MikeC5

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About MikeC5

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    1925 Dodge Touring
  • Birthday 02/05/1960
  1. Good advice. You may be surprised how much wear the packings can inflict on the shaft. Mine had very deep grooves on what was probably the original shaft. Hopefully the rest of it is in decent shape.
  2. My First Classic Since 2008

    It doesn't look that bad. I like it!
  3. Early DB Top help

    Thanks Tinindian. I wouldn't have thought of that.
  4. Early DB Top help

    I'm glad I asked Dave. No one in the family does quilting so a full roll would be wasteful. The only place close to home that has cotton batting is Joanne fabrics and it looks to light and fluffy. The pads front to back measure around 8 feet so assuming I used 1 layer of full pad width that's around 5.5 yards. If it's wide enough to cut down the middle only 3 yards. It would be great if you can sell it to me. I'm in Waterford, CT. Please let me know the total and preferred method of payment.
  5. Early DB Top help

    I see what you mean on the padding. I found this cotton batting on-line which is 14 oz. per yard. Does this look as if it will do the job?
  6. Can anyone identify this car?

    I'm probably the only one who still uses the 'print screen' button on the keyboard...
  7. 1976 ELDORADO CONVERTIBLE - ANY THOUGHTS

    I was given a '76 (hardtop) back in '89. It spent most of its life in Queens, NY and was then retired to south FL. The body was badly rusted and the bumper extensions were gone. Luckily, being body on frame and open C-channel frame, it was structurally fine. I put a trailer hitch on it and used it for several years to tow a 20' boat. Everything still worked, all I ever had to do was replace cracked CV boots. I wouldn't normally recommend FWD for towing/boat ramp duty but the thing was a beast. With that big 500 ci and transmission over the front wheels it never spun a tire or broke a sweat pulling the boat/trailer up the ramp. It had the 4 wheel disc brakes which did an admirable job stopping things but did use up brake pads quickly! Sadly, the car got flooded and never recovered from that.
  8. Great! I'm glad you got it and it wasn't expensive. I know you have mud clearance but still be careful.
  9. I missed your post saying you think it is an ignition problem. Did the mechanics check that the points were clean? Connections to the coil good? Did they check at the plugs for spark?
  10. I usually pull the choke all the way out for a cold start and then after just a few seconds push it back about half way for another 10 or so seconds and then off. This works consistently for me and only requires 2 - 3 seconds of cranking (engine cold). I think you did say you had spark. If so, then it has to be a some kind of fuel problem. Can you tell if the electric pump runs when ignition is on? You can verify that gas is reaching the carb fuel bowl by removing the two screws holding the cover on to see in the bowl. The fuel line (with blue arrow) goes to the bottom of the fuel bowl. If there is fuel in there but no hint of combustion when cranked over, it could be the carb has debris in it and needs attention. As mentioned above, you can try a little starting fluid and if it does cough (tries to start), it helps confirm that fuel isn't getting to the cylinders.
  11. Romar and Myers Early Dodge are your best bets for parts.
  12. A vacuum tank. It's a can shaped device that pulls fuel from the fuel tank using engine vacuum. It then feeds fuel into the carburetor by gravity from the line on the bottom of the can. Your car must have an electric fuel pump hidden somewhere if the vacuum tank is not there. This is a '25 Dodge set up but it isn't much different than '20.
  13. How often do you start it up? Dirty points can do it too if the car is left to sit for months (light corrosion on the contacts). Sometimes a little piece of fine emery paper folded and puled through the (closed) points will get them conducting again.
  14. Early DB Top help

    I'm glad you are enjoying the thread and am sorry to learn of the bad experience you had. I am surprised that a senior member of the AACA forums would be treated like that; it's not as if you were brand new to the forum and trying to sell something. I guess some folks are a bit paranoid of scams and get carried away. It is great that a craftsman/enthusiast is willing to help an amateur, such as myself. There isn't a whole lot of information out there on how to go about doing a top from scratch and Dave's postings on the subject and help here really encouraged me to give it a try. I try to help others where I can too. It's really the backbone of the hobby to me.