Trailer

[Guest Jay Fitzgerald]

I am interested in buying an enclosed trailer to haul my 1929 Cadillac DCP - but before I do I would appreciate receiving any suggestions from members with experiences so I know what to look for or avoid.

[jrbartlett]

You'll get a lot of suggestions on the trailer make -- I assume you're looking for an enclosed trailer with four-wheel electric brakes. My recommendations deal with some of the details.

A remote-controlled electric winch is useful in terms of increasing the versatility of the trailer (hauling broke-down cars). I have a 22-foot enclosed trailer, and find that the slightly shorter length compared to the standard 24-foot size really helps when backing up inclined driveways (the length seems to be removed at the rear). I've had no problems balancing really long cars in the trailer. I akso recommend oversized brakes, axles (minimum 5,500 pounds each) and wheels, to minimize trouble on the road. I replaced my 15-inch wheels with 16-inchers, and installed light truck radials. I don't begin to approach their weight limit with any of my cars, some of which are heavier than your Caddy. The bigger tires completely ended my previous tire trouble. My brother owns an RV storage facility, and he says its amazing how many trailers are on maxed-out tires, and how often they come back in with damage from blowouts. You might think about 8-lug wheels, if the pattern will match that on your tow vehicle. It gives you more options on spare tires, and I think these come on even heavier axles (which usually means bigger brakes). The tow vehicle should be a 3/4-ton truck or larger. I've found no need for a load leveling hitch or anti-sway device, but tow with a long-wheelbase F-250. It has never swerved once. Others may have different opinions. This will be an interesting thread.

[Bhigdog]

A 24' trailer will allow ample room in front of the car for all the ancillary stuff you will end up hauling. I second the need for a winch. Do not be tempted to haul with an undersized vehicle. Wheel base is your friend, as is horsepower. Tow vehicle Manufacturers allowable tow ratings are overly optimistic by a factor of 30%. If ordering a new trailer, pay x-tra and get load range E tires. Opt for an electric tongue jack. Carry lots of chocks/wood spacer blocks. Carry at least one "no parking" cone to put behind trailer. Buy and carry a "trailer buddy" jacking chock. BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH........Bob.

[Shop Rat]

Once you decide on what you want be sure and check on-line for prices. We got a great trailer from Millennium Trailers in Ind. Our trailer actually is a Vintage brand trailer (Vintage builds their own trailers and the ones for Millennium) that was built for shows but was too big to fit into the space available at the show. It has an 8' X 12' camper in the front and the cargo/car box in the back. Heat, A/C, beds, fridge/freezer, sink, stove, micro-wave oven, shower/bathroom combo and lots of storage. They even knocked $2,000 off of the price because we drove from W. Va. to get it. Otherwise they have to pay someone like my step-son to deilver them.

They can custom built trailers also.

[Barry Wolk]

Or, you can make your own. Detailed instructions available. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I'd recommend three axles. You'll never mind the extra braking capacity. Consider hydraulically activated disc brakes instead of electric drums. Consider an air suspension. I can raise my trailer up 9" by adding air pressure to the bags. Easily takes care of the steep driveways.

Get a well-made weight equalizing hitch. I chose Equal-I-Zer after having a cheap POS fall apart on the maiden voyage.

[Mark Shaw]

Do you already have a tow vehicle capable of hauling the weight of your car, tools, luggage, and all the people & stuff in the cab?

Maximum allowable loads include everything....

Check it out:

http://www.klenger.net/arctic-fox/weight/index.html

[West Peterson]

It is better to buy your trailer first, then your truck. Too many people buy their truck first, thinking all they want is an open trailer, or a minimum-duty enclosed trailer. So they get a minimum-duty truck. Go decide upon your trailer, THEN go get a truck capable of pulling it. For pulling any sort of car at all, above 2,000 pounds, you shouldn't look at anything with less than two axles and electric brakes.

[Friartuck]

Trailer Considerations

1. Gross Vehicle Weight, most trailers handle 10,500 pounds, consider getting larger tires and axles rated for 12,000 GVW

2. Height. Is an opening of 7 foot enough? If some collectable cars of the ?teen era? tend to be higher requiring a larger trailer. If you think you will never trailer a tall car, then stay with standard height.

3. Left side door. Having a left side ?pass door? over the axles is handy. Is standard among some models.

4. Spare tire. Include spare tire in your order. Locating the spare in a hidden floor compartment saves space, but can be havoc if you need it and there is a car over it.

5. Electric winch is a good idea. Make sure it?s mounted to the frame (e.g. U bolts over the channel). Run adequate (suggest 8 gauge or better) cable from the tow vehicle battery to a specialized two prong quick disconnect at the trailer hitch.

6. Reese or Equal-I-Zer hitch system that offers BOTH weight distribution and sway control. Barry Wolk?s experience (well documented in other threads) shows the perils of an inadequate hitch.

7. Electric trailer tongue jack is a nice convenience which usually located right behind the tongue. If you have a tongue jack on the outside of the frame rail, it may interfere with the hitch?s weight distribution bars, forcing you to have to move the jack (using snap ring pliers) before installing the weight distribution bar.

8. Consider a tongue weight scale (approx $125 and documented in other discussion forum threads). Helps establish where to position the car and ensuring sufficient weight. Offerred at camping trailer sales locations. Perhaps borrowing one and do it once.

9. Look at the height of the inner fender wells. Will your car be able to pull in and open the door without hitting the fender well. Ideally the door should swing above the well. 30?s cars probably have enough clearance, but 60?s cars may not. This would force you to climb out the window or add raise the height of the floor to get clearance. Exercise care when choosing your trailer.

10. Thin pass door on the front passenger side. Usually standard.

11. Consider using the E-Track System to the floor for securing the car while in transit. E-Track can be purchased through McMaster-Carr Industrial supplier. Don?t forget the E-Track clips and straps.

12. Consider laying down a vinyl floor covering as offered by Better Life Technology, LLC Better Life's Web Page for easy clean-up of oils and spills. Put down the E-Track over the vinyl covering.

13. Consider a special trailer cover to protect it while in long term storage. The sun and elements really reek havoc on an unprotected unit.

14. Consider using small jack stands on the rear frame members and in conjunction with the tongue jack to take some of the weight off the springs while in long term storage.

15. If using electric brakes, investigate how the controller is installed and will be used. I believe starting in 2005, Ford now integrates it into their wiring and brake systems. Other brands may or already did follow suit.

That's all folks! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

[Shop Rat]

Something to add to Friatucks list.

16. Good sized back up lights. Our 32' trailer did not have any at all. We ended up installing a set of driving lights in the ramp. They work great but it was a task to dismantle the ramp, install the lights and then put it all back together. It would have been so much easier to have the factory to have already done it. Many trailers/RVs etc. do not have backup lights or if they do they are small like the ones on cars. You can't see anything with those. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" /> And it's not like you NEVER back them up. Our RV has back-up lights even though it has the infa-red camera on the rear area.

[Guest Jay Fitzgerald]

Thanks to everyone who took the time to post a comment or suggetion. I appreciate them all !

Jay Fitzgerald

[Guest beaulieu]

Mirrors mirrors mirrors,

you need to be able to see around the trailer ,

you need to see next to the trailer,

you need to see next to your tow rig,

I do not think you can do this with a single mirror per side

Beaulieu