fraso

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About fraso

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  • Birthday 07/08/1963

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    Fort Erie, ON

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  1. fraso

    1929 Chrysler - Oil Pressure

    My Motor Manual only goes back to 1935 but I don't think that 1929 cars were spec'd much differently. The warm weather (above +32°F) specified viscosity for 1935 cars was SAE 20 with an oil pressure of 45 psi @ 30 mph. If you're only getting 10 psi at 30 mph with fully warm SAE 30, then you've likely got some mechanical issues to address. It is natural for engine oil to become thinner (less viscous) with increasing temperature. The oil pressure you see on your gauge is a reflection of the oil's flow and downstream flow resistance. Before doing anything else, I would double check the oil pressure with an oil pressure gauge of known accuracy. It could just be that your gauge is way out of calibration. See Engine Wear.
  2. I think you need to check engine lengths to make sure that a slant six will fit. I think the slant six is slightly longer than the flathead. Another option is to put in a 3.9L engine from a Dodge Dakota, which will come with an overdrive transmission. I would go with an A500 automatic transmission with the hydraulic control. The A500 has a slightly larger body than the A904, which requires some floor pan modification on cars but might fit fine in your truck. See Junkyard Wagon !966 Dodge Dart Wagon v-6 in early A-body
  3. fraso

    Ziebart Undercoating - Good or Bad idea?

    Being in Canada, I regularly rustproof my daily drivers and I've tried several different systems. Krown works well but it seems to continuously creep. It doesn't bother me but my wife hates dark film that appears around body panel edges all year. The dark colour may be due to previous rustproofing coatings that were black. I have a 73 Dart that was rustproofed long before we got it. Wherever the coating was intact, the metal was sound. My father did a DIY undercoating of his 77 Pontiac when he bought it. Wherever the coating was applied, the metal was good. Too bad he didn't have the wands to get inside the door panels and other inaccessible places. We bought a new car this year and I decided to go with Ziebart's Permanent Rust Protection system because, although it goes on wet, it sets into a waxy film. It was more expensive upfront but cheaper in the long run with annual touch-ups than the oil spray. I think the skill and conscientiousness of the oil sprayer is more important than the particular brand of spray. I've had rustproofing jobs where the shop missed many places or barely gave the surfaces any coating. It would wise to check any rustproofing work after the application and go back if it looks inadequate. See Undercoating.
  4. A GM HEI conversion would be a better ignition upgrade for your Buick. DAVE's small-body HEI's converts points distributors to electronic ignition distributors. Dave recommends using the original points coil but I think its better to use a low primary resistance (0.5-0.7 ohms) coil instead. I just did the HEI Ignition Upgrade of my Barracuda and it works great. See HEI Ignition Upgrade.
  5. fraso

    what kind and viscosity oil in a 1911 4 cylinder?

    I don't have an earlier reference so I leafed through my 1935-53 Motor Manual and noticed that the summer grade (above +32°F) specified for many 1930s makes was SAE 20. Ford/Lincoln/Mercury, Packard, and Studebaker specified SAE 30. I would not expect that an earlier make would have specified an SAE 40 unless ambient temperatures were very hot. For example, the 1938 Dodge owners manual specifies SAE 40 for average daytime temperatures of 90+ °F (ie continuously recurring morning temperature of 70-80°F AND mid-afternoon peak temperature of 100-110°F). Modern oils have much better viscosity indexes so thinner grades do not thin-out in high temperatures like the old oils. I would try to find an owner's and factory service manual for your car. Until then, I would use a 30-grade heavy duty engine oil. I like Petro Canada Duron SHP 10W-30 but Shell Rotella T4 10W-30 and Chevron Delo 400 10W-30 would also be good alternatives.
  6. fraso

    '54 temperature sending unit

    As the fluid (ether?) in the thermometer system expands and contracts with temperature, the fluid acts on a coiled tube (Bourdon Tube) inside the gauge that moves the indicating needle. Since the volume of fluid in the bulb end of the system is much greater than that contained in the connecting tubing, the sensing fluid is most sensitive to the temperature in which the bulb is mounted. The loose coil around the connecting tubing is to protect the tube from damage. Your shop manual should have a section on servicing the temperature gauge. If not, I would think that the sensing fluid should be specified somewhere on the gauge or the bulb. While it's possible to DIY repair your gauge, I think you would be better off sending it to someone who specializes in it. I would try Morris Gauge first as they are an AACA forum member. See Antique Automobile Instrumentation Restoration. Morris Gauge.
  7. fraso

    '54 temperature sending unit

    Gauges are repairable and there are many companies that do this. I did a quick search just now and found Instrument Services, Inc. Gauges can fail for a variety of reasons and it would helpful if you got yourself a factory service manual. I'm not familiar with your car so you'll have to figure out if it's a mechanical or electrical gauge. If it's electrical, it could be the gauge itself, the voltage supply, or the sender.
  8. fraso

    engine temperature and performance

    Once the rad cap relieves excessive coolant, there is no need to remove any more. To ensure that the cooling system works as efficiently as possible, you should do a cooling system flush (with citric or oxalic acid) to remove rust and scale if you haven't already done so. See Cooling System. Your rough running engine could be a sign of some percolation in the carburetor or fuel pump. If you have the hood clearance, it would be useful to add some insulation between the intake manifold and carburetor (like a phenolic spacer). A car runs better with a warm intake manifold and a cool carburetor. See Vapor Lock. Engine oil becomes less viscous with temperature so oil pressure will naturally drop as the oil becomes hotter. Engines require oil flow and oil pressure is a characteristic of flow and temperature. Use a multigrade heavy duty engine oil with viscosity grade recommended by the owner's manual for summer temperatures. That is, if a 30-grade oil was recommended for hot temperatures, any modern 30-grade oil (ie, 0W-30, 5W-30, 10W-30, 15W-30) will work fine. Use the winter rating (ie, 0W-, 5W-, etc) part of the multiviscosity grade to suit your cold weather driving temperatures. Normally, 10W-30 works great in older engines. I like semi-synthetic Petro Canada Duron SHP 10W-30 and Shell Rotella T6 5W-30 is an excellent full synthetic. See Engine Wear and the Corvair Oil Guide.
  9. fraso

    Daily Driver Vintage?

    I drive my own car (a 65 Barracuda) as much as I can while the weather is good - no snow) and 4000-5000 miles per year isn't unusual. If you have more than one car, I would keep your 1955 Oldsmobile as a FAIR WEATHER daily driver. As others have stated, the more you drive it, the more reliable it will become as old failure-prone parts are replaced. There is no need to expose your car to the hazards of adverse weather conditions. Presumably, your engine is mostly stock with the original carburetor. If you're having carburetor problems, you're better off rebuilding your own carburetor than getting a remanufactured one from the parts store. There is no guarantee that the reman was done right or that the carb is properly calibrated for your car. If you can find vintage speed parts for it, then this might be a good opportunity to switch to a different carburetor. If you have a cold hesitation, it would be good to check the condition of the manifold heat control system (heat riser) and you might need to free or lubricate the valve. If you a have vee-engine, the cross-over passage might be plugged with carbon. I would also check the operation of the choke mechanism. I do not recommend disabling this system even in hot climates. Vapor lock can be problem for carburetor cars and an electric fuel pump can often help. See Vapor Lock for more information. Neglected engines can also have a large amount of rust & scale inside the block. I would do an acid flush (citric or oxalic) and refill with a 50/50 solution of antifreeze. See Cooling System. If you're still using a non-detergent engine oil, switch to a Heavy Duty Engine Oil. See the Corvair Oil Guide and Engine Wear.
  10. fraso

    Electric fuel pumpon 31-57???

    I think the "manual" pump is actually a "mechanical" pump. A mechanical pump is usually driven by an eccentric cam on the camshaft and uses check valves to control the direction of flow. If you install an electric pump at the fuel tank, it will push gasoline through the mechanical pump where any vapor would then be released in the carburetor. Not all electric pumps allow gasoline to flow freely through them when not running. In this case, you would need to install a bypass around the electric pump that has a fuel check valve. See Vapor Lock. I suppose if you installed an electric pump that has a high output pressure without using a fuel pressure regulator, the diaphragm in your mechanical pump could rupture to flood the oil pan or the fuel pressure could overcome the float(s) in the carburetor to flood the intake manifold (and then the oil pan).
  11. I have had oil pressure switches go bad on me. I have both the switch and pressure sender (for an aftermarket gauge) teed into the oil switch's port so I know how much pressure I really have. This keeps the oil pressure warning lamp functional so I know immediately if I loose pressure. The warning lamp should not light if you disconnect the switch. That indicates a short in the circuit. If your engine doesn't have worn bearings, a 30-grade oil should be adequate for your needs. Going to an oil with excessive viscosity means that more oil is relieved back to the sump and less reaches the bearings. See Engine Wear.
  12. fraso

    Electric fuel pumpon 31-57???

    I think that adding an electric fuel pump would help with your starting issue and others have done what maok have suggested. I did something similar on my car but used a relay (from Daniel Stern Lighting) to only run the electric pump during starting. See HEI Ignition Upgrade for photos.
  13. fraso

    Electric fuel pump

    Many years ago, I replaced the mechanical fuel pump in my car with a Carter electric pump hoping to fix a performance issue. It didn't fix that issue but I now had a noisy pump and low voltage at idle. This year, after upgrading to an HEI system just a few days ago, I rebuilt the mechanical fuel pump (Then & Now Automotive) and reinstalled it. I kept the electric pump (in series at the gas tank) but set it up to only run at starting with a relay (from Daniel Stern Lighting). See HEI Ignition Upgrade & Vapor Lock.
  14. fraso

    Brighter headlights on our old machines

    Here's a Dan Stern article about lighting posted on the Slant Six forum: Slant Six Forum: Exterior lighting maintenance, resto & upgrade Dan Stern sells lighting components (including relay kits and bulbs) on his web site: Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply
  15. fraso

    Canadian shipping

    You can easily ship anything anywhere for enough money. If you're in Hamilton, one of the easiest way to ship a heavy and bulky parcel(s) would be by Greyhound. The bus station is at 181 Ellicott St, Buffalo, NY 14203. I've once had to ship a 15" Dodge rim and it worked out that Fedex was cheaper. I dropped it off at the Cheektowaga office at 100-1779 Walden Avenue and could have also used the FedEx Ship Center at 299 Cayuga Rd. Be aware that Homeland security will be asking you if you have anything to declare. It would probably be wise to call them first. See Peace Bridge Authority.