oldwhizzer Posted October 20, 2005 Share Posted October 20, 2005 Looking for Help on rebuilding water pump on 1924 Dodge. Thanks pk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pepstrebeck Posted October 21, 2005 Share Posted October 21, 2005 I would reccomend a shop in Wyoming, Michigan called Steves Antique Auto Repair, 1-616-538-0441. They rebuilt the pump for my 29 DA and they did a fantastic job. They will rebuild it as original, or make it leakless.After asking this same question and receiving a reccomendation for a different shop from a couple of people, I sent my pump out to be rebuilt, big mistake. The "highly reccomended" individual I had sent my pump to for rebuilding did more damage to the pump than good. Needless to say this individual broke the pulley for my pump, sent me back a different pump with another broken pulley with a note saying "I broke your pulley". No explaination, nothing, and to top it off the pump leaked through the oilers that he had put in. The work done by this individual was, at best, the work of a hack. If you can't say anything nice don't say anything at all; That is why I won't reccomend this shop, nor list their name. Good luck with your pump, and take my reccomendation with a grain of salt, Pep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jan Arnett Posted October 24, 2005 Share Posted October 24, 2005 When you say rebuild it what is the problem. Does it just leak or need a new shaft. Have you tried to repack it if leaking is a problem. If the shaft is scored you can get a new shaft and do the work yourself. Do you belong to the Dodge Club.Jan <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldwhizzer Posted October 24, 2005 Author Share Posted October 24, 2005 Leaks water as fast as you pour it in rad! Yes I have just joined DB Club but do not know anyone. Looking for other members who have rebuilt water pump so I don't screw it up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jules Posted November 21, 2005 Share Posted November 21, 2005 I rebuilt the water pump for my 1924 Dodge using the best bits from several olds ones. The only part I had made was the shaft. I can supply measurements for the replacement shaft so you can have one made or make one to match and send it over. Alternativly I have a friend with a stock of already rebuilt water pumps that I could have sent over for you. P.S. I'm in Australia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest occrj Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 I may have to remove the water pump on my '25, if I can't get it to stop leaking. Are there any tricks I should know about?thanks, Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyAus Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 Rebuilding a Dodge water pump is not rocket science. The main cause of leaks is wear and rust on the shaft - which will chew up any attempt to replace the packing. Step one is to mark the distributor and pump shaft yokes and remove the assembly from the engine. Remove the bolts holding the pump cover so you can inspect the condition of the shaft at the points where the packing bears. Undo the packing nuts and check the condition of the glands which bear on the packing. There is a fair chance that the shaft will be u/s and the the glands might be rusted. Do not attempt further dissembly at this stageStep two is to approach Myers for a new shaft and packing. They also have new glands - or you can turn up your own. Carefully note the positions of each part as you dissemble the pump. Starting at the front, the fan belt pulley is held on the shaft by a peened over pin which must be driven out (if the pulley is a sloppy fit or the hub is loose Myers have them too). Unbolt the timing case cover and pull off the timing gear which is located by a woodruff key. If tight, remove the gear with a puller - do not attempt to use a press as you will most likely crack the cover. Pull the shaft from the pump body and note the direction of the impeller (from memory, open face to the rear). This is most important, otherwise your pump could run backwards. The impellor is pinned to the shaft and removal of said pin may test your patience. Start by applying copious quantities of WD40 or similar and carefully tapping the pin backwards and forwards. A little heat may also help. The last job is to remove to distributor drive yoke pinned to the end of the shaft.Reassemble in the same order, inserting the new packing in front of each gland against the pump body - not between the nut and gland. When refitting the assembly to the engine make sure the timing marks on the drive gears and the previously marked distributor yokes line up.Hope this helps.Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 Tony covered it well. If you are located in the U.S., ordering up a new shaft and glands is easy. If shipping charges are high for your location it may be less expensive to have a local machine shop make these parts as they're pretty simple shapes. I was able to do my '25 pump without much difficulty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest occrj Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 Very interesting thanks. I assume that the pump and shaft are removed from the car as one (it has mag ignition) rather than just the pump? Does this entail dismantling work inside the casing at the front of the engine, ie where the shaft gets the drive from?thanks, R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyAus Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 No tricky bits at the front end. Just remove your magneto (four cap screws under, two yoke bolts), cap screws holding water pump and timing gear cover to block. Timing is re-established by aligning the dotted tooth on the camshaft gear between the two dots on the water pump/magneto shaft gear. Of course, you would have marked the magneto yokes before starting the process. If not, you can only be 180 degrees out and if the car does not start that is probably the problem! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beetles Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 One thing to remember if you are having a new shaft made is to BE SURE the position of keyways matches EXACTLY the old ones or your timing will be out and shifting things 180deg wont help much.Beetles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 Good point! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.White Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 Hi Richard. I have a slightly different pump to yours but it's basically the same. If you read my posts it was something of a saga! The pump had been bypassed. The shaft had been fabricated from two parts and is badly worn; there were various parts missing and the internal flange had rusted out. Also, the woodruff key was very sloppy in the distributor drive gear giving a lot of backlash and the impeller was mangled; etc. etc. I managed to repair it all and it no longer leaks but I will probably need a better pump or at least a good core to rebuild eventually. No point in throwing good money after bad. The heavier casting on the '26 will make shipping to the U.K expensive; that is if I can find a good pump at all. I'm in no hurry to do mine again but if I can be of help with yours, please let me know.Ray Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
platt-deutsch Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 You mention a Magneto on the 24.. what years used a Magneto? I have acess to a 24 and it has a Distributor.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyAus Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 A magneto was used on domestic models 1915-16 and coil ignition thereafter. However, most export models had magneto ignition up until 1926. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest occrj Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 Some great information, thanks for sharing, and thanks to Ray for the offer of help. I hadn't realised that it was only the export Dodge Fours of the early/mid 1920s that had mag ignition.RJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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