WillBilly53 Posted June 3, 2002 Share Posted June 3, 2002 hello all!<BR>i'm trying to remove the dash from my '53 and someone earlier said i need to remove the steering wheel. There is nothing in my shop manual that covers this. can someone please help me? i've removed the two long bolts holding the brace down towards the dash but that's all. and i can't seem to figure out how to remove the dash either. i removed a couple of bolts under the radio but that's all.<P>please help!<P><BR>thanks!<P>-will e. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 3, 2002 Share Posted June 3, 2002 i'm no Buick expert but, in general to remove the dash it should NOT be necessay to remove the steering wheel. The steering COLUMN YES. The steering column (sometimes refered to a mast jacket(check manual)) should be removeable with steering wheel in tact unless there is some special weird thing about that year of Buick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 3, 2002 Share Posted June 3, 2002 On my '56 and '57 Chevy, the wheel does indeed have to come off to remove the mast jacket off the steering column rod. It looks like it would on my '54, too. (the shaft is permanently attached to the steering box). The mast will drop a bit from the bottom of the dash board for access.<BR>If the '53 is like my '54, you should be able to gently pry the horn button off the center of the steering wheel with a SMALL screwdriver. Then there is a large nut under there that removes. Pull the guts out of the steering wheel hub, and you will see three threaded holes in the hub of the wheel. At this point, you'll need a steering wheel puller. Sears sells them innexpensively, and you can rent them from rental centers. I look for any excuse to buy a tool.<BR>As for getting the dashboard out, I had a horrible time on my '54 when replacing the radio--the shop manaul had nothing as you've said: A vintage Motors Repair Manual had step-by-step instructions, and was priceless. Don't get the Motor's Flat Rate Manual--useless. Get the Repair Manual. I've also got a vintage Chiltons that covers the car, but it was no help--the Motor's is much, much better. The last time I checked, <A HREF="http://www.dalewilch.com" TARGET=_blank>www.dalewilch.com</A> had a perfect one for $40 and it was in excellent shape. Not a bad price, but you can often find them cheaper at swap meets.<BR>Finally, I found the top panel of my dash ('54) unbolts from below the front edge and under the windshield trim moldings, and lifts out. The face is welded to the body. Check under the front lip on yours to see if it's the same.<BR>Hope this wasn't too long. Good luck!<BR>-Brad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillBilly53 Posted June 4, 2002 Author Share Posted June 4, 2002 thanks packard and brad.<BR>is this what i should get?: <A HREF="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1833105070&r=0&t=0" TARGET=_blank>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1833105070&r=0&t=0</A> <P>i'm still confused on removing the wheel. there doesn't seem to be anywhere where i can "pry" under the horn button. i've removed the molding around the windshield and there were about 8 big screws at the bottom. (where the dash meets the windshield) and i removed 5, and (dang it) rounded out 3. do these have anything to do with removing the dash? <P>this is what my interior looks like. well at least will look like someday. see the horn button?<P>i can't figure it out,<P>thanks,<BR>will e. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillBilly53 Posted June 4, 2002 Author Share Posted June 4, 2002 yeah, that's exactly how mine is. <BR>okay two more questions<BR>where do i get a puller <BR>and what is a dead blow hammer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted June 5, 2002 Share Posted June 5, 2002 Willy,<BR>You can usually rent a puller from an auto parts store if you dont want to buy one from them. I have one and use it enough to warrent buying one.<BR>A dead blow hammer absorbs the blow when you hit something. No bounce, no vibrations. Ever since I found that I have quit using regular hammers.<BR>I want to know why you are taking the dash out ? Cant you just paint it in place ? Would seem to be a lot easier and the paint will match that way.<BR>Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillBilly53 Posted June 5, 2002 Author Share Posted June 5, 2002 thanks bill,<BR>well the thing is, the dash has some surface rust on the outside and on the back side there is a bunch of dirt and rust. and i just want to get rid of all that. there is a LOT of rust on this car and i don't want to take any short cuts and have it come back bubbling up or whatever. there's also a couple of rust-throughs that i'm gonna need to repair on the bottom that i guess i could get to with it in place, but i was thinking it might be easiser to repair (weld) with it out so i'm not on my back looking up and welding over my head. i don't know what do you guys think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 53and61 Posted June 5, 2002 Share Posted June 5, 2002 On my '53 there is no horn button. You toot by pressing the concentric chrome rim that lies between the periphery and center of the steering wheel. There is a chrome/plastic red-white-blue emblem in the center that pops off. You can remove the emblem by prying with a screwdriver, but this may damage the plating; you might try tapping a plastic knife into the gap under the emblem. My steering wheel was extremely difficult to get off. Use a good puller rather than a cheap one, loosen but don't remove the center nut, and with the puller under tension, tap its center bolt with a dead-blow hammer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brad54 Posted June 5, 2002 Share Posted June 5, 2002 You can buy a good steering wheel puller from Sears, and it's not a ton of money. Probably worth the hassle to make one trip and buy it, rather than make a trip to rent it, be locked into using and being done with it that same day, then making a trip to return it.<BR>I didn't think about it, but the other guy was right: back the nut off the shaft to loosen it, but leave the nut in place over the end of the shaft's threads so they don't get screwed up. But be careful with the dead-blow hammer: I mushroomed the threads on the shaft of my '56 (with the nut in place) when I was 17, and it made the steering column unusable. Don't beat on it--just a few good raps, and some penetrating oil.<BR>Lotsa luck,<BR>-Brad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 53and61 Posted June 5, 2002 Share Posted June 5, 2002 I sympathize with Willbilly's concerns about the dash rust. Mine had an amazing amout of rust on the underside, I suspect from water that had leaked through the windshield gasket. I made repairs without removing the dash, but if the rust had been much worse, I'd have leaned toward removing the dash if possible. Or you could gain better access to the top of the dash by removing the windshield, if you have the guts to take this risk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 12, 2002 Share Posted June 12, 2002 If anyone is interested, I am getting ready to completley dismantle a 1953 Super 4 dr, minus the engine and tranny, the tranny is on the back seat. If you are interested in my problems and new knowledge, send your e-mail and question and I will put you on file and answer your question. We'll all learn together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 12, 2002 Share Posted June 12, 2002 instead of pulling the steering wheel can he just loosen the steering gear at the fram so the whole mast jacket can be tipped up or dropped down a little with the toe plate removed from the floor board?????? Maybe removing the wheel is easier??????<P>U can buy the steering wheel removal tool if u want to. BUT, there is another way to get it off altho it is kind of a striped apron method:<P>Remove the horn button (on some cars u can press down on it and turn it one way or the other to disengage the retaining dogs). Loosen the nut so that it is flush with the top of the threads. Heres the ugly part: get about a 2# hammer AND a piece of hard wood or brass drift. Crawl up in the drivers seat with your feet on the seat and your knees grasping around or under the steering wheel as if u r trying to pull it off with your knees. NOW, strike the end of the shaft using the brass drift and a hammer while yanking back with your knees. This method DOES work MOST of the time and does not damage anything if done jusiciously.<P>DISCLAIMER: i do prefer the puller tool tho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 12, 2002 Share Posted June 12, 2002 BTW, check the end of the shaft and the steering wheel for index mark alignment. If they dont line up make new marks. That way when u put the wheel back on it wont be cocked one side or the other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomE_1953 Posted June 12, 2002 Share Posted June 12, 2002 Hey Will E.<BR>In regards to the Motor's Repair Manual.<BR>You want to look for the one that has '1957' on the cover or is listed as "22nd Edition".<P>Now the BAD news.... I'm looking for the same one (fellow 1953er) so DON'T bid against me (haha). Make sure when bidding you get a 'clean' book, some are in pretty bad shape or the pages are ripped, marked, etc. Make sure they show a photo and when you win (high-bid) one, print our the ebay pages with photo and when the book arrives make sure it's the same one that was in the photo (no bait-n-switch).<P>Hope this helps you out.<P>FYI - I just drove 'Annie' 1,100 miles round-trip to Minnesota for a family reunion and she was a HUGE hit with my family. My mom just sat out front and stared at her and just couldn't get over how nice she looked and loved riding in her. Not one problem with her on the trip. I attended the MN 'All GM Classic Car Show' and almost got 2nd place by a sliver (a 1951 Buick Super got me, dang). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomE_1953 Posted June 12, 2002 Share Posted June 12, 2002 Will E.<BR>One other thing...<BR>The dash has the 'decal' hounds-tooth pattern on the lower section. What condition is yours in? How are you going to match that? I know it's a decal because I climbed under mine and noticed the pattern overlapped in a few spots from the factory.<P>I just love to read your postings and as the previous post stated,<BR>WE ARE --ALL-- LEARNING WITH YOU.<P>You do realize you will be one of the youngest (or the only 25 year old) "1953 owners" in the country!<BR>Get Naomi running by 2003 and bring her to Flint, MI!!! The clock is ticking..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillBilly53 Posted June 12, 2002 Author Share Posted June 12, 2002 thanks tom, packard and leprouty.<P>okay. i popped off the chrome plated emblem with the red white and blue plastic peice off. there's a big 1 1/4 nut with a hole in it where the horn button is. and it's kind of rusty. the nut, that is. i sprayed some pb blaster on it. i bought a steering wheel remover but i have no clue how this thing works. can someone give me some help. do i loosen the nut first? i bought a 1 1/4 wrench but this thing will NOT budge. plus i'm having to work against myself meaning i'm holding the steering wheel with my right hand and trying to turn to the left with the wrench.<P>thanks!<P>will.<P>p.s. tom, she's gonna be ready, trust me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brad54 Posted June 14, 2002 Share Posted June 14, 2002 to remove the nut: Use a socket, not a wrench. It's bit easier that way, and you get a good "square" bite on the nut. Plus then you can use a breaker bar on the nut--better leverage.<BR>Keep the big wrench, though--If I'm not mistaken, it fits the spindle nuts that keep the hub on. You'll probably be doing those in the future. Plus, like I said, I always look for an excuse to buy a new tool. And you can never buy the wrong tool. It may not work for what you bought it for, but it'll work in the future.<BR>An impact gun would get that nut off in a hurry, and won't damage the threads. (I don't have one either, but they're great)<BR>The puller has to be used with that nut off. After the nut is off, look at the hub of the steering wheel under that cap--you should see two or three holes. These are threaded. Center the long threaded rod of the puller over the shaft you pulled the big nut off of, and thread two bolts down through the puller and into the threaded holes of the steering wheel hub. Get everything snugged up, and start tightening the big threaded shaft of the puller. As it screws down, it will lift the puller off the steering column, and those two bolts will pull the steering wheel with it.<BR>I'm not real good without a picture to write a caption under. <BR>On the Motors Manuals, my 22nd edition covers '52-'59, and is the second in my series. My first covers '35-'53. My Chilton's covers '54-63, next Motors covers '64-70, then '69-76, then '77-'82. It seems like they go back 6 or 7 years from the cover date, so anything between '53 and '59 will work for you.<BR>-Brad<BR>-brad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brad54 Posted June 14, 2002 Share Posted June 14, 2002 By the way, I've paid begween $8-15 for each of my Motor's Manuals, and they're all in mint condition--perfect covers, bindings, no torn or greasy pages, etc. All from swap meets. Was just very picky about getting them. Made a list to keep track of what dates I had covered and took it with me when I'd hit the swaps. If nothing else, building your library is an excellent reason to go to the swap meet if you're don't need any particular parts. It took me one season of swap meets to get them all.<BR>-Brad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillBilly53 Posted February 3, 2003 Author Share Posted February 3, 2003 okay, now i'm back to removing the steering wheel so i can take out the dash.got the big 1 1/4 nut loosened. i see 3 threaded holes (very small)the puller i've got has two bolts, so i can't center the main big black bolt in the shaft, and the other bolts are also much larger than the threads i see?can someone help me?thanks!-will Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted February 3, 2003 Share Posted February 3, 2003 Here's a technique that's never failed me:Loosen the main nut, but leave it attached at the end of the threads (you'll see why in a moment).Grasp the wheel firmly at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions.Pull on the wheel.Have a friend whack the nut a few times with a hammer. I like the dead-blow hammers since they don't mar the surfaces. A few decent whacks and pulls on the wheel should knock it loose. It's never failed me.Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillBilly53 Posted February 4, 2003 Author Share Posted February 4, 2003 okay, my dad's gonna help me. i think he's gonna do the wacking while i do the pulling. (that doesn't look to good written out...)anyways, one last thing, do i need to detatch (i assume) the little horn button poking out of the center shaft and how do i do that?thanks! -will Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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