new owner Posted December 11, 2004 Share Posted December 11, 2004 On my 89 Reatta, I have replaced both front calipers a couple of months ago. All went well until today when I experienced the same problem as before: the passenger front brake drags after a normal stop. It did stop after I stopped for a second and let it cool down. What could cause this and how hard will it be to fix? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted December 11, 2004 Share Posted December 11, 2004 Did you do the brake flush? Replace Hoses? Did you use Cheap rebuilt Calipers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Greg Ross Posted December 11, 2004 Share Posted December 11, 2004 <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Did you use Cheap rebuilt Calipers? </div></div>"cheap rebuilts" otherwise known as remanufactured items! do come with a warranty so you should have that option. There is a possibility the flex line out to the caliper is collapsed/ internally failed. If this is a repeat performance for the same corner of the car I'd suspect the flex line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie1 Posted December 11, 2004 Share Posted December 11, 2004 Had same problem with my 1989 Riviera. Replaced front brake hoses which had one clogged. Bled and flushed system.Problem solved.Charlie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new owner Posted December 11, 2004 Author Share Posted December 11, 2004 Thanks for your help - I got the good ones. Since my first post, I have found that it's my brake pads. My rotor is worn, and I got one to replace it. Here's my question: where can I get replacement bracket mount bolts? The documentation pages say don't re-use them. Any advice? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harry yarnell Posted December 11, 2004 Share Posted December 11, 2004 This is classic brake hose shutdown. The hose to the caliper looks fine, but internally, its collapsed. Will allow pressurized fluid thru as in braking, but won't release it back to the MC, hence the caliper is always applied. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest keller Posted December 19, 2004 Share Posted December 19, 2004 Anyone have a source or partnumber for the hoses for all four corners? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadster90 Posted December 19, 2004 Share Posted December 19, 2004 eehhhh, you might consider buying one of the Teeves manuals being offered on EBay...excellent reading. If you replace the hoses and still have your problem, and you are sure that the calipers are good, you also might want to take into consideration that the master cylinder has dual front cylinders......One cylinder for each front wheel. The rear is single/standard. No matter what your problem, when discovered please post it.Best price on caliper bolts and kits are at your local NAPA.....I got my hoses at Advance (ordered), but check NAPA as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie1 Posted December 19, 2004 Share Posted December 19, 2004 My 1989 Riviera has 5 brake hoses.2 front3 rearCharlie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Greg Ross Posted December 19, 2004 Share Posted December 19, 2004 5 Hoses in total, same on the Reatta. Any Auto Parts Store can pull Part Numbers for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted December 19, 2004 Share Posted December 19, 2004 Section 5E in the Reatta service manual (available online) has a lot more information than in my generic GM TEVES manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawja Posted December 19, 2004 Share Posted December 19, 2004 Although I agree with the diagnosis of collapsed brake line hoses, you should know that a sticking valve within the master cylinder will produce the same symptoms (happened to me). If replacement of the hoses doesn't correct your problem, that's where I'd look next. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie1 Posted December 19, 2004 Share Posted December 19, 2004 On a 1989 vehicle I would replace all 5 hoses as general service. Go from their with your other problems.Charlie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike V Posted December 21, 2004 Share Posted December 21, 2004 I AM HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM......... Here is the list of items I have replaced1) 2 Front brake hoses $25.00 ea2) Complete master (From Prior Reman) $600.00brakes have been power blead and it is still happening it is a intermitant problem I cant find any way to make it do it or stop doing it. If it is hanging and I keep driving "on hwy cant get off" it will eventualy stop draging PLEASE HELP ME Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadster90 Posted December 21, 2004 Share Posted December 21, 2004 I had an almost incurable pulling (which you folks may be describing as dragging) to the right(actually changed lanes when I braked) for months...I replaced everything incuding both front hoses, different pads and calipers 3 times, and finally the cure was a used Teeves from Jim Finn. The Teeves cured 98% of the problem as every once in a gray moon it pulls again....now get this>>>>>>>>> when the problem festers again I find an empty parking lot, put the car in reverse, apply my left foot to the brake with semi-medium pressure and hit the gas with my right and "drag 'em man" for about 100 feet once ... sometimes twice, and I havn't the slightest idea why, but it cures it. Like I typed, it doesn't happen that often now and when it does is not that dramatic .If you feel confident that the Teeves is OK, and you removed any trash from the lines/resivoir, etc, there really isn't much else it could be than a caliper sticking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawja Posted December 21, 2004 Share Posted December 21, 2004 I did experience (twice) malfunctioning valve blocks on a Prior remanufactured master cylinder unit. First one in freshly installed complete master unit, then after much replacement of everything else in the brake system, found the trouble to be in the master's valve block, Prior sent another valve block which also was bad. Finally had them ship another complete unit which has been operating perfectly for the three years it's been in there.Please don't take this as an indictment of Prior's work, they were extremely responsive and apologetic and worked dilligently to assist my mechanic in tracking down the problem, however it cost me a fortune for my mechanic's repeated R&R and trouble-shooting time.I believe that the test for the various actuators within the valve block is covered in the service manual but since I had my mechanic doing the work for me, I am unsure as to the exact proceedure, but it involved getting readings with a multi-meter across the individual actuator valve circuits on the block itself. Perhaps Padgett or someone with more technical expertise can elaborate as I cannot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest wally888 Posted December 21, 2004 Share Posted December 21, 2004 If you have malfunctioning Inlet, Outlet or Main Valve all in the Valve Block, there should be a code set at ALDL! Site below-Brakes-Pictures-ABS Codes, ALDL Readout. Think of the thousands of dollars saved in the past by owners if mechanic knew this! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted December 21, 2004 Share Posted December 21, 2004 There is a special Kent-Moore breakout box J-35592 for the TEVES that appears occasionally on e-Bay but someone else has always wanted it more than I did.There are 125 pages of description and diagnosis in the 88 and 89 (online) FSM, section 5E and 5E1 that have very explicit troubleshooting procedures. Unforturately some involve jumpering pins on the break-out box.My experience is that most problems involve the boost circuit which is much simpler than the ABS circuit and that every Reatta with a Teves should have had at least one accumulator replacement by now. The other bulk of the problems involve the pump relay. I am not including typical brake distribution problems (hoses, calipers, lines, etc).The Teves IMNSHO is a very well designed system hat fills a demand that did not materialize (see "diesel" and small turbocharged engines). It is just "different". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike V Posted December 21, 2004 Share Posted December 21, 2004 I tried nic's trick and it worked have no idea what would cause that but it did....anyone have a idea? the whole teves system is new from prior. I have bought a lot of items from them and never had a problem. the only things that i didn't change are the calipers pads and roters the previous owner said he just did pads and roters on it though. I have no idea what this could be.Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kennyw Posted December 22, 2004 Share Posted December 22, 2004 am from the old school. never had a reason to replace this unit on my Reatta. But I would think this part is the same......plunger into unit from brake pedel. In the old days if this happened after replaceing a master cylinder you would crack a brake line connection. If it still had pressure the plunger was in too deep. You remove the cylinder and turned the plunger back a few turns. This problem might have been going on since the last owner. In any case, cracking the offending brake line will tell you where the problem [is]. No pressure, change the rubber line. Pressure,look in the relief valve assembley ...........ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted December 22, 2004 Share Posted December 22, 2004 Had an XK-150S jag that would do that - drag the passenger front disk. Standing on the brake usually freed it but that was a long time ago (was still a teen). If it is the plunger in the M/C then brace a foot *under* the pedal and pull back hard. If it frees, then the problem is found. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VicW Posted December 22, 2004 Share Posted December 22, 2004 I find the braking in reverse solution interesting. Would this work because the caliper is twisted on the mounts abit or maybe the cylinder has rocked out of alignment? New bushings, grease??The procedure of checking to see if there is pressure holding at the caliper narrows the tests down a collapsing brake line or a malfunctioning valve body. A brakeline will leak back. A valve body will hold pressure.When I first bought the Reatta I had the accumulator problem. I went to the pullit yourself places and got a couple MKIIs from Cadillacs. I found one with the pump out and the resevoir hose jumped to the valve body. I wonder why the front end was crushed?The various vehicles had different length plungers or adjustments for the pedal travel. So it would probably benefit one to do the pedal adjustment procedures when putting a Prior rebuild in. Pulling back on the pedal would definately call for a pedal adjustment.I flushed the fluid and replaced calipers and the accumulator (all bad at the yard)and got a system that was working pretty good.A breakout box would simplify the full testing of a system, but having the right tools just convinces my wife that it is just a toy.I then started having a short cycling of the lights. Half way to work reds and yellows, brakes okay, not the hard pedal. No codes. The pump would pressure up and be okay for a while. Heard some dragging on the passinger side.Tested pressures (Harbor Freight has an affordable pressure kit), measured resistances, energized valves. Nothing tested wrong. Until a near miss caused ("Sum-Beach Somewhere")the ABS to activate. All is well.The Teves system was assembled in a clean room and I believe my trouble was something blocking a solinoid open and bleeding the pressure down.So now I will include the dirt road / ABS test when working on my brakes. I also use the emergency barke alot to keep the rears adjusted. I have had an interesting time learning about the Teves MKII system, but then what are toys for?Near-miss ratio has dropped to almost nothing since running with the fog lights on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kennyw Posted December 22, 2004 Share Posted December 22, 2004 brake line has to be cracked at the master cylinder. Doing it on the other side of a [suspected] bad rubber brake hose will tell you nothing.......in most cases, pulling the brake pedel back will not move the piston past the relief hole. Have had quite a few caliper pistons stick in [their] bore but you say the whole caliper has been replaced......??? k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sahein Posted December 22, 2004 Share Posted December 22, 2004 This is what happened on one of my 89 Riviera's. Ocasionally on a sharp curve the steering felt like it would let loose due to excessive play. For a split second it felt like you were loosing all control and would wind up in the other lane. I searched for worn steering parts but couldn't find any. Changing the steering rack had no effect.I finally found the culprit when the left front brake pads prematurely wore out. The caliper piston dust seal appeared to have let sand in and was the reason for the piston sticking. The problem went away after I put on a new set of front calipers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike V Posted March 17, 2005 Share Posted March 17, 2005 Update I found a abs code for a falty valve in the valve block so called prior and they sent me a new one. Now I have changed the valve block and guess what same thing front brakes drag. I was told could be bad calipers or pads so i changed calipers, pads, and roters and it is still doing it. Found that it does it till I go in reverse and slam the brakes "Makes the ABS come on" then i can drive for a while till i have to repeat again. Any Ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadster90 Posted March 17, 2005 Share Posted March 17, 2005 If all of the components are good....has to be placement / installation. Heck, I replaced everything I think >>> lines, loaded calipers 3 X, Teeves, bleed till I was blind, and still every once in a blue moon the thing shows its ugly face again...braking in reverse cures it immediately. Someone above mentioned positioning and or grease??? Wish someone would figure this thing out........Has Prior a Service Department that could possibly help with troubleshooting ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shelby Posted March 18, 2005 Share Posted March 18, 2005 Did you replace the Hoses? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadster90 Posted March 18, 2005 Share Posted March 18, 2005 Shelby, if you were asking me ...yes. I am sorry, by "lines", I meant hoses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawja Posted March 19, 2005 Share Posted March 19, 2005 Probably wouldn't hurt to check that the valve block is working properly, but perhaps I'm biased based on my prior experience with Teves brakes. (pun unintended)The proper resistance values for the individual valves are listed in the service manual:Main Valve: 2 to 5 OhmsInlet Valves: 5 to 7 OhmsOutlet Valves: 3 to 5 OhmsAny readings outside of the proper values warrant replacing of the valve block, according to the FSM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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