36 Series 40 Torque Ball Seal Replacement

[Rock10]

Our torque ball seal is leaking so I started on the replacement today. 

It has not gone well. Many questions.

I've seen other posts saying to drop the entire rear end and pull it back slightly to give the clearance necessary.

I started with the shocks. I remove the nut on the downlink on the passenger side. It was tough, but it came off. Moved to the drivers side and the nut was rounded off. It had been loosened but not removed. The bushings on both sides need replaced. Are these available?

I looked at the shackles to see how to drop the springs. It looks like I have to take them loose from the frame and the spring to get them out, right?

Then the brackets holding the hand brake cable to the frame. Half of those bolts have rounded off.

I'm not sure where to support the frame with jack stands when I lower the rear end. I had them about 10 inches in front of the shackle but when I lowered the jack, the whole car seemed to pivot backwards lowering the rear body.

How much tension is on the leaf springs? Do I lift the housing and remove the shackles or lower it and let it hang?

Thanks

Jeff

[pont35cpe]

Rock, your `36 has 4 live shackles on the rear springs which allows the torque tube assembly to move backwards once the 4 bolts are removed from where the torque tube and tail of the torque ball bolt together.. I don`t recall having to take shocks or emergency cables loose. Mine had the wrong(too short)rubber brake line, which i had to replace. I put mine on jack stands, placed under the frame each side in front of the rear springs front shackles. Took the wheels off and used a floor jack under the center of the rear end, to assist in the swing of the shackles to the rear. The shackles swing in an arc, so you`ll have to lower the jack as you move the r-end backwards, then jack it up as you pass the low spot in the arc moving backwards until the shackle seats to the rear of the swing. Then you`ll have enough room to start on the torque ball. That sloppy rubber piece in the shock arm, i don`t know where you`ll find them, probably have to carve one yourself. I used a rubber piece from a stem type shock(3/8" hole) to make mine. Your shock doesn`t work like it should with that sloppy grommet.  Good luck

[Rock10]

Well that's great news.

I"ll work on that method tomorrow.

Thank you soooo much.

Jeff

[Rock10]

Hey, we got it apart today. Thanks again Pont35cpe.

Now trying to figure out how it goes back together.

The instructions from Bob's talk about a bevel spring that fits against the seal. We don't have one.

I'm going to check the other torque ball threads but they are mostly newer models.

The service manual is useless.

Any help would be appreciated.

[neil morse]

This part was also missing from my '41 when I took the torque ball apart.  Given the improvement in the actual seal and the way it fits, I didn't think the spring was necessary so I left it out when I reassembled it using the kit from Bob's.  It has remained tight and I've had no leaks since doing the rebuild several years ago.

[pont35cpe]

2 hours ago, Rock10 said:

Hey, we got it apart today. Thanks again Pont35cpe.

Now trying to figure out how it goes back together.

The instructions from Bob's talk about a bevel spring that fits against the seal. We don't have one.

I'm going to check the other torque ball threads but they are mostly newer models.

The service manual is useless.

Any help would be appreciated.

Check the 1/2 ball surface for wear,  like heavy scratches where the seal rubs, surface needs to be smooth for new seal. Oh yeah, when reassembly the ball has a certain position. Just forward of the rear flange there is a recess in the casting stating TOP.

Edited September 4, 2022 by pont35cpe (see edit history)

[Rock10]

It has some pits in 2 spots but they aren't where the seal rides.

I'll post some pics tomorrow.

[Rock10]

BTW, I did find the rear shock link bushings at Old Buick Parts.(CARS)

[Rock10]

Here are some pics of the ball and retainer. Some pits on both but not in the main wipe area.

We had the small gasket included in our kit. It fits on the end of the ball where it meets the driveshaft but the holes don't line up. Is there supposed to be a gasket there in 36?

Lastly, saw these marks stamped into the ball flange. Any Idea what they mean?

[Rock10]

[32buick67]

Its possible that they are related to the quality inspection steps for the heat treatment and machining processes.

 

I have found many seemingly random similar symbols, letters and numbers stamped on key parts which would have undergone many manufacturing steps to get to the final assembly stage.

 

Sometimes reworked parts get two stamps of the same style as they repeat parts of the same process.

 

Even more interesting, we rarely get to see what was stamped on rejected and scrap parts...maybe something similar to "blem".

[EmTee]

I would probably fill the pits with something like JB Weld and sand smooth (e.g., 320 wet-or-dry paper).

[Rock10]

I'd be worried in that oil rich environment, the patch would fail.

[EmTee]

I'd use something resistant to oil like this: https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/products/build/epoxies/loctite_epoxy_weldbondingcompound.html

 

[JoelsBuicks]

Would you consider grinding them to reveal fresh metal and then fill with brass?  File to shape?

[EmTee]

The only concern I'd have with brazing is loss of hardness, if the ball is actually hardened.  Maybe solder...?

[Rock10]

Any thoughts on the extra gasket?

[pont35cpe]

My `36 was a basket case, so not sure if there was a gasket where the torque tube and trans connect.  I made a gasket anyways.

[Rock10]

I think we are going to use it. Just have to make new holes.

[Rock10]

Finally got it back together again!

Thanks again to pont35cpe.   for all the advice.

Hope to have it on the road next weekend for the James Dean festival.