Guest Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 A question arose on another forum about the use of anti-seize compound on a tapered axle during a beariing service. One opinion holds that a small amount will prevent corrosion and make removal easier. the other opinion is that the tapered hub and axle shaft friction fit and any grease would cause the axle to turn on the hub and possibly destroy the key. Would a small coating of anti-seize be sufficient to cause the taper fit to turn on an axle with correct torque applied to the nut? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Stllrng. Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 As a rule, I don't recommend putting anything on a taper. It is meant to be put together dry, and that is how I would put it back. We see the tapers used a lot in heavy equipment and it is always a dry fit. Do not try and drive the horsepower through the key. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Layden B Posted November 5, 2005 Share Posted November 5, 2005 I am in the other camp! A small amount of anti-seize or grease is necessary to be sure the taper does not rust. It was an old time trick to get tapered axles to stick on hard after they had been worn badly (usually caused by a loose nut) by putting some water and iron filings on a clean taper before assembly, they stuck so hard it sometimes was impossible to disassemble! A small amount of anti-seize will not defeat the taper fit provided the two parts fit well and the nut is drawn tight. Even with lube a properly fitted taper should require a puller to remove the hub. The key is a backup, the taper should be pulled tight enough with the nut that the hub and axle lock together with no relative motion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johan Boltendal Posted November 5, 2005 Share Posted November 5, 2005 What I've been trained on tapered fixing under load,is a dry fit,what I would suggest nowadays is a visit to your Loctite dealer. No doubt there will be a solution for extreme load and easy disassembling, within one of their products.I strongly advise against grease or anti seizure, I've seen to many broken keys and disaster on axles and shafts.To refit damaged ones with the trick Layden B gives will do.These not comming apart afterwards is no issue, grind them off,were junk back then, Johan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted November 5, 2005 Share Posted November 5, 2005 I would agree with Stllrng. First read the manual for the application and follow the instructions. Although I'm big fan of never sieze, it is not to be used on a taper. The lubrication will give a false torque reading, making the nut much tighter then designed to be, causeing possible breaking of the hub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1937hd45 Posted November 5, 2005 Share Posted November 5, 2005 I'd remove the key and lap the hub and axle with valve grinding compound.so that there was full contact with the taper. Clean off all the compound and use the proper Loctight product and proper torque on the nut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 5, 2005 Share Posted November 5, 2005 Thanks for all the advice. Now I am wondering which Loctite product you are refering to. Are you suggesting putting a threadlocker such as Loctite Red on the shaft or on the threads of the nut leaving the shaft dry? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johan Boltendal Posted November 6, 2005 Share Posted November 6, 2005 Perhaps you best write them an email or visit the store and tell them what you need,because new material and new applications are found at a regular basis. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest stude8 Posted November 7, 2005 Share Posted November 7, 2005 Another fault you can discover with anti sieze compound or lube on a taper is when torqued to the "Seemingly" correct torque a nut can actually drive the hub further "Up" the taper and produced stress that may in time eventually crack the hub under some road traction event like a rough railroad crossing or pot hole while under acceleration. Only assemble taper hubs dry, get a good puller to remove them. Stude8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1913Moline Posted November 9, 2005 Share Posted November 9, 2005 I seriously doubt that you will find the recommendation in any service manual for engines or other mechanical components with tapered joints that lubricant, loctite or anti sieze should be used. (I am thinking of tapered joints on flywheels of engines and generator rotors). I think that 37HD45 has a very good suggestion that the joint be cleaned with lapping compound to remove any score marks or past fretting material. Once complete, torque the clean joint up and leave it.One thing to watch is that the key does not bottom out in the mating parts!! There should always be clearance at the top of the key, or the taper wont mate properly. As a general mechanical design rule- keys should be used for locating, not for driving, but there are some exceptions.Good Luck,Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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