Bush Mechanic

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About Bush Mechanic

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    Tasmania, Aus.

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  1. Bush Mechanic


    I'm not an expert on early bodies, but it is quite likely that the door is OK, and the tub itself has sagged outward. The one I'm working on at the moment (1923) has a couple of bad gaps, until I fit the packing pieces between the body and chassis. It is more likely the 'B' post at fault than the 'A' post at the cowl, so I would look first at the steel angle bracket holding the 'B' post. This is assuming that I have understood correctly that the gap is across the body. If it is along the body it will most likely be a packing adjustment issue between the body and chassis. The body is off the chassis, so is free to sag and move out of line. My apologies if I misunderstood your problem. Sweet little car, too.
  2. Bush Mechanic

    My 1910 Mitchell "parts car" project

    Wow! That's around 4.9 litres. Quite a large displacement, to my way of thinking. (Though not by US standards, no doubt). It should produce plenty of usable torque at low revs. While I don't know what the upper rev limit would be in an engine of that type, I imagine at 2000 it would be pretty busy. Or do these old girls safely spin well above that?
  3. Bush Mechanic

    My 1910 Mitchell "parts car" project

    That came out well. Certainly a substantial component. Can you tell us the displacement of this engine, please? I am sure it is in the previous text, but I have not been able to locate it. It looks such a small car on the flat-bed, while the engine looks to be of a larger capacity.
  4. Bush Mechanic

    How to Soften Leather Universal Joint Covers

    I treated some leather brake rod covers with Dubbin, yesterday. Rub it in, and heat helps it to penetrate. That is a leather dressing consisting mainly of neatsfoot oil and tallow. Been using it on my work boots for longer than I care to remember.
  5. Bush Mechanic


    And the SCAT project that I was chasing was Società Ceirano Automobili Torino. Unfortunately I had a lot of competition from Italy and the eventual buyer, who was from Germany. Another one that left Australia to return to Europe.
  6. Bush Mechanic

    My 1910 Mitchell "parts car" project

    Unfortunately I dropped mine, and now it's stuck in Cantonese.
  7. Bush Mechanic

    My 1910 Mitchell "parts car" project

    I had not heard of one either. Something a bit heavier would be handy. It's hard to better This Old Tony. I finally watched the multi-metre episode last night. April first release. Tears were running from laughter.
  8. Bush Mechanic

    My 1910 Mitchell "parts car" project

    You could build one yourself, when you have nothing else to do...
  9. Bush Mechanic

    My 1910 Mitchell "parts car" project

    " but I'm in this so far that I don't see any reason to stop now." Now that's the kind of sentiment we need!
  10. Bush Mechanic

    1960 MGA Restoration

    I strip mine and blast them at low pressure (45 lb) with fine glass beads. It gets into the awkward areas, and makes them look like new aluminium. I usually buff up the dash pots, to finish them off. To give you an indication of how they come up, here is a photo of the HS4's that I run on my 1275 Midget. They had just had a birthday. New shafts and bushes, and a bead blast.
  11. Bush Mechanic

    Calculating compression ratio...

    Batwing-eight, in reply to your original query, yes, the head gasket is included in the calculations. And yes, there are commonly variations in the chamber volumes from cylinder to cylinder on factory heads. This is mainly due to variations in the sand casting surface. And I don't remember ever finding a standard head which quite achieved it's advertised compression ratio. It's called gilding the lily.
  12. Bush Mechanic

    My 1910 Mitchell "parts car" project

    Yes, I must have been looking at the wrong model of RR. The threaded tail-pipe connector on the exhaust manifold above looks very similar to yours as well. I had not noticed that type before you built yours. By mandrel bends, I mean machine formed tube bends which you buy off the shelf. 30, 45 90, 180 and 360 degree (dough-nut) bends and 'Y' pieces, etc. Locally available here in stainless, black and coated (exhaust) steel, in a good choice of diameters. Endless possibilities. Cut, rotate, weld, and finish so that the joints disappear. Lots of fun. I think some-one, (Alsfarms?) mentioned them in your thread. I first found them about 25 years ago, but have no idea when they came into use.
  13. Bush Mechanic

    My 1910 Mitchell "parts car" project

    I looked up the RR manifolds. The three into one Wraith unit certainly would be rather difficult to construct by machining methods, but reasonably straight forward with a box of mandrel bends, a 'Y' piece and a welder. The P1 'log' manifold is probably not very efficient, but could be constructed OK. In either case they would not look particularly 'pukka', if originality was important. I like that long induction tube passing over the head on the P1. Perhaps I can see a trace of it's influence in the inlet manifold on your Mitchell?
  14. Bush Mechanic

    My 1910 Mitchell "parts car" project

    Core plugs have many uses. I find it interesting watching how you find solutions by machining. Having started out with welders, and no lathe or mill, my thinking usually tends toward welding fabrication. Though I have only built 3 or 4 exhaust manifolds. The mandrel bends are a great resource for building them. Much easier to get a neat finish than with the packed sand bending methods which I persevered with originally. Thanks for taking the time to document your restoration. I have picked up a few machining tricks from your posts. Mick.
  15. Bush Mechanic

    My 1910 Mitchell "parts car" project

    Very professional looking end caps. How did you decide to fix them into place?