1922 Chandler is getting a new paint job! Use the very best modern paint?

[TAKerry]

Body work is extremely tedious at points, hence why a good paint job cost so much. Personally I use an electric (I am a carpenter by trade so I use tools I am familiar with) random orbit sander. I have found from my shop use that the cheap Ryobis from HD are as good as the rest. We go through a couple a year with extended use and have tried them all! With that paint I would start with something like 60 gr and then finer as you get more paint off. I think I hit the bare metal with 220 before I put the epoxy primer on. I use diablo paper, again from hd. Another of those that I have tried many brands and this one works great. All woodworking stuff but it works great on metal too. Not sure why you would want to 'sand blast' (although sand should be the last thing used) after the paint is off? Media blasting is typically used to remove the paint. I would be wary to blast the sheet metal on that car, as the process creates a tremendous amount of heat and can easily warp metal panels. Care must be taken.

[DFeeney]

Now is the time to buy a air DA and air file for block sanding.

[PWN]

I'm using an orbital sander with 80 grit to remove the paint. My paint guy does the sandblasting to remove all traces of rust.

 

He uses lower air pressure and an acute angle 45deg angle and has been doing it for years. Sandblasting creates heat but what warps metal is the peaning and stretching of the metal from the blast media. ...not heat. That is why we sand the paint off...to reduce the sandblasting pressures.

 

 

https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/sandblast-warping-heat-myth.76938/

 

 

Whats Air DA?

 

[29 Chandler]

12 hours ago, PWN said:

I'm using an orbital sander with 80 grit to remove the paint. My paint guy does the sandblasting to remove all traces of rust.

 

He uses lower air pressure and an acute angle 45deg angle and has been doing it for years. Sandblasting creates heat but what warps metal is the peaning and stretching of the metal from the blast media. ...not heat. That is why we sand the paint off...to reduce the sandblasting pressures.

 

 

https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/sandblast-warping-heat-myth.76938/

 

 

Whats Air DA?

 

A DA sander is just the classic "dual action" sander that's been in use for decades. 

 

Peter I think you are on the right track. Your Dispatch will look amazing in red, just has it always has. According to James Lackey's book the standard color for your car would have been twilight grey. I don't think I have every seen one that color. On the cover of the book is a 1922 Dispatch in maroon taken from an original factory brochure. the maroon was the standard color for roadsters. I expect an owner could order their car in an optional color if they wanted. I expect the red color was reserved for the fire chief cars and other special orders. 

 

I am hoping you'll be willing to write up an article or two for our Chandler/Cleveland newsletter we plan to start send out later this fall.

[PWN]

10 hours ago, 29 Chandler said:

A DA sander is just the classic "dual action" sander that's been in use for decades. 

 

Peter I think you are on the right track. Your Dispatch will look amazing in red, just has it always has. According to James Lackey's book the standard color for your car would have been twilight grey. I don't think I have every seen one that color. On the cover of the book is a 1922 Dispatch in maroon taken from an original factory brochure. the maroon was the standard color for roadsters. I expect an owner could order their car in an optional color if they wanted. I expect the red color was reserved for the fire chief cars and other special orders. 

 

I am hoping you'll be willing to write up an article or two for our Chandler/Cleveland newsletter we plan to start send out later this fall.

Yes, most definitely Chris. I'll respond to your thread on the Chandler forum. I have many things to contribute and am excited you are continuing the news letter.

[PWN]

 

Fenders, running gear, etc. done and the tub will be painted this week. Starting to get excited about getting it all back together again. Went with a single stage enamel. My grandfathers 1961 paint job did not hold up well. Lots of rust under the paint, but no real damage.

Edited May 7 by PWN (see edit history)

[13Caddy2]

rust under the paint,probably wasn;'t pr43p3d w2ell--my 2 cents worth--space out your bolts,  you"need more space to get coverage & not have the paint running on the floor---Tom

[PWN]

[29 Chandler]

WOW, what a nice smooth finish with no cracks in the paint. Enjoy that as long as it can last. BTW I am loving seeing the pictures of your car without the body on it. Our cars are so similar and just 5 years apart. Curious what condition your water manifolds on top of the blocks are in. Mine had a copper lining on the inside to try and protect the outer layer. It worked for a while...

[PWN]

14 hours ago, 29 Chandler said:

WOW, what a nice smooth finish with no cracks in the paint. Enjoy that as long as it can last. BTW I am loving seeing the pictures of your car without the body on it. Our cars are so similar and just 5 years apart. Curious what condition your water manifolds on top of the blocks are in. Mine had a copper lining on the inside to try and protect the outer layer. It worked for a while...

They were rusted pretty bad and I had a shop fiberglass them. All good so far.

[pmhowe]

I'm very  favorably impressed by the lack of overspray evident in the area you painted. What gun did you use? It looks like you didn't need to provide a lot of protection to prevent the color red showing up everywhere.

[PWN]

On 5/16/2024 at 8:14 PM, pmhowe said:

I'm very  favorably impressed by the lack of overspray evident in the area you painted. What gun did you use? It looks like you didn't need to provide a lot of protection to prevent the color red showing up everywhere.

I did not paint them myself, but I can get that information for you.