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About rodneybeauchamp

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 10/09/1954

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Encounter Bay, South Australia
  • Interests:
    1963 Buick Riviera, model railway, tinkering, improving things, swap meets, living life.

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  1. Mystery Bracket

    Spot on, is the rear mounting bracket for the console on first generation Riviera. It is upside down, should be a U shape when screwed to the transmission tunnel hump. The two speed nut threads are where two of the chrome screws secure the Left and right rear metal chrome vents. Ah memories, wonderful memories of the heater core remove and replace.
  2. Hi beam flickering in β€˜63

    I might put a torch in the πŸ‘’ πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€
  3. Hi beam flickering in β€˜63

    Hi Jan, was thinking it through also and was considering using 3 relays, one for low and two for high beams (as their would be 4 lamps on high) . I picked up this afternoon, two 30amp relays with mounting blocks. These are the normally closed 5 pin versions that will have two outputs per relay. Thinking these would be fine for these lamps, but interested in your solution also. So what you are saying is that if one relay fails, I will still have lights on the other three headlamps. Heck, it’s only money, so I might pick up two more.
  4. Slightly off topic, but does anyone do a pan for the 63 Dynaflow that has a drain plug, perhaps deeper pan? Just curious. thanks Rodney
  5. Pinging when floored

    Hi Bob, we have Ethanol fuels but it is labelled as such ..... and I avoid them. And I agree with Tom, correct size bushings are worth the wait. Why do it twice. BTW Tom, I have sent my address details to you in a PM, can you let me know they came through, otherwise I can send again, thanks Rodney
  6. Courtesy light kit LED

    Thank you Eric, I’m very pleased with the results. Courtesy light came in handy for my navigator on a recent evening cruise where he had to map read ......... and he could! And took your advice with the LED strip lighting, all good. Easy to see console shift lighting courtesy of your previous postings. πŸ‘ŒπŸ‘ŒπŸ‘Œ
  7. Coming back from a night cruise found that the high beam lights would flicker after a few minutes. Switching to low beam then back to high gave same result several times, after a few minutes on it would start to flicker. After a few times doing this, I stayed with low beam as I did not want the lights to fail altogether. First time I had used high beam for any length of time. Am running all QH lamps, 60/55 watt high/low and 55 watt high beam. I noticed from the wiring diagram and shop manual there is not a headlamp relay in the circuit. Am I correct on this ? πŸ€”πŸ€”πŸ€”πŸ€” If there is not a relay, I should fit one. Has anyone on the forum done this, if so where did you tap in to the wiring? πŸ€”πŸ€”πŸ€”πŸ€” Would it be beneficial to put both low and high beam circuits on a relay? πŸ€”πŸ€”πŸ€”πŸ€” Thanks Rodney πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€
  8. Courtesy light kit LED

    Just my experience with LEDs has been very positve. obtained warm white LEDs from SuperBrite LEDs (on a sale) and used those on all the interior lamps on my 63. Being warm white, they give a similar light to incandescent without the heat, meaning the lenses stay white and should not yellow or become brittle. All my dash illumination lights are the same, with red and green used in the appropriate coloured warning light. I am really happy with the result and certainly don’t have the harshness of the cool whites at all. I now don’t have an issue with leaving a door open as current draw is minimal and heat is negligible.
  9. Pinging when floored

    So Tom, are there TWO rubber bushings to replace? Can you send me an email and I will get them both. cheers Rodney
  10. Pinging when floored

    Jason, you da man! I had no idea where to look and you give it all in pictures. That’s truely informative. I’m sure the new Wells unit had nothing like that. My old one held vacuum so it may return. And Tom, many thanks for that. I may need to get one from you, if happy to post out. Kongaman, you may be right, however if Tom does have the correct piece, it would be a better fix. And perhaps some silicone would help hold it in place. Though according to Winston, because we are up the other way, it shouldn’t fall down at all. Many thanks to all for help on this πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€ Rodney
  11. Wiper blades for '63

    So Ed, are the original blades just thin strips of metal.? I understood they would have been like these, with all the raised ribs as per this photo. 😳😳😳
  12. Pinging when floored

    Thanks guys, yes after I posted the topic, I did remember about the bush limiting total advance. I can’t remember seeing anything that resembled that. Would someone have a photo to show what it looks like and where it fits. 😳😳😳😳😳😳 FYI I replaced the timing gears and chain almost two years ago and it fired up fine and has ran fine. Am tempted to refit my old vacuum advance and see what that does. At same time would like to fit the limit bush if I can work out from a photo. πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€ And because we have lots of Rivieras down under now (almost as many as you guys) we need high grade fuels. Winston, I tried that but all the high grade fuel ran out all over the engine, not good. I think it has something to do with the distance from the moon and the tides, but not 100% on that.
  13. Hi all, noticed recently that my β€˜63 seems to be pinging when I accelerate more than usual. I am fairly light footed but this concerns me. There is a steepish hill that I sometimes use when coming home, and it seems to ping going up the grade under acceleration. Am running a premium grade unleaded 98 octane, timing and dwell is correct, New cap, rotor and vacuum advance unit fitted. When distributor was out I cleaned and lubricated all moving parts, removed all burrs from weights etc, and it all seemed to move freely. Any clues as to what to look for, whether a possible vacuum leak at brake reservoir or something I am missing. many thanks πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€
  14. Wiper blades for '63

    Hi guys, just received som Trico 43-180 refills and disappointed. πŸ‘ŽπŸ‘ŽπŸ‘ŽπŸ‘ŽπŸ‘ŽπŸ‘ŽπŸ‘ŽπŸ‘ŽπŸ‘ŽπŸ‘ŽπŸ˜‘πŸ˜‘πŸ˜‘πŸ˜‘πŸ˜‘πŸ˜‘ The Amazon web site shows refills with the metal ribs spaced along the length of the blade whereas what was received was just plain metal backings with no ribs. They possibly will fit the blades but don't look the part. The last photo is from their site, others are what was received. 😑😑😑😑😑 So still looking for some original metal backed ribbed wiper inserts or blades. 😒😒😒😒😒😒😒😒😒
  15. Hi David, I did mine last year in my β€˜63. If they are the same as 65 then they are not difficult, but just time consuming. I took lots of photos along the way and had to clean and refurbish and renew bits as I found them, which consumes lots of time. (Just waiting for bits to arrive takes time) I removed both seats and carpet and console, distributor and cover on the firewall. It is great practice for being a contortionist as some of the Fasteners are not easy to get to. And if the floor pan is rusty, gives you an opportunity to clean it and repaint it and new sound deadening and underlay and ...... And I had a radiator guy repair and test my core which was plugged and leaking but was still a sound Harrison unit. That way I knew all my efforts would not have to be repeated if an inferior aftermarket replacement failed. Cos I don’t want to do it again, Or you could take it to a Buick dealer as the repair time is only about 8 hours or so (ha ha) The ROA gives details of both methods that you can print out. One is where you cut a bigger hole in the fire wall and pull it out that way or the traditional way is where you take out the console. Because you end up removing lots of other bits to get to it, the job can seem quite daunting. But just do one thing everyday towards it and keep focused. Once you have done it you get a badge and tee shirt which says ”I removed and replaced the heater core in a first generation Riviera and survived (just) to tell the tale.” πŸ˜‡πŸ˜‡πŸ˜‡πŸ˜‡πŸ˜‡πŸ˜‡πŸ˜‡πŸ˜€πŸ˜€πŸ˜€