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Starting late '30s Chrysler after 18 years in dry storage


classiclines

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Tried searching the forum for previous applicable threads - but not successful - if you can point me to one, all the better...

Info vague on purpose to try not to publicly embarrass anyone potentially accessing this forum.

The Chrysler has a late '30s straight 8 engine.  The previous owner did not start the car for 8 years.  The car was purchased by the current owner without attempting to start it.  The car sat again in storage collecting dust for another 10 years (18 total).  This owner passed away - family has no documentation or notes - no documentation as to any "reason" the car didn't run when current owner purchased it.

Car presents well: good exterior, good interior and clean engine compartment.  Nothing disassembled - looks like it "could" start.  

Potential buyers are hesitant to consider purchase without knowing if engine is stuck - they advise family to get the info - but, family is not car savvy - and they want to sell - so, they're setting out to test.

 

They've been advised to not try and start and run the car - for obvious long term sitting reasons.  They've been told to just see if the engine will turnover.  Family's interpretation of this advice is to get a new battery and trying turning the key to see if the starter will turn the engine - not let it run, but just see if they can hear it turnover.   [Family not inclined or mechanically minded to test turnover in other "manual" ways.]

 

Primary Question: Could this test procedure harm the engine, or as long as it is not allowed to run, is this an "ok" quick check?    

 

If it turns, then buyers have some info, but not a lot.

 

If it doesn't turn, then there's got to be a thread on this forum suggesting the best way to try and unstick the engine and eventually manually turn it to try and free it up.  If you are aware of one of the better links to a similar situation on this forum - great!  Thanks in advance.

 

 

Edited by classiclines
fix typo (see edit history)
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If it was mine I would remove the spark plugs and squirt a little oil into the cylinders. Check the oil dip stick. Generally look over the engine to see if any parts are missing, or anything is obviously amiss. Then try to turn the engine by hand. Either by pulling on the fan or fan belt or with the starting handle (crank) if there is one. Only if will turn over more than one full revolution would I try the starter.

 

Then, I would prefer to remove the oil pan and clean out any sludge and check the oil pump before spinning the engine.

 

This based on messing with old cars for 60 years. I will leave it to the experts if anything else is needed as I am not familiar with this model, I am only speaking generally.

 

For a car this old and valuable it might be worth while to hire a mechanic for a day. If you can find someone familiar with 30s cars.

Edited by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)
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  • classiclines changed the title to Starting late '30s Chrysler after 18 years in dry storage

Thanks Rusty, I edited post to reflect late 30's car.  Best I can tell it has a C19 straight 8, 298.6 cu. in., 3 speed trans. w/ overdrive.  Forgive my ignorance, but if the transmission is not engaged, are you saying it should be possible to pull the fan or fan belt and spin for a full rotation if the engine is not stuck?  If it were my car, I'd get the mechanic for sure :) - essentially I'm trying to advise/assist someone who says they don't need help - hate to see them inadvertently cause any damage.

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If you remove the spark plugs there is no compression and the only resistance is friction. With the trans in neutral  It should be possible to turn the engine over by hand with the crank, or a wrench on the crankshaft. If it is stuck or refuses to turn past a certain point it indicates something is wrong. Early thirties cars all had a hand crank, by the late thirties many did not but some did.

 

If it turns over it should be safe to spin it on the starter. It may not start but it should not hurt anything.

 

But, if it turns by hand, apparently that answers the question. They do not need to waste money on a battery or any further work. By the way a serious buyer will not object to the car not running for all those years. He will come and inspect the car himself, and make a decision, provided the price reflects the unknown condition of the car. In other words a running driving car could be worth thousands more, but could also cost thousands to put back in commission. You can't expect a buyer to spend a lot of money and do a lot of work for nothing.

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On 2/29/2024 at 4:52 PM, classiclines said:

or obvious long term sitting reasons. 

It is the unobvious reasons that will bite you and sometimes not immediately. My nephew is in the same situation with a 1940 Buick Roadmaster he inherited. I am slowly writing guidelines. Hopefully I will write some on the engine this weekend. So far we have been focused on the brakes. I put a priority on them because I think he will want to move it once the engine starts. And if his first thought about brakes was yelling "Whoa!" in terror our planning might fail.

 

I will add some of my input as it develops.

Edited by 60FlatTop (see edit history)
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On 2/29/2024 at 3:51 PM, Rusty_OToole said:

By the way a serious buyer will not object to the car not running for all those years. He will come and inspect the car himself, and make a decision, provided the price reflects the unknown condition of the car

This.  What are the sellers trying to accomplish?  (maximum $$ most likely).  If they were car people they would invest (free) labor and maybe get a higher return.  
But if they have to pay for the knowledge and time of a competent person then guaranteed they will quickly be chasing their tails economically.  
 

I would tell them to stop trying to add value beyond basic cleaning (wash & vacuum) and excellent photos. (Get it out of the dark garage). 
 

Coin collectors always tell people who inherited valuable coins to not try “clean” them because they will DEvalue the coins.  

People who inherit long parked cars should not try to make them run. They have a good chance of damaging them. 

Leave the mechanics alone it is only worth what it is worth in the condition that it is in.  Attempting to change the condition is a huge rabbit hole that they do not want to go into. 

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How sad - well-meaning people who destroy engines  (or give advice on how to bring one back to life)  with perfectly good intentions.   BEFORE attempting to turn the motor over even one revolution, it is ESSENTIAL that the oil pan be removed, to clean out the sludge that WILL be ingested by the oil pump,  ruining the connecting rod and main bearings.

 

How do I know this?  Attached photo suggests I have some familiarity with working on motors damaged by well-meaning others.

PACKARD crankshaft me.jpg

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5 hours ago, m-mman said:

This.  What are the sellers trying to accomplish?  (maximum $$ most likely).  If they were car people they would invest (free) labor and maybe get a higher return.  
But if they have to pay for the knowledge and time of a competent person then guaranteed they will quickly be chasing their tails economically.  
 

I would tell them to stop trying to add value beyond basic cleaning (wash & vacuum) and excellent photos. (Get it out of the dark garage). 
 

Coin collectors always tell people who inherited valuable coins to not try “clean” them because they will DEvalue the coins.  

People who inherit long parked cars should not try to make them run. They have a good chance of damaging them. 

Leave the mechanics alone it is only worth what it is worth in the condition that it is in.  Attempting to change the condition is a huge rabbit hole that they do not want to go into. 

Possibly the best advice in this thread. If you don't know what you are doing, and most people don't, even if they think they know old car - you will do more harm than good and devalue the car the more you work on it. It always makes my heart sink when I see an old car someone tried to fix up, or get going, knowing it will be far more trouble and expense to undo what they did, than if they left it alone.

 

If you want to clean up the car here are some suggestions. Carefully clean the inside with whisk broom and vacuum but be careful, the old material may be delicate. DO NOT throw away any odd bits of metal or rubber that can't be part of a car, they always turn out to be some irreplaceable part. Have a box handy to save any parts, tools etc. You can throw away the old ballpoint pens cigarette packs and McDonalds wrappers.

 

To wash the outside get a big spray bottle and fill it with warm water and a spoonful or 2 of car wash soap. Have a 5 gallon pail of warm water handy and a couple of towels. Spray the car, one panel at a time, with the soap solution and let it soak in. Then wipe off with a wet towel, refolding frequently to expose a fresh surface. The last thing you want is to grind a lot of dirt into the paint. Rinse the towel and when the water gets dirty replace it. You can wash a car this way without even getting the garage floor wet and do no harm to the finish.

 

Give the windows a final polish with newspaper dampened with water that has a little vinegar added. This leaves glass sparkling clean.

 

If you really want to get busy you can polish the chrome with Simichrome Flitz or other good quality chrome polish. DO NOT use Brillo pads or SOS pads no matter what Goober down at the filling station says. If the chrome is rusty try cleaning with copper scrubbing pads and Pledge. This will clean off rust and not scratch the chrome.

Edited by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)
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Also, I'm getting ahead you here, but just in case they do turn the fan (turn clockwise when you are facing the fan), and have a battery hooked up, don't have a remote starter hooked up when you are grabbing the fan.  Even better, disconnect the battery ground cable when you are holding the fan.  On another site, a guy posted a pic of his bloody fingers when he was turning the fan to top dead center and his chest pressed the remote starter button!  The fan on a running engine is a dangerous thing.  If you ever want to start the engine with the radiator removed just to see if it starts, always remove the fan first.  The fan is invisible when turning at a fast idle, and someone could put his hand in there!  

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