dmgoulet

Hi Dave. Sorta chuggin' along. Having knee issues so motivation is low. Some time ago I scrounged up NOS wheel hubs and drums already riveted together... I was having trouble adjusting the brake shoes. I thought maybe the drums were out of round. It ended up the drums were not concentric with the hubs. Brought them up to my dad as he has a buddy that has a lathe to turn them. I have been slowly gathering replacement skins for the bottom edges of the cab. The areas for and aft of the cab doors are not all that great. I've been slowly tackling some if the body work... I will probably need to seek someone who has the proper tools for some of the issues. I've been firing up the motor about once a week for about 15 minutes. I've noticed my oil pressure is always 15psi...I tried another mechanical gauge which showed the same thing. It's either the pump or the pressure regulator... the mo tg or only has about 10k miles on it as I drove the truck around awhile before the trans case cracked...which is when I parked it and started the restore... that was almost 20 years ago.

Hi all. Thought I'd submit an update since it has been awhile. I've been watching alot of videos on body panel repairs so that I might be able to tackle the more complicated repairs. Started working on the running board skirt. It wasn't all that bad to begin with, but did need attention. I still have a bit more to do on it. Notice the ripples: Most of the ripples worked out: Got these running boards from a vendor on ebay. These are very sturdy and the rubber seems very thick.

How badly damaged is the fuel tank? I cut mine open to re-secure the baffle. It hadn't had fuel in it for more than 10 years so I wasnt concerned about exploding. There are some after-market tanks that would fit, but didnt see any with filler tube in correct location. 16" artillery rims would be correct for your truck. I'm looking for some for mine. Door latch springs can be found at Bernbaums or Robert's Motors, or even on ebay. I've seen photos of 35 KCs with different headlight buckets. I opted for Depress Beam ones as they seemed to be on most of the photos I found.

I'll start with clamps. If I have issues I can weld

Definately cheating a bit here. I didnt have original exhaust hangers or the brackets, but several available images to fashion some. I didnt have proper tools to make the hanger that wrapped around the exhaust pipe, but this will work. I have to make a tailpipe hanger. I believe there is enough clearance from the fuel tank.

here is a section from the Parts List manual. It lists a lining (5 yards) as swell as anti-squeak (5 yards)... which seems excessive... so maybe it was thinner and wrapped around the tank? I figured to just put it on the inner side of the support strap and at the locations where the tank met the crossmember. what was there before was pieces of bicycle inner-tube on the straps only... which was surely not what was supposed to be there. There is no heat shield. I've not dove into the exhaust yet. some of the pictures I have in my manuals show the exhaust going down the right side of the frame and exiting the rear between the tank and the outer frame rail.. but my tank goes from rail to rail... so maybe it needs to route to the right some more to exit out the right rear?!! Dennis

Its been awhile since I last posted... My fuel tank had a problem that required resolution. The baffle had broke loose and sheered the float shaft off the sending unit. I did find a replacement sending unit, but had to figure out what to do about the baffle. The tank had not had fuel in it since before 2005, and I had washed it out when it was emptied and left open all this time. A couple weeks ago I took the plunge and cut open a 6" flap in the top of the tank. Inside the tank was quite clean. I re-positioned the baffle back in its original location and did several spot welds at the two lower corners where it met the tank wall. I knocked out what dents/dings I could and slowly spot welded the flap to close the tank. some scrubbing and sanding to clean up the outside before some primer and a jet-black final coat. I found some 1" felt 'anti-squeak' strips (for a Jeep fuel tank) and cut them to sized I thought i required. I used some 3M Super 77 adhesive to attach them to the underside of the frame, and surfaced one side of the tank straps with the felt. Tank is finally in the frame after at least 16 years. Need to get a fitting to attach the fuel line to the tank. I am missing one of the bulk-head connectors at the front right where the fuel line goes from the outside of the frame to the engine area. I found a different bulk-head connector that will work, but its a mismatch and quite ugly. I need make fuel lines that go from point to point rather than used pre-fab lines pieced together. Luckily I have the spring-like protector for the part of the fuel line where it runs the outside of the frame at the front wheel.

The 34-36 KC/LC service manual calls for SAE 160 for summer and SAE 90 for winter. I currently have 90 in mine right now. Wonder if anyone has tried 160!

I have the same trans leak on my 35 KC. Not sure if a higher weight gear oil than 90w would help or cause other issues. Hopefully someone will have a viable solution

Hi Jolly_John. I am certain this is the crossmember just forward of the bell housing on the truck you indicated.. you can see it in the image here.

I just checked my measurements. from the center of the top bolt of the crossmember to the bottom of the frame is 3-1/2", and from the bottom edge of the crossmember to the the bottom of the frame is 3-1/2" for a total of 7"... based on your measurement, I am 3/8" too high in the frame. To fix easy, I will cut the end plates off and create new ones to allow me to lower the crossmember. thanks much.. this will give me the clearance I need where the top of the trans is up too high where the metal floor plate mounts to the wood floor board.

Awesome! Thanks much. This should allow me to confirm if mine is somewhat correct

Awesome. Thanks much. Nice truck.

I have asked in the truck forum, but got similar responses. This additional photo is from the service manual and my serial number falls in t bgg e range for this style. I am 100% positive I'm on the right style, just dont have correct dimensions somewhere. Also including actual partial pictures of my frame and crossmember

I have a 35 KC pickup with the frame identical to the one shown in this attached photo (not mine). The rear crossmember shown supporting the bell housing was missing from my truck, lost when a V8 engine was installed in the 60's. I managed to scrape up pieces to make one, but I'm not certain that it is correct. The trans will hit the floorboard. Either the trans needs to go down, or the cab needs to go up. If I raise the cab, it creates alignment issues with other body parts. I figure if someone else has the same frame and crossmember configuration, maybe they could provide a measurement. I'm hoping someone could provide a measurement by placing a straight edge in the underside 'U' of the crossmember and provided the distance from the top of the straight edge to the bottom of the frame rail. Thanks in advance.

Slow but steady work in progress. Adjusted the TC-4301a regulator using the Autolite generator/regulator manual. Prior to adjusting, I was only getting 6.5 volts at the battery. At high idle, just below 8v, and low idle, down to 7v. I rebuilt the generator myself, and I needed to be sure it actually worked. Luckily I succeeded. Another checklist item completed. While running the engine, I noticed it idles rich. High idle for 15 minutes consumed almost 1/4 gallon of fuel. Low idle for same timeframe consumes about the same. I rebuilt the carb a few months ago, but there must be something still wrong with it.

Try Rhode Island Wire. I bought a complete wire harness and it had these connectors on it. They sell pieces parts as well.

Hi all. Trying to determine the correct height the rear of the engine/trans is supposed to be (factory height). The crossmember in this picture was made from splicing parts from several sources and to replicate what was seen in a photo. The problem I am having is that the floorboards are hitting the trans. I am trying to determine if trans needs to go lower or cab needs more shimming. Does anyone have original crossmember installed that they can measure the distance from bottom of frame to bottom flat on crossmember?

Hi all. Still having a bit of trouble deciding if the rear of the engine/trans is too high, or if I need to raise my cab up some more. Since my dad and I made the rear crossmember from pieces obtained in the distant past from members here, I am wondering if anyone can provide me some simple measurements. I just put a straight-edge (my 4' level) in the groove of the under-side of the rear crossmember. From that, I measured the distance between the bottom of the frame rails to the top edge of my straight-edge. I measured 1-5/8" on both sides. Can anyone possibly confirm if I am too high or too low? Here is an image of what it looks like. Only problem is that the top of the transmission is too high that the metal plate that screws to the wood floor board wont sit flush against the board. any help is greatly appreciated. Dennis

Haven't posted in awhile. Been working on required maintenance on the house and my 97 Dakota was demanding some attention. I have been collecting pieces-parts for the instrument cluster. It's now fully functional, but needs a few finishing touches... paint the bracket, find some material that goes on the guages that the instrument lamp shines through, and make some cork rings to seal the glass lenses. I couldn't find the exact ignition coil lock switch, but found one that I modified to work, and it came with the door lock cylinder with matching keys. I delled a hole thru the cluster bracket and welded a steel screw to it thru the hole to hold the key switch in place On my agenda is to get my broken loose fuel tank baffle repaired and have the tank sealed...luckily it is actually in good structural condition. Also am still twiddling with aligning the front end body panels/parts (front fenders, radiator and shell, running boards and skirts, and the hood and cab) it's close, but something is up because I cannot get everything to meet up with all mounting holes without oxerflexing some things... and I want to get the electrical hooked up so I can fire the motor...I have been cranking it with the starter to keep the oil pushed around.

I spent some of my childhood in Pyatt, AR, and went to UofA Fayetteville for two years. now in Little Rock area. Good to hear you found your frame number. I got my build sheet from Chrysler a couple years ago. I didn't have any tags on the firewall, only the engine number from the registration... the original engine is long gone, but I got a 230cid and gathered correct mounts, bell housing and trans..

Hi OzarkDodgeMan. I have a 35 as well. it took me awhile to find my number on the frame. it is on the left side of the frame just aft of the rear shackle of the front spring. I had to use a flashlight in a dark garage to find any identify the numbers because the impressions were light. What part of the Ozarks?

Finally something new to share on my project. I purchased a wire harness from RIWire and carefully pulled the correct portion into the cab. In an earlier post, I indicated I found headlight bucket connectors and the bucket wire harness. I rebuilt the sockets and connectors. They are alive!!!!! Parking lights and headlights work

I did notice the numbers on the connector, and I recall seeing the numbers on the wiring schematic in my manual. I doubt I can remove these terminals from the ends of these wires as they are crimped on. I have purchased the semi-spherical ones, but haven't located the flat ones.

well, I managed to find some beat up headlight buckets on ebay that had the connectors still in place. I bought it them for under 60 bucks. I pulled the connectors out and gave them a bit of cleaning. Got some headlight bucket wiring from Mac's as suggested, Now that I have all the parts needed for this, I can start restore of the headlight buckets, harness, and reflectors. I bought some lenses that are in great shape too. Ever so slow progression.