestudebakerclub.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
studeq Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 If your car is the one in the photo it is a '35 and not a '37! Hate to see you acquire a lot of '37 parts and not have a car to put them on!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
studerex Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 What parts are you looking for? Where are you located. I'm just finishing up my 35 and in the process learned who the 35 guys are in the club and parts sources. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stuben Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 (edited) Yes i did list this as a 37 knowing its a 35 my mistake. Thats got something to do with my condition. Thank you for catching that so fast. I will probally misspell a few things from time to time as well feel free to keep me in line. Its all good.As far as i know this car is complete, besides missing the trunk latch parts, I'm located in Mishawaka, In.Also a couple of damaged parts like the grill, Ive found someone that will repair the grill that said it wasnt that bad, hud caps and rings repaired and chromed or polished i dontknow whats best for the originallity aspectI'm not interested in trophys as I am in preservation any and all help and direction would be greatly appreciated Edited May 17, 2014 by stuben (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
studerex Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 I'm a stones throw from Mishawaka. Just there this morning. The hubcaps are available new from John McCall. The trim rings can be had at many sources. That floor shifter boot is made by Shrock brothers. Contact me for help. rex@studebakerclassics.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stuben Posted May 18, 2014 Share Posted May 18, 2014 heres another view of the 35 2 door Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbk Posted May 18, 2014 Share Posted May 18, 2014 I have a few parts for your car including a complete engine, crank, starter and a lot of the small parts which are inventoried by part number.I am in Joliet Ill. 100 miles west of you.Robert Kapteynstudebaker@mac.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stuben Posted May 18, 2014 Share Posted May 18, 2014 (edited) Edited May 18, 2014 by stuben (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mark Vail Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 Hello, "stuben." I acquired a '35 Dictator 4 door late last year. I wanted a 2 door, so I'm a bit envious. You have what appears to be a very good, solid car there. I can't help much with parts, locating parts, etc. I'm in the same boat you're in. Yes, join the ASC as well as hanging out here. Here is a link to my photobucket with more photos. Just wanted to welcome you.http://s814.photobucket.com/user/mtv8341/library/1935%20Studebaker%20Dictator?sort=3&page=1From another '35 fan, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stuben Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 (edited) Thanks for the complments on her, My son and I went to the Museum in South Bend today, we talked with the achivest and picked up a master body parts book. Also got the budget locked in and going to create a seperate account for the car. (I'm alittle too spontainious with cash). I wish i had the interior already sent out and chrome in process as well. The truth is tho i have to be patient.Mr Vail,Your car looks very nice and quite original looking,I will post additional photos as thing go along one part i need as i learned today is 261346w f and there were two per caryour car has the same trunk latch assembly I need.Markaka Stuben Edited May 27, 2014 by stuben (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stuben Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 This long weekend allowed my son and I to start on our 35 sedan, setting it on stands, removeing tires, the hood and fenders. The body plate is stamped 1Aand yet the suspension was independant on the front. I went to the Chassis parts catalog and found where the 2a dictator was stamped 1a and the the planar suspension was equiped, the serial number on the frame plate also verified this in the note section. When i orignally looked at it I didnt think anything of it because the body tag was stamped 1a. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stuben Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 Hello,I'm trying to determine if the engine in this car is original, the engine number on the block is in this photo in the book it says d-27,501. I cant find anything like that.here are some other photos of condition after removing the fenders, hood and cowl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
studeq Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 You are making a very common error in mistaking the engine casting number for the actual engine number. The engine number is not raised but stamped into the block and will be found on a pad on the left side of the block above the distributor. The engine no. range for the '35 Dictator is D27501 t0 D62850 so your number will fit somewhere in there. Incidentally your cars engine block was cast in the Studebaker foundry on May 10, 1935. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stuben Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 Thanks for the heads up, the number is D 52112, its in the correct range for this car. The engine rotates but not free enough.I'm taking it all the way apart anyways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stuben Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 I've been looking on line searching for the proper engine paint, something like alpine green? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
studerex Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 https://www.studebakerparts.com/studebakerparts/store/s/agora.cgi?product=paint&cart_id=correct paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stuben Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 Thank you Rex, the link took me right there and its on the way.Do you happen to have any back issues for April 1994 Turning Wheels? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stuben Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 after disassembly I found the connecting rod and main cap bearings need replaced, I see there are shims on the numbers one and three connecting rod caps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stuben Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 the rod bearing are original poured and the crank shaft needs ground, are there any sources for replacement connecting rods with bearing insertsthat anyone knows of. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nvonada Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 I don't know. The later Commander rods had inserts but I am not sure if they are interchangeable. But if you need babbit bearings poured track down your local old tractor clubs. They will know where to get it done. By the way back in the day the mechanic would just remove the shims and get another few thousand miles out of the bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cowtown Commander Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 (edited) The following will work for 36 engines check with others to see if you can use on 1935. (3) 520145 rods and (3) 520146 rods which are the later insert bearing rods. Check with Robert Kapteyn. who replied to you in #8. He is in Joliet Ill. 100 miles west of you.Robert Kapteynstudebaker@mac.comTalk to Rex who responded to you in #6. You are lucky to be located very close to these two as they have an immense knowledge of prewar cars and are very helpful. If the rods work find out what bearing size you need and get the bearings and main bearings at the same time you get the rods. Edited June 11, 2014 by Cowtown Commander Error in original post (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stuben Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 Thank you Cowtown and nvonada, I've contacted Robert for the rods and bearings (hope hes got them). The machine shop will call after the initial measurements. I'll be cleaning parts for the next few days and then paintingwish there was a stock color photo of the engine although i do like the carb and distributor in its patina glory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stuben Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 many years ago the engine was repaired by a tractor mechanic, that would explane the john deer green engine and yellow oil filler and dipstick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stuben Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 https://www.studebakerparts.com/studebakerparts/store/s/agora.cgi?product=engine9&next=24&cart_id=4413.21132i found these rods at studebakerparts.comi'm guessing the 35 dictator is the same as the 36 commander Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cowtown Commander Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 (edited) I went back and checked the parts book again, I forgot that 35 was models 1A & 2A and the parts book indicates those rods work in 36 (3A & 4A) so I'm guessing that they are not going to work on 35 unless there is some mod that can be done. Rex or Robert are probably going to be able to tell you if the insert rods can be modified to work. Sorry for error in previous post. Edited June 11, 2014 by Cowtown Commander (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
studerex Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 Did you take it to Kaleys? They should be able to get the babbiting done for you, and align bore the mains. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stuben Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 I did not take it to Kaleys motor service instead its at shakers, he knows where to get the babbit redone as well but i would like to get away from the shims on the rod capsthats where the over tightness was comming from and too much resistance. as soon as they were disconnected the crank would rotate freely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
studeq Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 There was no Commander in 1936, only the President and Dictator. You definitely should invest in a parts book!! The best one for your use would be the green covered 1934-46 Chassis book. I do have a duplicate so contact me by pm if interested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
studerex Posted June 11, 2014 Share Posted June 11, 2014 Shakers is good. They have done many motors for me. Have him remove the shims and see if they can be resized. If not have them babbited without using shims. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stuben Posted June 12, 2014 Share Posted June 12, 2014 i have four catalogs, i thought i had three in a PM Studeq.I agree with you Rex, i would like it to be a simple fix like polishing the crank and honeing the babbit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stuben Posted June 17, 2014 Share Posted June 17, 2014 this is the the color of stuff i usually wipe off cars and im useing it as paint what color should the oil filler and dip stick be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbk Posted June 19, 2014 Share Posted June 19, 2014 (edited) The 1935 Dictator engine is entirely different from the 1936.The 1935 engine is a variant of the Cole-Vail engine designed by two engineers from Willys.This engine design was used in the 1932 Model 65 and all 1933 Rockne's.It was continued in the 1934/35 Dictators with minor changes.This engine had a problem with blocks cracking and for the 1936 year , the engine was redesigned.Water distribution tubes were added to cool the engine more evenly and prevent cracking the block.The 1932/35 engines worked well if not abused.Studebaker offered 1936 engines at very low prices as replacements for the older engines.The engine mounting was different but they offered a kit to install these in older cars.If you look at the divers side of L.H.C.1932/35 Studebaker Rockne 65 and 10 and 1934/35 Dictator engines you can see the outlines of the cylinders in the block.On the 1936 - up engines it was a solid wall.I have yet to determine the difference in rods.As close as you are to the archives at the Studebaker museum,I would look at the blueprints of the rods and see.A good machine shop may be able to machine your rods to accept insert bearings.Robert Kapteyn Edited June 19, 2014 by rbk (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbk Posted June 19, 2014 Share Posted June 19, 2014 A quick way to tell the 1932/35 engines from the 1936 and later engines used in Dictators is that they moved the fuel pump more to the front of the engine.Robert Kapteyn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stuben Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 (edited) Robert. Thank you for the input, heres a photo or the fuel pump location which is in the front of the engine, Also the drivers side of the engine is in post #15 and 24. Edited June 20, 2014 by stuben (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
studeq Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 That would be a poor guess. First there was no 1936 Commander (only Dictator and President in '36), second the part number for the 1934 and 1935 Dictator was 180699 and 180700. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbk Posted June 21, 2014 Share Posted June 21, 2014 Graham Gagne in Canada shows the 180699 rods in stock.http://www.kgworks.ca/studeparts/enginepage.htmRobert Kapteyn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stuben Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 Hello, Ive found a person to babbit my connecting rods, also have purchased cam bearings but I am still looking for main bearings, undersized by .015 to .020If anyone has a lead as to where i might find aftermarket or original I would really appreciate it, thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stuben Posted June 30, 2014 Share Posted June 30, 2014 Without damageing the air cleaner, how or where does it come apart.Its just setting on the carb, I want to disassemble the Air cleaner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roadmaster37 Posted July 22, 2014 Share Posted July 22, 2014 I am restoring a 35 Dictator funeral coach. I need a door latch for the drivers side. Also need better door latches, look brass. Also where is a good source for rubber moldings? I'm located in Council Bluffs, Ia. You can reach me at 402-699-7442. Thanks Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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