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1966 or 67 Toronado questions


60s GM Fan

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15 hours ago, EmTee said:

I love the color - especially the interior.  F-35 cockpit has nothing on this...

 

20221225_145145.jpg.af111b91ac89307be73e

We can thank the Chevelle community that Bronze vinyl is reproduced. There was a time it wasn't available.

 

The Bronze interior with Autumn Bronze exterior seems to be the most common combination. It was also recommended for white, black, yellow, burgundy and the solid and metallic beige tone exterior colors.

 

I've heard of one Toronado that came thru with bronze interior paired with Nocturne Mist (deep metallic blue) exterior and you can imagine that was a striking combination. It's stunning paired with black exterior too.

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2 hours ago, 60s GM Fan said:

Funny you mention the rear speaker as an option?  I thought a front and rear speaker were standard?  Reason I ask is there doesnt appear to be a fader on the radio.  I'll take a photo of it later after breakfast.

GM never missed an opportunity to charge extra for an option.

 

If the fader ring will turn and switch between front and rear speakers, it's a fader radio. Also see if that ring has FRONT and REAR cast into it.

 

Can't remember if 66 radio knobs were held on with set screws or tension springs.

 

Pull the tuning knob off, then the fader ring. If the fader ring has three prongs the radio is equipped for rear speaker fader. Cars without rear speaker had only two.

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3 hours ago, 60s GM Fan said:

Funny you mention the rear speaker as an option?  I thought a front and rear speaker were standard?  Reason I ask is there doesnt appear to be a fader on the radio.  I'll take a photo of it later after breakfast.

 

The radio itself was an option.  Note the Standard Equipment listed on the LH side of this page from the SPECS booklet. The rear speaker was RPO U80, a $15.80 option.

 

 

1966_Oldsmobile_Dealer_SPECS-12.jpg

Edited by joe_padavano (see edit history)
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I dont see any fader controls so I guess my Toro is a very low optioned Deluxe.  I guess this means I'd need to run a wire to the rear seat and install a 6x9 speaker?  Also how difficult would it be to install a power antenna?  I'd like to upgrade the entertainment system at least.

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5 hours ago, joe_padavano said:

Note the Standard Equipment listed on the LH side of this page from the SPECS booklet.

I find it interesting that one could still order "Heater Delete" (C48) on a Toronado!  :huh:

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1 hour ago, EmTee said:

I find it interesting that one could still order "Heater Delete" (C48) on a Toronado!  :huh:

RPO C48 heater delete was an option through the 1968 model year. The Feds mandated heater and defroster (well, at least defroster) for all cars sold in the US starting with the 1969 model year. C48 was still offered for export cars after 1968.

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1 hour ago, EmTee said:

It's a beautiful car!  I wouldn't be surprised if the rear speaker wire is already there.  Take a look in the trunk behind the speaker grille.  Same may be true for the power antenna wire.

Probably not. Olds had a separate rear speaker harness that included the fader on the radio. The wire ran down the passenger side of the floorpan, whereas the normal harness was on the driver's side.

Edited by joe_padavano (see edit history)
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Built 1st week (A) of November (11) 1965. About 4 months into production.

 

66- 1966

3- Oldsmobile 

9- Toronado 

6- Deluxe (a 4 here indicates Standard)

87- 2d fastback coupe

 

L? probably Lansing Toronado line.

EUC- Euclid OH Fisher plant.

5723- 5723d Olds "E" body produced.

All 66-70 Toronado bodies were produced in Euclid and shipped to Lansing for final assembly.

 

TR 058- Bronze vinyl upholstery

D- Strato-Bench seat

 

Paint- MM Autumn Bronze upper and lower body color

 

E, K and Y are Fisher option codes. I'm going to defer to Joe P on those.

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12 hours ago, rocketraider said:

E, K and Y are Fisher option codes. I'm going to defer to Joe P on those.

 

ACC codes are:

Group 1 E = Tinted Glass

Group 2 K = Air conditioning

Group 5 Y = Deluxe front and rear seat belts

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1 hour ago, 60s GM Fan said:

How so?  Car rides fine and I didnt notice anything wrong.

The bushing on the bottom is not snug against the sway bar end.  The link does not look to have been tightened enough.  My wife's Mercury had a broken link kit.  The ride was just fine.  Except for the clanking noise on a bumpy road that caused me to check on the reason for the clanking.

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43 minutes ago, avgwarhawk said:

The bushing on the bottom is not snug against the sway bar end.  The link does not look to have been tightened enough.  My wife's Mercury had a broken link kit.  The ride was just fine.  Except for the clanking noise on a bumpy road that caused me to check on the reason for the clanking.

If you're talking about this photo, these are urethane bushings on aftermarket end links, which may or may not be the correct bolt length for this application. The factory style bolts are not fully threaded so you can't just "tighten them up" - the nut stops at the end of the threads. I don't know what type of bolts are in these aftermarket links.

 

15F013E5-1020-4804-A577-D5699421D966.jpe

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1 hour ago, rocketraider said:

If the tail lifts off the lift's rear arms, stop right away and regroup.

Good practice for using any chassis lift is to lift the car until the wheels are JUST off the ground, then push on the bumpers to see how well balanced it is.

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Okay it appears that the parking brake cable has disconnected from the pedal.  The retainer ball is still there however I can't seem to get it to reconnect?  Is there a process to getting the cable reconnected to the bracket?

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2 hours ago, 60s GM Fan said:

Okay it appears that the parking brake cable has disconnected from the pedal.  The retainer ball is still there however I can't seem to get it to reconnect?  Is there a process to getting the cable reconnected to the bracket?

You will need to loosen (and probably completely disconnect) the double-nutted front cable from the equalizer under the car to get enough slack to reinstall it in the pedal. Be sure the pedal is all the way up by pulling up on the pedal while pulling the release handle.

 

Ebrake.png.809f147bb4467336c32d69f107250ee4.png

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What is the gauge on the right side of the speedo next to the clock?  Looks like oil pressure is just a light...?  That's a beautiful dashboard and I have always loved that particular steering wheel.

 

20221231_114035.jpg.51a2c82ae54410781ceb

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66-7 had, from left: fuel gage, temperature gage, speedometer, oil pressure warning light, ammeter, clock.

 

68-70 replaced the temp gage with a pair of warning lamps. Red lamp indicated HOT, the 2nd yellow lamp indicated STOP ENGINE. It was triggered by a switch mounted in a special head bolt on the driver side cylinder head, and used a special flasher bulb. In other words, Oldsmobile was making sure you knew your engine was dangerously overheated. This in response to 1966-7 overheating problems.

 

68-70 also lost the ammeter, more as a cost measure than anything, though higher-amperage charging systems were also showing up around that time and there may have been some concern over running high electrical loads thru an ammeter and shunt.

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On the lower level: the far left rotary switch is blower speed  (or Comfortron temperature set dial if equipped) then the HVAC control head. The blankoff plate between the HVAC and shift quadrant is for the Cruise Control speed set dial if equipped. Passenger side houses the radio set.

 

The panels under those incorporate (left side) the main lamp switch, the wiper and washer rocker switches, and cruise control switch if equipped.

 

Right side underneath radio would have switches for rear defog and power antenna if equipped, courtesy lamps and ignition.

 

The knob visible between the steering wheel spokes on passenger side is the Flarestat 4-way flasher. It should technically be mounted under the left side of the dash.

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On 1/6/2023 at 1:33 PM, rocketraider said:

66-7 had, from left: fuel gage, temperature gage, speedometer, oil pressure warning light, ammeter, clock.

Ah - that explains the "C" (Charge).  I couldn't think of what that would mean, since the temp gauge is on the other side of the speedo.  Funny that the Toronado has an oil light, while my Riviera has a gauge.  I wonder why that was; was there a gauge option?

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Not to my knowledge. Who knows why Oldsmobile (and other GM😄) did some of the things they did. I will say you see a lot of 1st-gen Toronado packing aftermarket gages.

 

Always thought it strange that 66-70 Toronado could not have Safety Sentinel speed warning. Riviera used the same rolling dial speedometer and I think the Riv could have it.

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Is it just the Flarestat not working or the turn signals too? Each has its own flasher, stuffed up behind the dash.

 

Flarestat was optional equipment in 1966 and Olds powered it off the constant 12v brown wire to the clock. That wire is fed from the "dome ctsy" cavity at bottom left of the fuse box thru an AGC-30 amp fuse.20230111_175101.jpg

 

The brown wire connects to an L plug at the Flarestat. The FS flasher is on a clip on the lower dash finish panel. Should be very close to the Flarestat knob.

20230111_174929.jpg

 

Here's the instrument panel wiring from the back side.

20230111_175027.jpg

 

Flarestat flasher would be the first thing I'd check, then check the jumper connector plug at the clock. Never hurts to unplug the curved multi wire connectors and make sure they're clean. Some electrical contact cleaner will help, as will coating the connectors with a light coat of dielectric grease or something like SuperLube synthetic grease.

 

I don't think it affects Flarestat operation, but just for grins make sure the lamp in the Flarestat's pull knob is good.

 

If all else fails, remove the Flarestat switch from its mounting bracket and spray some contact cleaner into it around the switch stem.

 

Good luck. I think you're like me in that if an accessory is on the car, you want it to function.

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On 1/14/2023 at 8:11 AM, 60s GM Fan said:

I was actually asked if this was an old Ferrari yesterday...

I'd take that as a compliment!  It's certainly pretty enough to have been designed by someone in Modena or Turin...  ;)

 

It must really stand out in traffic against the background of today's jellybeans, SUVs and lifted 4x4s.  I had a couple stop me while fueling my '67 Riviera last fall.  The woman was especially enthralled and was peering at the interior through the window.  I asked her if she wanted to sit in it and I could hardly get the door open fast enough.  She took a couple of pictures to show her brother.  Each of these E-body cars (Cadillac, Buick & Olds) were really terrific designs.

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Okay silly question.  Both my Toro and Wildcat have high performance engines with plenty of power as well as the switch pitch transmissions.  My question is why does my Wildcat seem more like a bat outta hell than my Toro?  The Toro will accelerate pretty quickly but not nearly as fast as the Wildcat.  Is it a design difference?

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16 minutes ago, 60s GM Fan said:

Okay silly question.  Both my Toro and Wildcat have high performance engines with plenty of power as well as the switch pitch transmissions.  My question is why does my Wildcat seem more like a bat outta hell than my Toro?  The Toro will accelerate pretty quickly but not nearly as fast as the Wildcat.  Is it a design difference?

Final drive ratios differences? The final drive in the Toro is 3.21:1. What is it in the Wildcat? What are the weight differences?

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