1999 Chevy Suburban fuel pump

[Don Jr.]

O.K. I purchased new stainless steel fuel feed and return lines from Classic tube today. They do not sell the vapor line. I decided not to take a chance on the original ones in the chassis behind the fuel filter that go to the tank. Ahead of the fuel filter look good but had to buy complete lines front to back. And I struck out on getting a new gas filler hose. The one from NAPA has a 45 degree bend in the middle and no way to use it. Are there any other vendors that sell gas filler hoses. Mine is 2 inch diameter and has a 45 degree bend as soon as it leaves the tank then straight to fuel filler assembly. Thanks.

[TAKerry]

No idea if they can help but have you tried Gast tanks dot com?

[Glen Andrews]

Try "Speedwaymotors.com," they have flexible hoses in different diameters and lengths.

[Geno Marzak]

Hi - GM is real strict about thoroughly cleaning the fuel tank prior to pump replacement. A lot of replacement pumps fail prematurely because the tanks were not properly cleaned. I'm a GM tech so I always recommend cleaning the tank out before I install the new pump. There are plenty of good cleaners available and they do a good job. Hope this helps. 

[Frank DuVal]

On 7/8/2024 at 7:07 PM, Don Jr. said:

Are there any other vendors that sell gas filler hoses.

Look at all the pictures on Rock Auto. There are lots of them. Where? ❓

 

Rockauto.com    across the top, click on Tools and Universal Parts       then click on Hoses/Lines and Clamps   then choose Fuel Line/Hose     then choose   Fuel Filler Hose

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/tools/hoses/lines+&+clamps,fuel+line+/+hose,fuel+filler+hose,1001643

 

Might have to buy it longer and cut where needed.

[Don Jr.]

Will do. Still cannot believe the company that specializes in hoses just ignored me. I called twice emailed twice, and asked a question on order form. Not a thing back from them. I can use my original one but would prefer a new one as everything else related is brand new. Thanks will check it out.

[Don Jr.]

And yes I made sure new fuel tank was clean before I installed the new fuel pump module.

[Geno Marzak]

Great job! Nice!

[Don Jr.]

Spent a few hours installing the new fuel lines in their plastic blocks nestled up in the frame. Not a fun job but got all 3 lines in. Have the 3 new lines up to the steel unions under the left rear door.. Had to move left rear shock top out of the way to get to the plastic block right over the rear frame kickup. Just got them all in and the rain came down in buckets. Will get back on it tomorrow and install lines from the union up to the filter in the frame. Getting there. 

[Geno Marzak]

Yeah! Those are not fun at all! Patience goes a long way!

[Don Jr.]

Oh yes I agree. Trying to wiggle stainless steel around is a real chore. And yes you are right patience. I would do 1 clip then go do something else and come back to it. Do not look forward sliding the tank with the big plastic bottom housing up under while trying to connect the fuel hoses to the module( afraid of breaking the pipes off the module, connect up the electrical lines and vapor line while shoving the 2 inch filler hose attached to the tank up over the frame. Everything is on an angle and not straight up. Getting son to help on Saturday doing this. We are changing a clutch on his newly bought 1985 F150 he wants to restore a bit. Yes he has the old car bug.

[Geno Marzak]

I recently did an'08 Chevy K2500. Guy brought it in for fuel line replacement. Of course working for GM dealership we use OEM parts. So these lines come as a 2 pipe assembly ( Pressure and purge line). The bends and curves in these lines go along the left side frame rail past the ABS hydraulic unit and transmission up to the upper left cylinder head bracket. The trick here is to cut the lines at certain point to make installation much easier and installing compression fittings. Plus removing the left front wheel well gives a real good access to the bolted bracket at the upper left cylinder head. Some shops actually remove the transmission and transfer case to install these lines. But the compression fitting method saves a ton of time!

[Don Jr.]

Yikes, that sounds painful. Well today I decided to install the pressure and return line from below the left rear door up to the fuel filter and beginning of the flex lines up to the engine. Pulled the OEM ones out and low and behold the new stainless ones are incorrect at the back where they attach to the rear set of flex lines. Bo t h lines are goofed up about 12 inches in from the ends and are bent opposite of what is needed. Called the company to get these lines replaced so I can complete this job. Got the usual story saying they sent the correct lines and sending photos of mine and their new ones next to each other. Hopefully they can resolve this issue. Will post as I progress.

[Geno Marzak]

Wow! Sorry to hear about your issue. With all due respect to parts guys that's the usual response. Sometimes you have to physically bring the part(s) to them to convince them. The good parts guys/gals will correct it immediately! Others will insist they are right unfortunately! Try giving them the entire VIN. 

[Frank DuVal]

I gave up buying pre-made lines and bought a Mastercool hydraulic flare kit and use Cunifer for the steel lines. There are other flaring tools, Eastwood has a nice bench mounted one.

[Geno Marzak]

Probably the best move for you. With your system you have a return system vs. a returnless system. So that's one additional line you have to deal with. The pressure line and return line and a purge line. So it's hard to do especially with the wrong parts! So I'll bet you'll be relieved when that whole ordeal is over with! Keep me posted. Thanks 😊. 

[Don Jr.]

Hi, Yesterday with the help,of son and a friend we got the fuel tank in. 3 people to get the tank up in it's proper location with out breaking the plastic fuel modules pipes while attaching the lines, attaching the 2 electrical plugs. Had to lift the left side of the tank up leaving the right side down enough to allow me to reach up and connect things. Then slowly jack up the tank into it's saddles front and rear. With the tank bolts just barley in I was able to connect the vapor line up and clamp it. Then it was fun slipping the fuel filler hose up over the left rear frame and guiding it down on the tank spud. Took a few tries but got the hose on with the help of some liquid  glycerine I used on the inside of the hose. Got stuck trying to get the 2 inch hose clamp in place but after a few tries dawned on me to tighten up the tank bolts in more which allowed me more room to slide the clamp over the spud. I decide to stop there for the day on that phase of the job. Awaiting to hear back from fuel line company about the 2 lines that do not match up to my OEM ones.. Sure they are not happy with me but I need the correct bent lines.. Not letting them off the hook for $400.00 worth of lines I cannot use. Hopefully sound installation up to  this point. Spent the rest of the day pulling the clutch assembly out of sons newly acquired 85 Ford F 150 flareside pickup truck. He has the old car bug too guess from me. He bought it as is and when releasing the clutch pedal the truck would shake like hell. Previous owner said he installed a new pressure plate and did not change the disk causing this issue ! I expected a rear main leak on the clutch assembly but after I got things pulled apart, no oil leak from rear main onto clutch, a well worn disk with rivets just starting to touch face of flywheel, pressure plate and not a new pressure plate and a well worn throw out bearing. The disk metal center was a nice dark blue indicating someone rode the clutch really hard. Going to get the flywheel resurfaced as a few quench cracks on surface of face, new clutch pack, new pilot bearing, and service the transmission while it is out. Big job today as son will be decreasing all the parts we pulled, wire brushing nuts and bolts painting crossmember and any part in chassis that you cannot access otherwise. Putting together a parts list to purchase things. Then maybe by end of the week put this all back and test drive it. Yes all the fun of old car restoration. He was exhausted by the end of the day and asked me how I did all this thru the years watching me turn a wrench on many projects. Explained it is that bug you get trying to restore cars. Still remember babysitting him at night in the garage as a toddler while wife went to work. Put him in my vintage V8 60 midget race car with a sippy cup and a cookie happy as a clam while I was wrenching on another antique car I was restoring. He would try to steer and shift in the cockpit. Kept him busy. Have a nice photo of him doing this. Will see if I can find it  and post it . Sorry for the long winded post but am sure the forum has many tales like this they have experienced. Think being a mechanic was a curse! Thanks.

[Geno Marzak]

Congratulations on all of your progress! No doubt that's a lot of work but you're getting there! As far as your son's Ford truck that blue on the flywheel was definitely caused by overheating the clutch! Use caution when having the flywheel machined because the over-heated spots sometimes don't clear up with conventional machining. You might be far better off replacing the flywheel.  Plus I can't understand why the previous owner didn't replace the friction disk along with the pressure plate? Makes no sense at all! Also, hopefully your pilot bushing in the end of your crankshaft is okay along with the input shaft splines on the transmission. Sounds like you guys are doing a great job so keep it up and enjoy! Once again, keep me posted! 

[Frank DuVal]

Hydraulic clutch, right? I change the transmission in my 84 F-150 300 six more than I change clutch discs. 😮 Clutches cheap compared to exchanging manual transmissions at the use vehcile parts emporium.

[Don Jr.]

Yes it is a hydraulic clutch slave unit. And is a 300 cubic inch inline. Will be checking it out also for leaks. Last owner got under the hood and played with all the hoses and plugs trying to by pass the feed back carb and distributor system.. That will be our next task after the clutch job. The flywheel will be going in today to machine shop. Will see what they say about it. An issue has come up on the transmission. Door sticker states one style, the tag riveted to the transmission case states another. So on the site where we are getting info on this, their forum is in a quandary as to what we have. I posted several photos of the transmission to help clear things up as to what we have so we can freshen up the unit. Had the son cleaning and degreasing all the removed parts from the truck.. You know the fun stuff.. All part of this hobby.. He was pretty  dirty yesterday when we got done for the day,, He cleaned up and was working on his homework to complete a bachelor's degree in finance. A real natural at numbers.. Another debacle in the works. On the Suburban I was able to fit my hands up thru the frame to get the gas tank filler hose clamp tight on the neck of the tank. Used a long extension and fished around without seeing things and landed on the worm clamp screw. Got her tight. Got the filler neck in next as that is  a tight squeeze. So essentially complete at that end of the job. Now play the waiting game for company to respond to the 2 incorrect bent lines. And of course I started to wash and clean a 1932 Ford top loader transmission I bought last week all taken apart to inventory things there. Will be mating that to a 1932 Ford Model B engine I am going to use in a vintage 1940's sprint car project. Yes my plate is full but I keep plugging away. No not bored at all. Do not know what I would do with myself if I was not busy. Wife is going in for a torn miniscus on her right knee this week so will be tending her for a spell. Hopefully get a few days of R&R up at our camper set up in the Adirondacks up north while she recovers a bit. I could use a break as well and read on interesting subjects the forum members dig up. Great stuff they find. Will post thing as they progress, Thanks.

[Don Jr.]

O.K. Had to call company that sold me the fuel pressure lines this morning. After about a few minutes I asked if they were willing to send me a return authorization slip to send back the incorrect lines along with my OEM ones. They agreed to do that and make 2 new lines that will fit. Will see how this turns out. Going to investigate someones suggestion of removing the left front tire and pull the wheel house out to gain access to the front flex lines from the engine down to the frame rail where they connect to the unions and fuel filter. Keeping my fingers crossed that these lines are correct. On the 1985 Ford F 150 transmission identification learned it is a Tremec T 170 FT 4 speed and no granny gear. Previous said it had that. When lot driving it in his compound could not get more than 15 feet before we had to stop and it felt like a granny gear. Our fault on identification but now mystery solved and can acquire correct seals for it. So not a bad day today.

[Geno Marzak]

Great news for sure! I'm glad they will send you the correct lines. And like I said earlier removing the left wheel well makes it a lot easier! - Geno

[Don Jr.]

 

I hope so. Having 2 current jobs going at the same time like keeping juggling balls in the air. I still am working on my vintage projects to to keep them going. Trying to perfect a hand brush paint job like was done in the early 1910 era on one car . Getting very close to a good surface. Being coached by a very proficient friend and between us getting better on a few pieces. A 2 man race car that is in the stages of body work finishing then painting, and the 1 man race car still gathering up missing parts to make it complete then restore it.  All this with the usual things we have to do (multitasking) at home keeps me hopping for sure. So I need a bit of luck every now and then. You probably see me on the forums either late at night or at times in the middle of the night as my brain will not shut off trying to figure out my next move on these projects. But as long as I keep plugging away I am happy. You at the forum keep me going and very much appreciate all your input. Guess I was never destined to sit at the mall people watching. Thanks.

[Don Jr.]

Hi, got a call and new correct lines are on their way back. I thanked the vendor for doing this. Will see how new lines fit then tackle the front lines with the suggested approach given in a pervious post. The Ford pickup project is coming along with last parts ordered. Will be another week or 2 before that job or phase gets completed. Have many more things to sort out on it but want it running decently enough to road test it more than a few miles. I believe the carb. feed back system that is in the thing now is shot so modifying it might be the plan. Will research what is involved as  we progress on that phase. Need to look over brakes and suspension to make sure they are operating correctly first,and change fluid which were probably neglected. Did not forget posting photos but every day is busy and sit down time to get them in the computer and send them out a luxury at the moment. Wife had surgery on a knee so I am the house maid for a bit until she heals well enough to move around. Thanks.

[Geno Marzak]

Glad to hear that you are doing well and I hope your wife's surgery went well also!

[Don Jr.]

Hi Yes her surgery went quite well. She is on the mend. Thank you. Here is a photo of the rusty fuel tank. Frst photo is of the hole in the tank. Small pinhole and last photo of new tank coated. It is amazing since I pulled the tank and filled it up with soap and water the damn thing has not leaked a drop. I am going to drain out the water then run the car exhaust thru the tank till she gets hot then it is safe to cut up. I always test it with a lit match on a stick to be sure all fumes are gone. Learned this trick at Ford dealership in the late 1960's from the old time mechanics. So far have been lucky. Not interested in a moon shot with an exploding tank. I respect gasoline! Here are a couple of photos of the Ford clutch rebuild. All pulled parts washed and cleaned. Waiting for a new rear main seal and possibly install a seal saver if crankshaft is grooved. Once those parts are in we can reinstall everything. Truck is surface rusty but solid for an 85 vehicle. And next year starting on my old 1983 Jeep Scrambler. Son bought it back from a friend who bought it 20 years ago. She is rusty and frame shot. He bought a good used frame needing a bit of welding then we will rebuild her from the ground up. I bought it when she was 7 years old so son remembers it on our Boy Scout trips back then. Sold it in 2000 and next owner drove it some then next guy pulled the 4 cylinder out and installed a AMC 304 in it. Drove her in the ground. I barely was able to drive her up on the car trailer. No brakes no clutch with a frame rotted out and missing a big chunk. Yes my plate is full but keep active. I sneak in my own projects as time allows. Like triage ,Thanks.

[Geno Marzak]

Wow! You have a lot to keep you busy for a long time!

[Frank DuVal]

Water molecules are larger than gasoline molecules, so a tank will hold water but leak gasoline through very tiny holes!

 

Fill tank with water (and I mean FILL with no hidden air pockets!!!) and hold the match on a stick over the opening at the top. Gasoline fumes that are there at the opening will light, but since the tank is full of water, no explosion. Soap is good, to remove the residue that may outgas vapors after the tank is drained of water.👍

 

Never hold a match over an uncleaned and empty gasoline tank. Two people made the news in this area in the last 10 years. Fatalities.  They are never empty, always have explosive vapors until you take steps to remove them.

 

Looks similar to my 84 F-150, but mine is rusty red, two wheel drive and smoothside ( or whatever Ford calls them). OK, so the only thing similar is the 300 cu in six and the four speed.🤣  🤣  Even the carburetor is slightly different between 1984 and 1985! And mine needs the carburetor rebuilt currently. I bought one of those cheap Ebay YF carburetors, but have not bothered to bolt it on to see how bad it could perform. How can they even build it and sell it for under $100??? I'm going to open the original up and go through it looking at the passages this time, not a quick dip and kit this time. 

[Don Jr.]

 

 

 

Hi yes on the gas tank operation. I thought the water would come out as a steady stream of water peed out when I first filled the pulled tank. But as you said had to be less viscus than fuel. This morning I drained the tank of water and dawn dish washing liquid. Hooked it up to my trucks exhaust pipe and let the truck run for 30 minutes, pulled the tank as sides were hot. Took a match on a stick from a distance and tested the tank. No back flash so I cut up the tank with my torch. Scrap steel now.

[Don Jr.]

Here is the cut up tank. Like new inside but rusty on the outside. If outside was in better shape I would have saved it but too many rusty thin spots on it.

[bryankazmer]

Water molecules are smaller than most of what’s in a gasoline blend. Consider water , H2O, vs octane, C8H18. Water’s differences are due to its odd polarity due to a dipole

[Don Jr.]

And yes the Ebay YF cheap carb concerns me  too. I need to look further in this set up before I start ripping things out. Wonder if there is a way to make what is there run correctly. There are so many hoses and connectors under the hood I purchased the factory manuals to see first what is connected properly and not . Folks like to just start disconnecting things they are not familiar with in hopes problem will go away. This will be a challenge for sure. Located missing parts from the 1932 Ford transmission I bought sitting on my basement bench.  So in about a week I will pull it down and see what is worn in there probably thrust washers and shafts. Gears look good. I will use Van Pelts for parts as he has  helped me with a 1933 transmission I needed parts for. A real plus to have a guy like him in the hobby you can trust. Need to get back massaging the hood for the 2 man race car I made from 2 different hood. As I have said I am not a body man but being tutored on it by a great friend. He is a master body fabricator. Lucky to have a great mentor.

[Don Jr.]

Here is the 2 man car at Rhinebeck a few years ago. Been on this one 12 years now. Halfway done on body work.

[Don Jr.]

I was able to install the new replacement fuel lines that were shaped wrong today. Was again a chore to get the lines in those plastic blocks that hold the lines apart from each other. Got things up to the fuel filter and had to stop. The new feed line would not screw into the back of the new fuel filter and bottom out. Tried it a few times then grabbed my removed old filter and it did bottom out correctly. So I had to return the new fuel filter to local supply store and get another one. got back home and of course it started to rain and some thunder so guess tomorrow will see if I am out of the woods on this. Keeping my fingers crossed this goes smoothly. Want this job done! Thanks.

[Geno Marzak]

Wow! It's never-ending with the wrong parts! I've been there many times with that! 

[Don Jr.]

Good Morning, Stopped raining so under I went this morning. The new filter screwed right in and fits properly. The other new filter had a rolled internal thread on it. So I proceeded to fit everything in and bolted down. Finished up tightening up the fuel tank straps and done. I will put in about 10 gallons of gas in her later today and see how she runs. I am going to wait on tackling installing the 2 front lines till it gets a bit cooler out. 90+ today. As been said a real bear to install with modification if necessary. So I jumped on the 1985 Ford F150 job. Expecting to struggle pulling the one piece rear main seal it fell right out when I pried with a screw driver! Lots of oil leaking around the outside of the seal and the block. This explains all the mess under there. I am going to use a non hardening sealer on the outside of the new seal when installing it today. Well I am sorry to post dribble on the Suburban but with the forums input I got it skinned and very much appreciate the help.  This job took a month with all the looking for parts and defective parts but is done finally. Picked up the belly pan for the 2 man race car yesterday. It is in primer and ready for paint. Next week I move back to the hood bodywork. Would rather spend my time on my vintage projects. Thanks.

[Don Jr.]

Hi all. No rain today an tested the Suburban job. Wife turned the key while I was under truck looking for leaks. Bone dry. Pump primed up and within about 10 seconds it shut off. wife cranked the motor a few times stopping to give starter a rest. After about 5 tries motor stumbled. She gave it a rest hit the key again and motor came to life. Ran great. So we took truck off stands and gave her a spin around our neighborhood. Boy she purred like a kitten. And you cannot hear the fuel pump at all. I have about 1/4 of a tank in there now so later will fill her up (42 gallons) and pray no leaks from the lines up under there. When you start the truck you here a quick buzz then nothing. So yes to the forum on OEM pump. I think we can close out this job and not bore the forum with this repair. Finishing up the 1985 Ford  F 150 pick up clutch job in the next day. I had a small issue when I installed the clutch cover bolts. 2 looked different than the other 4. I had noticed when cleaning up under the truck while waiting for parts there were 2 oil pan bolts missing. I was going to replace them and lo and behold someone who was playing with the barnyard repair job must have lost 2 bolts so hijacked the 2 oil pan bolts. Who needs all those bolts on an oil pan anyway!! Thought you would like that. Everything is buttoned up and now servicing rear end. When that is complete, she gets a road test. Am sure under the hood is another mess waiting for resurrection to either stock or the accepted modification out there. I am not happy hearing about  a replacement bypass knock off carb. is $100.00 on Amazon.  Dose not ring quality to me. But will see. O.K. Back into the woodwork and silent. Will be checking in on all the great restorations and projects happening here. I may need guidance on my 1921 Dodge Brother restoration soon as I jump back on that project. She was basically a farm truck with many mismatched things on her. So trying to figure out what I have and what I need is indeed a challenge but I want to see her done correctly. Thank you.

[Frank DuVal]

All pressure plate bolts should be the same type/size/mfgr, as balance matters! 😉

 

Put those two back in the oil pan and get a whole new set or try and match weight of two new bolts to remainder on there.

[Don Jr.]

I did. Not trusting prior repairs. Thanks.

[Don Jr.]

Hi, well I finished up clutch job on the Ford pickup and decided to give it a quick road test. Had to start truck on starting fluid but kept running. Got her warmed up and took her out for a quick check of the work we did. That did not last long. Quit running down the street. Had the starting fluid in the cab in case. Engine would surge up and down. Had to Rev it up to keep moving. Got down the block and she shut off. So a quick spray of fluid again and it came to life. Decided road test over. Put it in reverse and backed up all the way back to the driveway. Wife was outside laughing at this. She found humor in this. Pulled the air cleaner and decided to work over the carb. Looked for a tag or identifying data on it. Interestingly I found a tag that says Fred Jones manufacturing Co.,and 008 below it. Well it turns out the carb. is not the factory feedback Carter YFA as it should be but a pre 1985 Carter YFA unit. This is good thing if we are going to get rid of the feedback system.So Fred Jones was  an authorized remanufacturing company for Ford Motor Company. In business from 1919 until 2000. Located in Oklahoma. I found a number  stamped on the throttle plate so decided to chase that number down. No good. It appears that a previous owner swapped out carbs to make truck run better but I need to identify it to get a new rebuild kit for it. After searching on line carb. might be  a 1978-1984 Carter YFA unit. Calling around today to see if I can narrow down what kit I need for rebuild. Oh the fun.