'48 Roadmaster (Dynaflow) rear wheel seal leak, torque tube problem?

[48BuickRoadConv]

Hello,
when I fixed the brakes I noticed that the left side of the rear wheel seal was leaking.
When I removed the differential cover, more than a gallon of oil came out.

From what I have read the reason why there is so much oil is the torque ball?

 

The rear axle seal, maybe also the bearings need to be replaced, but is it enough to buy a 'Torque Ball Sealing Kit' from e.g. CARS (https://oldbuickparts.com/product/torque-ball-kit-6/)?

 

I think someone has tried to fix the problem (see picture)...

[KNUT]

A well know problem. During the years of use, transmission oil seeps through the seals into the torque tube and migrate further into the rear end and finally through the wheel bearing seals and into the brake drums. My suggestion is to drill a tiny hole (3mm) in the torque tube to drain it. If the seeping is not excessive, you might leave it there. 
In the torque ball you have internal seals to prevent this, but age or use takes them. The photo shows one of the seals. 

[JohnD1956]

There may be three seals involved.  

The Torque Ball Seal

The Torque Tube Seal

The Pinion Seal in the rear axle 

 

The torque ball seal should hold back the leak between the torque tube and the back of the transmission.

The torque Tube seal should prevent trans fluid from traveling down the drive shaft ( inside the torque tube )

The pinion seal should stop the transfer of rear axle fluid into the drive shaft inside the torque tube.

 

 

[48BuickRoadConv]

3 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:

There may be three seals involved.  

The Torque Ball Seal

The Torque Tube Seal

The Pinion Seal in the rear axle 

 

The torque ball seal should hold back the leak between the torque tube and the back of the transmission.

The torque Tube seal should prevent trans fluid from traveling down the drive shaft ( inside the torque tube )

The pinion seal should stop the transfer of rear axle fluid into the drive shaft inside the torque tube.

 

 

Thanks John

So, if i order from e.g CARS 'Torque Ball Sealing Kit' and '1940-1955 Buick Pinion Seal', I have those three seals?

[JohnD1956]

 

7 hours ago, 48BuickRoadConv said:

Thanks John

So, if i order from e.g CARS 'Torque Ball Sealing Kit' and '1940-1955 Buick Pinion Seal', I have those three seals?

I believe that is correct.  However, I would ensure that by calling first.  Also check if they have the correct thickness seal for the pinion.  I have heard a friend say the original thickness seal is no longer available and he was sold two seals which need to be stacked at the pinion.  That, of course, causes me to question the best method for the stacking orientation. 

 

[old-tank]

Don't worry about the pinion seal unless you are going to remove and rebuild the rear assembly.  A leak from the pinion seal will have the gear oil level in the torque tube below the driveshaft and will not cause any problem.  To change the pinion seal the whole rear end needs to be removed; the torque tube removed the driveshaft removed; ring gear removed; pinion removed; pinion nut removed...then you can deal with the pinion seal!

[60FlatTop]

It is a job if you decide to get into it.

 

My seals were all good and the short driveshaft section ahead of the pinion was dry as a bone.

 

The reason I got into this was a small squek at low speeds, especially moving through groups of people. I had one bad bearing cup in the rearmost universal.

 

And you can get involved in that "as long as I am there syndrome.

 

The man said "That's a lot of work to go through for a little squeak".

 

75 year old car, huh. Mine is 12 years newer, last torque tube.

[48BuickRoadConv]

60FlatTop:

At this point I'm trying to get it done without replacing anything other than the "torque ball seal kit".

 

I will leave all the bigger things until next winter, we have a long winter here in Finland, then there will be time to fix such things in more detail. Especially since “as long as I am there..."

 

/Timo

[60FlatTop]

I am a bit south, at the 43rd latitude. Our winters are relatively short at only 4 months. I can't remember a big job I ever got done during hibernation. Maybe it has something to do with my blood viscosity in winter months. And I do less each year.

[48BuickRoadConv]

Torque ball seal kit changed, now i try to connect drive shaft. It is quite hard, not succeeded yet..
Any trick how to proceed? I am working alone

 

thanks

Timo

 

[48BuickRoadConv]

ratchet strap was the trick
but now i noticed that bolt holes are not symmetric and i have torque ball wrong way...

[old-tank]

31 minutes ago, 48BuickRoadConv said:

i have torque ball wrong way..

Probably.  Just loosen the bolts (torque ball to transmission) and rotate.  May need a large channel lock or pipe wrench.

[48BuickRoadConv]

Yes, fixed. Now the driving line and brakes should be fine.

Next I try to start the engine, I don't know when it was last running. 
If and big if, it starts after the normal operation of old engines, 
I have to worry about how dynaflow works.. if it works at all

[48BuickRoadConv]

What do you think if I fill the water compartment of the engine, without a radiator, with 4% citric acid and let it sit for a couple of days.
After which do I run the machine to empty with the water pump?

I ask because while repairing the water pump, I noticed that there is a lot of loose rust in the machine.
What could go wrong?

[JohnD1956]

Without being immersed in water, the water pump will not pump. And it is doubtful that the pump action will lift the sediment from the corners of the engine. If you want to drain sediment you may have to remove the core plugs on the side of the motor and then use compressed air to blow high pressure air flow into the rear engine recesses.