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METALIZING


Guest antiquepa

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Guest antiquepa

DOES ANYONE OUT THERE KNOW OF SOMEONE THAT DOES MEDALIZING. I HAVE BRAKE DRUMS ON A 28 CHRYSLER THAT NEED TURNED BUT I BELIVE ARE TO THIN, THEY NEED TO BE MEDALIZED, AND THEN TURNED. {MEDALIZED IS A BUILD UP OF SURFACE } THATS WHAT IVE BEEN TOLD.

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I deal with a company in Anaheim that does metallizing. They call it Flame spray Metallizing. It is a sandblasting company, and they will, for an extra charge, metallize the metal after sandblasting to prevent rust. When I was there they were sandblasting and metallizing gates and fences. after metallizing the gates, the gate manufacturers take them back to their shop and paint them. they say the paint and metal will last at least ten years with this proccess.

I had them sandblast a fuel tank from an old Oldsmobile. When they finished, there were some thin spots on the top of the tank where the rust went a little too deep, so he sprayed metal on the top only, to build it up a little.

The proccess looks like he was painting with a spray gun, only the gun was really a torch with a zinc wire feed passing through the flame/gun so he was really spraying liquid zinc on the product. I hope that explanation makes sense. I have no idea if he can build up as much medal as you will need for your purpose, or if they can spray metal other than zinc.

I don't know where you are located, and there maybe someone closer to you. Perhaps another sandblaster in your area could do the same thing. In case you can't find anyone in your area, give my guy a call and see if he can help you.

His company name is Gomez sandblasting in anaheim California. Number is (714) 666-1463.

Good luck.......

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I've seen the process done to build up scored shafts. It involved a special torch and powdered metal feed stock. I'm not sure how it would work for the wear surface of a brake drum, cast iron substrate, warpage, getting materal into the corners, etc. etc. Sounds interesting though. Let us know all the details if you try it.........Bob.

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Although I doubt if any firm will carry out this job on brake drums, I wouldn't think of it my self in a million years. A safety item of this caliber,I'm getting cold only thinking about it.

Allow me to suggest you find your self some fine used ones, or better still have new ones casted. This to be on the safe side yourself, as well as safety in general.

Do not want to be offensive, but I do think it's a very bad idea towards brake drums.

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10 years or so ago we restored a 1921 Kissel Gold Bug Speedster. The brake drums (external contracting) were worn so thin you could actually flex them with your hand. These were steel rather than cast. We had them spray welded with stainless steel and added about 5/16" material to them, then lathed them back to the original 1/4" thickness and they are still on the car and performing flawlessly. Yes I know stainless isn't a good conductor of heat but it's the only material we could get sprayed on to that thickness. I was very satisfied with the results and had no concerns about the safety factor. Cast iron might be different.

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Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek

Joe, I like your thinkin'. Next time you want to press something like that, chill your sleeves in rubbing alcohol and dry ice. The alcohol transfers all the cold without freezing itself. It would have given you a little more time to operate. One time after useing this method I spit my chewing gum in the alcohol. It was only about 5-10 seconds until I could hear it shatter.

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Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek

I was able to turn the sleeves at work last saturday; there was a

rush pump repair job, so the shop was open for a few hours..

Rule of thumb (after 3 or 4 inches) is to add about .001 to every

inch on diameter for a severe press fit..

They generally use liquid nitrogen for installing internal sleeves

at work so they don't have to do any heating. Once the immersed

sleeve stops "boiling", it is ready for installation.

It works pretty 'cool',

Thanks,

Joe grin.gif

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