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Packard window garnish


Randy S

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Hello everyone. I'm new the the Packard experience as I purchased my first Packard in Hershey 2006. I have a 1934, 1100 series four door sedan. I need to remove the rear door garnish to do a little R&R on the window mechanism. There are no screws, so they must be "loaded" using spring clips or something but I just can't seem to figure it out.

Can anyone help?

Thanks,

Randy

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RE - 1933-34 garnish mouldings

Be GENTLE with that tool ! Suggest you start at the TOP of the moulding, GENTLY pull it down with the tool, so you can slide it away from the clips, THEN you can simply lift up the moulding off the lower spring clips !

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well guess what gang......the garnish mouldings were NAILED IN!!!! Man, when I got finished pulling that monster off I had worked up a sweat....We're in good shape now as we will re-install with tiny screws like should have been done in the first place. No clips...must have been a different model with them. It would have been alot easier if they were there.

Randy "tired" Stone

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I am puzzled. For 1934 production, NO SCREWS and NO NAILS to hold the side door & side window mouldings on ANY series "production" Packard 8. These are stamped steel, PAINTED to look like wood.

They snap in and out with clips, (well, I take that back, at least in the front doors - you have to rotate the ventilator handle around so you can get at the little miniature "blind" screw that holds the handle on).

Am very curious about this? Butcher job by some amatuer who couldn't figure out how the factory did it? Some mid-production wierd thing I am not familiar with (unlikely). Can we have some photos ?

Interesting story about this. There was so much resentment about the cheapo stamped sheet-metal window mouldings, Packard went back to real wood the following year, and continued that on the "big" Packards clear thru the end of the 1930's. (hey..if you really want to have fun with some restored "trailer queen"...look for Philips Head screws. I dont recall seeing Philips Heads used to retain the wood mouldings until '38. ? ? ?

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Well, no pictures as we fixed the problem with the door panel and put the garnish right back in. No question they were original, metal painted to look like wood. The guys I have helping me on this said this was typical so it must be the back window vs the front window installation.......

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Congratulations on getting a 34 Packard 1100, I looked this car over very carefully at Hershey as I've owned a 34 1100 for more than 40 years now, though mine is primarily unrestored and a driver. Yes, the window garnish moldings are grained metal, in fact the only genuine wood trim inside the car are the rear seat ash tray surrounds. I'll drop in a picture of my 1100 if I can figure out how. Also, I'd be glad to help with any questions on the 1100.

post-49751-143137925414_thumb.jpg

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WOW! That doesn't look like a driver to me! Since Hershey we have done some of the little things that the car needed. New carpet was installed and we fixed the problem with the rear windows being difficult to roll down. This was the garnish problem, the nails used to install it has "worked" out and were binding the glass. We re-installed tiny SS screws. I've done some cleanup on the engine and spotted in and buffed out the few blemishes in the paint. I'm going for a First Junior in New Bern so wish me luck!!!!

Randy

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Funny story about Randy and I. I told Randy that I had Trippe lights for sale when he posted a request about them on this forum. Anyway he posts his email address and I send him pictures. I then get an email from another forum member-so this is guy number 2. Then I get an email from Randy with his phone number and telling me of his interest in the lights. I don't make a connection between his first email and this email because of the forum names and real names. We talk over the phone and he wants to buy them. I tell him that he's number three so I need to to contact the first two to see if they want them. So he's got this puzzled sound in his voice but says OK. Later that evening I noticed my error, and so I tell Randy he's the #1 and #3 guy and the lights are his. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> Anyway, we made the deal but was I confused.

Randy- I should pack up the lights tonight and ship them out tomorrow.

West-by the way I did give him the good guy discount <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">West-by the way I did give him the good guy discount <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> </div></div>

I'd say that based on a "junk" set that just sold on eBay, your asking price was the "good seller" discount.

I'm beginning to question the actual sale price on some of those Packard eBay sales??? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> Many of them are just not making any sense whatsoever. I was hoping to buy a front license plate bracket for 1927-1931 from an eBay auction, and it was bid up to about $350! What was THAT all about??

Later, I bought from a private seller for $40.

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Guest Albert

yes you do have to be careful with that e-bay thing, somtimes the prices can get nuts. I bid on a Mustang for my son to work on for when he gets his license, drove 11 hours to get there, to find out the vin# is off another mustang, does not match the car, so we figure it was not worth the BS.. and left it there..

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">West-by the way I did give him the good guy discount <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> </div></div>

I'd say that based on a "junk" set that just sold on eBay, your asking price was the "good seller" discount.

I'm beginning to question the actual sale price on some of those Packard eBay sales??? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> Many of them are just not making any sense whatsoever. I was hoping to buy a front license plate bracket for 1927-1931 from an eBay auction, and it was bid up to about $350! What was THAT all about??

Later, I bought from a private seller for $40. </div></div>

Yes, I saw some things like a keyed coil going for $600...however if you need it and can't find it, I guess you are willing to pay it. I try not to get to wrapped up in the bidding and be level headed. I did spend more than I wanted on a set of side mount covers,but I couldn't find them anyplace.

I think Randy got a pretty good deal and I'd like to make sure they go to a good cause...beter not see them on Ebay <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Randy-I will package them up tonight and ship them hopefully tomorrow.

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">West!!! Shhhhhhhh.........wait until he ships them.........you're kill'in me here!

Randy "Dying in NC" Stone </div></div>

Randy - the price I quoted you was per light <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> Did you want to buy the other one <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">West!!! Shhhhhhhh.........wait until he ships them.........you're kill'in me here!

Randy "Dying in NC" Stone </div></div>

Sorry, Randy, but your post said "I got the lights." I assumed that meant that you, "got the lights." <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

I'd go ahead and buy the second light. It looks kind of funny, IMHO, to use just one. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

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Guest BillP

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Congratulations on getting a 34 Packard 1100, I looked this car over very carefully at Hershey as I've owned a 34 1100 for more than 40 years now, though mine is primarily unrestored and a driver. Yes, the window garnish moldings are grained metal, in fact the only genuine wood trim inside the car are the rear seat ash tray surrounds. I'll drop in a picture of my 1100 if I can figure out how. Also, I'd be glad to help with any questions on the 1100. </div></div>

I always figured, only by looking at it and not getting close, that the big piece atop the front seat back was wood, and what about the dash board? I gotta study these pieces better. And does yours have clip-on or post-style outside RV mirrors?

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yes, I saw some things like a keyed coil going for $600...however if you need it and can't find it,</div></div>

I bid on that one too! But Rick (Speedster) told me they're not worth the trouble and expense, and at $600, I believe him on that one.

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yes, I saw some things like a keyed coil going for $600...however if you need it and can't find it,</div></div>

I bid on that one too! But Rick (Speedster) told me they're not worth the trouble and expense, and at $600, I believe him on that one. </div></div>

I bought a NORS one for $60 on Ebay just recently without the key mechanism. I was going to try to use that. Or should I just keep my current setup and use a known good 6V offthe sheve coil and hide it behind the dash and jsut use the keyed coil for switching the 6 V.

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But if you're obsessive compulsive (like I can be at times when it comes to old cars) just knowing that the wrong coil was lurking up under the dash would bother you. I was surprised at the high bid, last one I sold brought $150 or so. I have a spare that I was going to sell but now I think I'll hold on to it as an investment for my retirement. Anyone else notice the un-rebuilt '31-'32 fuel pump that just went for $787? What is the world coming to?

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I usually like to restore things back to exactly how they were originally designed/engineered. If you've got the right stuff, and can make it work... go for it.

My comment was in regards to making a decision as to weather it was worth spending $600 on something that is basically hidden (unless a judge looks under there, which he should), for a car that has already gone through the show circuit. Even for a "driver," I prefer to have things "right" if possible. It's just more fun IMO to know that it hasn't been modernized, but I can live with a coil hidden behind the dash. I'm sure there are some really creative ways to make it look like there is a coil behind the switch, even if it's not...

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">But if you're obsessive compulsive (like I can be at times when it comes to old cars) just knowing that the wrong coil was lurking up under the dash would bother you. I was surprised at the high bid, last one I sold brought $150 or so. I have a spare that I was going to sell but now I think I'll hold on to it as an investment for my retirement. Anyone else notice the un-rebuilt '31-'32 fuel pump that just went for $787? What is the world coming to? </div></div>

A second one went for $500 a few weeks ago so the prices are falling. I'll buy it from you for $100 as the market is tanking <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" />

But how reliable will that old coil be? That's my issue. Classics and Exotics were rebuliding them, but ran into a supply issue. They were going to start up again once they go their supply issue resolved. That may be the best solution.

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I usually like to restore things back to exactly how they were originally designed/engineered. If you've got the right stuff, and can make it work... go for it.

My comment was in regards to making a decision as to weather it was worth spending $600 on something that is basically hidden (unless a judge looks under there, which he should), for a car that has already gone through the show circuit. Even for a "driver," I prefer to have things "right" if possible. It's just more fun IMO to know that it hasn't been modernized, but I can live with a coil hidden behind the dash. I'm sure there are some really creative ways to make it look like there is a coil behind the switch, even if it's not... </div></div>

My coil is still behind the dash. I just use the old coil terminals to switch the 6V. The switched 6Vs goes to the aftermarket coil. I sensitive to old coils as I had to be towed three times last year over a 2 week period because of a coil that was failing after driving for a while.

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">West!!! Shhhhhhhh.........wait until he ships them.........you're kill'in me here!

Randy "Dying in NC" Stone </div></div>

Sorry, Randy, but your post said "I got the lights." I assumed that meant that you, "got the lights." <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

I'd go ahead and buy the second light. It looks kind of funny, IMHO, to use just one. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> </div></div>

West-did you also want the brackets? Those lights will look funny just duct taped to the bumper <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

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I call that "Arkansas Chrome"! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

It can also be cut up into strips and used for pin striping.

Jeff, I'll top Ken's bid of $100 and will pay $150 for that coil. Even though the market for it is "tanking," like you, I'd prefer having the original-type coil on the car. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

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